Rims keep bending

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phaelax

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About a month ago, just before the mopar nats, my driver front rim started scraping my caliper. It was bent and twisted, shop said they can't fix the weld racing wheels due to how they're constructed. Bought a new rim from jegs, drove around a few blocks and it's been parked for the past few weeks. Took it out today, the new rim is doing the same thing now! I checked the other side and I have about 2" of clearance from the caliper to the inside of the rim, but on the driver side it's scraping again.

What busted/bent part could be causing my wheel to do this?
 
About a month ago, just before the mopar nats, my driver front rim started scraping my caliper. It was bent and twisted, shop said they can't fix the weld racing wheels due to how they're constructed. Bought a new rim from jegs, drove around a few blocks and it's been parked for the past few weeks. Took it out today, the new rim is doing the same thing now! I checked the other side and I have about 2" of clearance from the caliper to the inside of the rim, but on the driver side it's scraping again.

What busted/bent part could be causing my wheel to do this?
Pics would be good. Of the hub/rotor or whatever set up you have going on. I would think if something was majorly bent or broken you would feel something goofy going on before you got up to speed, or at speed. A wobble, shake or some other goofy steering/bumpsteer issue. I've said it before and it turned into an arguement but some Weld's just don't like potholes and other roadhazards or sideloading.
 
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The ride feels fine, no vibrations or wobbling. But like I said, this is a brand new Weld wheel with less than a dozen miles on it. I'll go try to take a pic.
 
swap wheels left and right and report back...my money is on a busted spindle
 
The ride feels fine, no vibrations or wobbling. But like I said, this is a brand new Weld wheel with less than a dozen miles on it. I'll go try to take a pic.

There's only a few things that would let the wheel hit the caliper. It could be caliper or bracket bolts missing, the wheel bearings are shot, which you would feel, the hub is cracked, the knuckle itself is flexing that much, which I don't seeing happening but stranger things have happened, or the wheel is flexing. A new wheel is not going to be designed any different then the old one. The ones I used, Draglite's and Prostar's don't like 90mph off-ramp sweepers, and buying more won't make the wrong wheel the right one for that job.
 
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swap wheels left and right and report back...my money is on a busted spindle
That's what I just did, wheel spins fine on other side.

I should've noticed this when I replaced the wheel the first time, but honestly I wasn't looking for anything else at the time as I thought the wheel just failed. Even the shop next to me showed me the wheel was warped when he stuck it on the balancer it was clear as day. Figured buy new rim, call it a day.

Notice anything off about the caliper?
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and buying more won't make the wrong wheel the right one for that job.
I didn't want to buy two new wheels that week, and I was trying to get my car to the nationals the following day so I just replaced the bad one. (another issue prevented me from taking it that weekened anyway)
 
That's what I just did, wheel spins fine on other side.

I should've noticed this when I replaced the wheel the first time, but honestly I wasn't looking for anything else at the time as I thought the wheel just failed. Even the shop next to me showed me the wheel was warped when he stuck it on the balancer it was clear as day. Figured buy new rim, call it a day.

Notice anything off about the caliper?
View attachment 1715223705
It's not all the way down.
 
I reseated the caliper and tightened everything back down, it's all lined back up properly. But there seems to be too much play in the caliper. I've never messed with calipers like these before, are those two thin pieces of tin really all that holds that big heavy clunker on there?
 
Yup that is all. Check the two bolts that attach the bracket to the spindle also, should be really tight, if still have play get new hold downs at any auto parts store can order them.
 
There's no way you could 'just reseat the caliper' and all be alright again.
Something is still major 'upped for the caliper to work its way outward like that.
Check the bracket it's mounted too. Check for a missing (large) bolt.
The pins just locate the floating caliper and brake-pads. The bracket carries the brake-load to the spindle, when brakes are applied.

OTOH, I don't see yet how a caliper could bend a wheel like you described, and even when you don't or hear anything 'funny' while driving.
 
I took the bracket off too, so that's back on nice and tight also.

I'm blaming the guys that did my engine swap and supposedly my front suspension. But I've been having more issues with this car since they "fixed" it than ever.
 
Almost looks like he did not seat the caliper right and just slapped the hold down on. Pretty hard to do actually!
 
OTOH, I don't see yet how a caliper could bend a wheel like you described, and even when you don't or hear anything 'funny' while driving.
It's possible the rim bent from something entirely unrelated. The new rim, as far as I can tell, doesn't appear to actually be bent. I kind of assumed it was when I heard it rub the caliper again. But I put it on the other side and it seems fine.

I just ordered new clips, $2 but it'll take a few days.
 
Ok, looked a bit better at the pic you posted, you don't have pin-type calipers so disregard my previous reply about the pins.
 
I can't seem to find just the retainer clip for sale. Classic industries has it with a piston rebuild kit but that's all I've found.
 
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