Legend Gear 700 trans

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LJ67barracuda340

LJ67barracuda340

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Is anyone else using a LGT 700 5 speed trans. Are you having any problems? I'm having serious issues with mine and no one will give any support. Not Legend Gear, or the listed authorized dealers (which are calling themselves Transmission Shops). No one will even return calls or emails. I'm working with a local shop again and they have been great but if we need specific parts this time I may be screwed.
 
light up their youtube channel, probably thee best way to bring attention to your concern
 
If I knew what you mean and knew how to do that,,,,I'd be all over it.
vibration and a lot of gear noise gets worse when its hot are my issues. That video is a lot of years old also.
 
A few questions about your vibration problem. Are you using the original bellhousing? If not did you dial indicate it to the block? (centering it to the crank).
Does the vibration get better if you step on the clutch & allow it to come back up?
Which pilot bearing are you using?
SpeedyEd
 
A quick search says the gears are 2.66-1.78-1.30-1.00-.68od. That's a pretty nice progression of ratios. Would work well with a teener and 4.10s you bet. I like those splits. But,I wouldn't like that shifter;For me it seems; too short, too cramped with the lift lock on it, the ball is too small and too slippery.and it appears somewhat notchy. Minor glitches I can fix..

AS to vibration, look to the driveshaft or rear pinion angle before you get too excited.
As to gear noise, make sure the trans and shifter is not touching anything it's not supposed to.
If you already tried that, then, if you put synthetic in there, I would swap in some 85/95 EP oil and see what happens.
 
Last edited:
SpeedyEd said:
A few questions about your vibration problem. Are you using the original bellhousing? If not did you dial indicate it to the block? (centering it to the crank).
Does the vibration get better if you step on the clutch & allow it to come back up?
Which pilot bearing are you using?
SpeedyEd
Click to expand...
I'm using a Quick Time bell housing, I dialed the housing to within .002 I think,(I could look that up), It's not so much a vibration (sorry) as a noise of gear or bearing chunking mainly in the tail end (output) area. The pilot bearing is a retro fit roller bearing. If I clutch it the noise stops but when the trans and oil are hot there is a heavy loaded gear howl in any gear. When the car is on stands and the wheels are turning the sound is like there's rocks going thru the gears but when driving it's mainly a gear howl. The trans is out now and going to the shop to be disassembled for inspection. If the gears and the output ball bearing look OK I'm going to put her back in and drive it till it blows, then I'll know whats wrong,,LOL
Originally I was wondering if anyone else had made the same purchasing mistake on this POS.
thanks
 
AJ/FormS said:
A quick search says the gears are 2.66-1.78-1.30-1.00-.68od. That's a pretty nice progression of ratios. Would work well with a teener and 4.10s you bet. I like those splits. But,I wouldn't like that shifter;For me it seems; too short, too cramped with the lift lock on it, the ball is too small and too slippery.and it appears somewhat notchy. Minor glitches I can fix..

AS to vibration, look to the driveshaft or rear pinion angle before you get too excited.
As to gear noise, make sure the trans and shifter is not touching anything it's not supposed to.
If you already tried that, then, if you put synthetic in there, I would swap in some 85/95 EP oil and see what happens.
Click to expand...
Not sure if we're on the same page. There's no lift lock. pinion angle was set. Nothing is touching anything. I use Royal Purple Syncro Max, it was one of only 4 recommended fluids by the manufacturer. PS when driving it I love the splits on the gears behind my 400hp 340/ 3.23 geared cruiser. thanks

Learn about Legend Gear & Transmission's LGT-700
 
As to the clunk,
check the tailhouse very carefully for external signs of shinyness, which would indicate it was hitting something.
As to the whine
Is it also whining in direct 4th gear? That would be unusual, unless the TO bearing is dragging on the pp, Or the front bearing is laterally loaded or worn out; because in direct the power goes straight thru the box.
As to vibration
Check the yoke index on your new driveshaft.

If you like, you can ship that box to me and I will get to the bottom of the whine. I won't say I can fix it, but I can tell you what is causing it.
I have many many years experience, decades even, in driveline rebuilding.
I need a pair of nice rear quarters for my 68 Barracuda, and some trunk extensions,lol
 
AJ/FormS said:
As to the clunk,
check the tailhouse very carefully for external signs of shinyness, which would indicate it was hitting something.
As to the whine
Is it also whining in direct 4th gear? That would be unusual, unless the TO bearing is dragging on the pp, Or the front bearing is laterally loaded or worn out; because in direct the power goes straight thru the box.
As to vibration
Check the yoke index on your new driveshaft.

