Tubular control arms vs rebushing

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72blunblu, the solid tie rods were already on the list before I considered anything else...I hate the sleeves.
IveI pretty much decided against the tube lowers, might still go for the uppers for the caster correction and ease of install. Then I can spend all my effort and patience for the lower bushings
 
Having run both there Rocco, how significant is the handling difference? Is it worth the cost of the upgrade for what would be a daily driver and twice a month 1/4 mile car? Or even for spirited driving on windy back roads?

I could not get decent castor specs out of the stock pieces. When I switched to tube uppers the car handled notably better. Not like a new car, but decent.

When I switch the lowers out it had no noticeable effect on handling, however it knocked some weight off and looked significantly better. I have a show quality car so this was a nice bonus. They come powdercoated and are tubular. They are very streamlined and clean.

when I switched to the AlterKation...WOW. Night and day. Car drives like a band new car off the showroom floor. HUGE improvement on handling.
 
I could not get decent castor specs out of the stock pieces. When I switched to tube uppers the car handled notably better. Not like a new car, but decent.

When I switch the lowers out it had no noticeable effect on handling, however it knocked some weight off and looked significantly better. I have a show quality car so this was a nice bonus. They come powdercoated and are tubular. They are very streamlined and clean.

when I switched to the AlterKation...WOW. Night and day. Car drives like a band new car off the showroom floor. HUGE improvement on handling.
Bet it can't out corner a properly setup torsion bar car though. The torsion bar suspension is superior for various reasons.
 
I contributed to the OT drift. Lots going on in this thread. LOL

The OP asked about whether tubular UCA's would make a difference, and IMO the answer for the application was no.
Let me clarify what I posted earlier in the thread.
The Toyos are road racing tires. I use taller tires with more sidewall hight for general street use. 215/70r14 size. Its been years since I've driven the 'lower' portion of the BQE, but if it still as I remember, that's the type of road I want the car to be prepared for when driving on the street. Enough compliance and clearance to handle really rough, undulating roads. Add to that possiblity of loose surfaces such as dirt, gravel and snow. Torsion bar suspensions definately can have an edge there. I love driving dirt roads. Just be careful.
 
Bet it can't out corner a properly setup torsion bar car though. The torsion bar suspension is superior for various reasons.

And inferior in other ways. We'll never know with my car. It's a street strip car. I'm happy as hell with it and would never build another Abody with stock pieces. IT isn't worth the time money and hassle to me. Been there and done that several times.
 
Went out apple picking (was a bust) out east took a few 'country' roads at a good clip and definitely got that old car feel, this was with my girl and two kids. Hit a few winds and definitely felt a bit less effortless.
At highway speeds if I hit a bump, it just feels like a bump. It's the low speed uneven type of road that gets the front rattling like crazy. Sounds like it's coming from all over the car even behind me but that diedoes make sense bc everything in the rear is new.
 
Like we discussed earlier (post 14) if there are worn or loose parts, start there.
I'll add this. For transitions and for high frequency movement (bumpy roads) shocks are the next item on the list.
Do not use KYBs. Passengers couldn't hold a cup of coffee in their hands when I was driving on half decent suburban roads.
If you want to spend bucks, but not big buck adjustables, then consider the non-adjustable Bilstiens, Edlebrock and whatever Hotchkiss is selling I forget.
 
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