Sounds like you have things under control. What I did when I took the ballast resistor out of the loop was use a jumper wire to connect the existing wires so that if I ever wanted or had to go with a ballast again I would have the wires ready to go. I used the same gauge wiring as the FiTech wire for everything including the fuel pump. My reasoning for that was that FiTech probably factored in the possible run to the pump near the gas tank. It seems to work great and the wire is not getting hot. I routed it the same as my fuel level wire.
My fuel system is as follows. Stock tank with 3/8 sending unit. I used 6AN braided hose and fittings for everything. I went from the tank to a 100 micron filter then a Walbro 392 inline pump. From there I ran the hose forward to a 30 micron filter mounted in the engine bay. I then split the lines with one going to each throttle body. On the return side I have twin outlets going to a single line that terminates at the tank just above the sending unit where I installed a weld free bung. Seems to work pretty good so far with no fuel starvation. The Fitech is controlling the pump cycling. I plan to install a safety momentum shutoff switch during the winter to make sure that the pump shuts off if I ever wreck the car.
Jack
