still having problems, need advice please

iScamp said

Test light is a little easier to work with than meter probe ends. No chance of frying your meter, either.

No, it won't give you a high reading. But, all you're looking for is a bright light.
Probe the battery posts, note the brightness of the light. Probe F1 and F2 and note if the brightness is about the same. Same brightness or so, means the regulator is trying to apply a charge but there is an alternator problem.

Click to expand...

OK iScamp, here's the readings:
battery at start 12.50
F1 (blue wire) 11.11
F2 I get nothing by connecting the F1 and F2 with a test light (tested/working), while running at idle.
ohm reading on F2 was zero (new wires and connectors).

now, I also did a couple other checks. from the regulator base to negative battery terminal at 1500 rpms 4.2, and with a load 8.1
also at 1500 rpms, 13.37 showing from the negative battery terminal to the run side of ballast resistor.
what do you think?
oh, cleaned the ignition switch spades and connectors (best I could under the dash), and I only fixed the 3 wires on the interior side of the bulkhead, as they were pretty clean from my brush cleaning.