66 dart rear end swap

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David66dart

David66dart

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I have a 66 dodge dart and I have what I believe to be a 7 and 1/4 Rear end and have found that it will not hold the power of the swap I am doing from slant 6 225 to a 318. I was wondering what rear end I should use. I was thinking a ford 8.8 might work but I don't know how I would go about shortening it or anything. So what rear end would you recommend. It's My first engine swap and needing some help. Also if you know where to find tranny mounts for a 727 that would be great. But basically what's an easy and cheap way to put a new rear end in my dart. I really want something that will just bolt up. I am guessing the 73 f250 rear end I have won't work lol.
 
Welcome the f250 would have to be cut. I believe the 8.8 will fit just to move the spring saddles . If you can weld it's an easy job.
 
Hi David and welcome to the site. I would think an A body 8 3/4 rear would be easiest for your 318 swap. It should bolt right in
 
8 1/4 will bolt in and will hold up easily to a modified 318, just need to change out the driveshaft also.
 
Since your car should be the small bolt pattern lug size, I would seek out a small bolt 8 3/4” rear, unless you plan on changing the front to large bolt. The 8 1/4” A body unto will also bolt right in place, but uses the large bolt pattern, as does the 8.8” Ford unit, which will need one side of the axle tube cut, as one tube is longer than the other and the center is offset. You would also need another short side axle to replace the longer one. It may cost more to purchase an 8 3/4” A body rearend, but in the long run, it’s easier to work with, and it’s a bolt in. For any of these 3 swaps, you will need to have your driveshaft shortened as well!
 
Thank you to everyone that replied this should help me get on the right track. How would I go about converting the front to 5×4.5 after putting in a ford 8.8 or making it what ever the bolt pattern is of the 8 1/4 or 8 1/2. Because I obviously want to have one bolt pattern all the way arround the car
 
cosgig said:
Since your car should be the small bolt pattern lug size, I would seek out a small bolt 8 3/4” rear, unless you plan on changing the front to large bolt. The 8 1/4” A body unto will also bolt right in place, but uses the large bolt pattern, as does the 8.8” Ford unit, which will need one side of the axle tube cut, as one tube is longer than the other and the center is offset. You would also need another short side axle to replace the longer one. It may cost more to purchase an 8 3/4” A body rearend, but in the long run, it’s easier to work with, and it’s a bolt in. For any of these 3 swaps, you will need to have your driveshaft shortened as well!
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I know that I can get a ford 8.8 for 250$ out of a ford explorer would this likely need to be cut to fit in my dart? Is the process expensive to cut a rear end? Sorry I know I'm asking some silly or basic questions but I am 17 and first time doing a swap. I have just done lots of more basic things like clutch jobs ECT
 
David66dart said:
Thank you to everyone that replied this should help me get on the right track. How would I go about converting the front to 5×4.5 after putting in a ford 8.8 or making it what ever the bolt pattern is of the 8 1/4 or 8 1/2. Because I obviously want to have one bolt pattern all the way arround the car
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Using factory parts.........donor cars wolud be any 1973 to 1976 "A" body that has an 8 1/4 rear under it; take the rear, shock plates, drive shaft; up front take the upper control arms, spindles, caliper mounts, calipers, don't worry about condition of the rotor, it's easily replaced, just keep track of what the car was you got parts from, this is your reference vehicle.

Good luck
 
David66dart said:
I know that I can get a ford 8.8 for 250$ out of a ford explorer would this likely need to be cut to fit in my dart? Is the process expensive to cut a rear end? Sorry I know I'm asking some silly or basic questions but I am 17 and first time doing a swap. I have just done lots of more basic things like clutch jobs ECT
Click to expand...

The 8.8 swap is very common, and has lots of advantages, such as disc brakes and readily available Suregrip centers. It would cost about $200 to have the rear end cut, but you need to buy another short side axle as well, so that will add to the price. The perches also have to be welded in the correct locations, and you would have to buy the correct perches. There is undoubtably more than one thread here that explains the entire process, and I was hoping Moparmatt2000 would chime in here, he’s doing his right now!
 
cosgig said:
The 8.8 swap is very common, and has lots of advantages, such as disc brakes and readily available Suregrip centers. It would cost about $200 to have the rear end cut, but you need to buy another short side axle as well, so that will add to the price. The perches also have to be welded in the correct locations, and you would have to buy the correct perches. There is undoubtably more than one thread here that explains the entire process, and I was hoping Moparmatt2000 would chime in here, he’s doing his right now!
Click to expand...
Thank you! I am debaiting because I currently have access to a dana 60 that was in the truck that I pulled the 318/ 727 out of. So I may try and cut that down. Well have a shop do it.
 
Back in the day, I had a friend with a 66 Dart; 273 four barrel 235 horse; four speed; 7 1/4 posi. He bought it used and beat that car for two years before the rearend let loose. 4,000 rpm and dump the clutch; hundreds of times. He put a rearend in it out of a 63 Plymouth Belvedere. Bolted it right in. Kinda wide but today you could find offset rims all over. Forget that Dana; you have to cut and replace both ends and buy axles. Run the 7 1/4 til it gets sloppy then switch in a 8 1/4. Carry one spare with an adapter. Run a 904 and you can use the same driveshaft and trans mounts; nothing changes back there. 727 requires cutting the trans hump on both sides near the front of the bell. Plus it interferes with the floor brace above the crossmember. Some 727s have a rib on the tailshaft housing that hits it. My 66 Dart came with a 360 and 727 jammed up in it. I put in a 904 and am running the 7 1/4 until it breaks. I already had a sbp 8 3/4 so that will go in at that time unless I sell it then I'll go 8.8 narrow one side.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
Back in the day, I had a friend with a 66 Dart; 273 four barrel 235 horse; four speed; 7 1/4 posi. He bought it used and beat that car for two years before the rearend let loose. 4,000 rpm and dump the clutch; hundreds of times. He put a rearend in it out of a 63 Plymouth Belvedere. Bolted it right in. Kinda wide but today you could find offset rims all over. Forget that Dana; you have to cut and replace both ends and buy axles. Run the 7 1/4 til it gets sloppy then switch in a 8 1/4. Carry one spare with an adapter. Run a 904 and you can use the same driveshaft and trans mounts; nothing changes back there. 727 requires cutting the trans hump on both sides near the front of the bell. Plus it interferes with the floor brace above the crossmember. Some 727s have a rib on the tailshaft housing that hits it. My 66 Dart came with a 360 and 727 jammed up in it. I put in a 904 and am running the 7 1/4 until it breaks. I already had a sbp 8 3/4 so that will go in at that time unless I sell it then I'll go 8.8 narrow one side.
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Okay, Thank you, that helps a lot! I mean it's just that everyone says that the 7 1/4 is garbage and that it will break but I mean ya I can always run it until it breaks
 
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