1973 340 budget build.
Hey all,
so I have a '73 340 that was gonna get a budget build on but for one reason or another the builder has only got as far as boring it out 20th so I now have it home with me and plan on doing the build myself.
So I have a fresh 20th over block, a Competition Cams 274H Xtreme Energy Cam and matching lifters. ( I still need to get a set of the recommended springs) Its not decked or anything like that.
I had a Mellings High Volume Oil Pump but Im not sure if its fitted or missing as yet.
Although I have the smaller 1.88" Intake Valves 587 heads the engine builder asked me to get stainless 2.02" & 1.60" Valves as I was gonna be getting a set of 2.02" Heads from him but thats now fallen through. Would it make sense to have 2.02" Intakes cut into my 587's? (Im in Scotland by the way)
Anyone have any recommendations on what pistons I should get? Ideally as Ive paid for it to be on a 20th over bore I'd like to keep it there but if I have to go to 30th over then so be it, I already have the 20th over Piston Rings too. Keith Black ones (recommended anyway) The Crank and Con Rods I have been told are in good shape and the crank just needs a polish maybe a light grind. As this is an externally balanced engine Im really unsure how I would go about balancing the rotating assy? Or is there pistons out there that would match the weight of what I already have? Ideally I'd like to bump the CR up to 1970 standards and not keep it on the lame '73 low comp.
I realise this will all cost money but I can break it up into stages to spread the cost. So all suggestions welcome. )
I like these KB slugs for street/street strip duty;
Keith Black KB Performance Piston and Ring Kits KB243KTM-030
I didn’t see them in a .020 overbore size.
Your machinist should ether be able to do the balance job himself or send it out to a place that does this job specifically.
Your machinist, more than likely stopped at .020 because he will want to custom fit each piston to each cylinder hole. This is a must do for forged slugs. My machinist will be super careful and do it with Hyper slugs as well.
Is the car an automatic transmission?
If so, I would certainly without a doubt have the engine balanced internally.
If it is a manual transmission, the flywheel needs to be changed.
A new damper upfront should be on the list of parts to purchase new.
Adding 2.02 valves is fine, though if you do not open the bowls underneath the valve, I’d call it a waste of time and effort. I suggest a porting or the bowl area with the 2.02 valves added.
Once I have a plan in my head, l start from the top of the engine and work down. Finishing the block last. So when the block is done, everything gets put together on it and then I install and run it.
Make a plan and stick to it because changing the plan is expensive as heck!