If you like, you can ship that box to me and I will get to the bottom of the whine. I won't say I can fix it, but I can tell you what is causing it.
I have many many years experience, decades even, in driveline rebuilding.
I need a pair of nice rear quarters for my 68 Barracuda, and some trunk extensions,lol
Click to expand...
yes it howles in forth (any gear) under any load which brings me to the output main bearing. The yokes are indexed correctly.

I replaced my rear quarters and had to build my own trunk extensions so I'm afraid I'm fresh out,,LOL
thanks
 
LJ67barracuda340 said:
Not sure if we're on the same page. There's no lift lock. pinion angle was set. Nothing is touching anything. I use Royal Purple Syncro Max, it was one of only 4 recommended fluids by the manufacturer. PS when driving it I love the splits on the gears behind my 400hp 340/ 3.23 geared cruiser. thanks

Learn about Legend Gear & Transmission's LGT-700
Click to expand...

I totally get you on the splits; I have almost the exact same splits in my combo
(.62-.73-.78-.71od; compared to your
.67-.73-.77-.68od) with about the same engine power. I could easily run 3.23s, but prefer 3.55s. .
As to the lift-loc
How do you engage reverse? I assumed you have to lift the reverse loc-out Tee-lever just below the ball,, which IMO is too close to the ball. Am I wrong?
I grab my shifter from the side like it was a revolver. They say I have big hands, so I like a big ball, on my shifter. With my A-833, I like an 8" stick, to make sure I never miss a shift. When I go for third, I put all 220 pounds of me into it, And I'm afraid I might break that little short thing, or slip off the tiny chrome ball.Which would drive my fist straight into the metal dash, with broken bones and loss of income following. At age 65,steady income is very important.
Well not all 220, but I moved the shifter back between the buckets and raised it up. So now I can put some serious shoulder into it without flinging my body at it like I used to
 
AJ/FormS said:
I totally get you on the splits; I have almost the exact same splits in my combo
(.62-.73-.78-.71od; compared to your
.67-.73-.77-.68od) with about the same engine power. I could easily run 3.23s, but prefer 3.55s. .
As to the lift-loc
How do you engage reverse? I assumed you have to lift the reverse loc-out Tee-lever just below the ball,, which IMO is too close to the ball. Am I wrong?
I grab my shifter from the side like it was a revolver. They say I have big hands, so I like a big ball, on my shifter. With my A-833, I like an 8" stick, to make sure I never miss a shift. When I go for third, I put all 220 pounds of me into it, And I'm afraid I might break that little short thing, or slip off the tiny chrome ball.Which would drive my fist straight into the metal dash, with broken bones and loss of income following. At age 65,steady income is very important.
Well not all 220, but I moved the shifter back between the buckets and raised it up. So now I can put some serious shoulder into it without flinging my body at it like I used to
Click to expand...
This is a modern trans with the shift mechanism going straight in thru the top to the shifter rails (like a Tremec). Reverse, you just shove it to the 5th gear gate and back, no safety other than the sound of gears clashing when you make the mistake. I'm using a copy of the factory 4 speed/console shifter. I'm 67 on a pension, but still don't want to smash bones,LOL

PA270526.JPG


PA270528.JPG
 
Oh ok! The one in the Corvette in the video had the loc-out, I thought it looked too GM for me,lol.
I could tell it was an internal-rail shifter right away by the way that guy shifted it it; he kept slipping off the ball, like he was used to a much longer Muncie-throw,lol.
Yours screams Mopar, And I like it.
My shifter would come out about in a plume-line with your ball, but only about half as high,give or take a bit. That looks like a pretty clean and easy install.
I would like a lil lower first gear tho; I really like my 10.97 starter gear for idling around the parking lot, and with the 2.66 low, that would take 4.10s, Waitaminute your overdrive makes 4.10s into 2.788, compared to my 2.769; I'm sold! Your second third and fourth ratios, with 4.10s, would match to mine within 6/7% in your favor, while matching my first and fifth. I really like it!!
Note to self, sell/swap A-833/GV for an LG700.

Did you have any trouble with the QT bell?
 
Last edited:
AJ/FormS said:
Oh ok! The one in the Corvette in the video had the loc-out, I thought it looked too GM for me,lol.
I could tell it was an internal-rail shifter right away by the way that guy shifted it it; he kept slipping off the ball, like he was used to a much longer Muncie-throw,lol.
Yours screams Mopar, And I like it.
My shifter would come out about in a plume-line with your ball, but only about half as high,give or take a bit. That looks like a pretty clean and easy install.
I would like a lil lower first gear tho; I really like my 10.97 starter gear for idling around the parking lot, and with the 2.66 low, that would take 4.10s, Waitaminute your overdrive makes 4.10s into 2.788, compared to my 2.769; I'm sold! Your second third and fourth ratios, with 4.10s, would match to mine within 6/7% in your favor, while matching my first and fifth. I really like it!!
Note to self, sell/swap A-833/GV for an LG700.

Did you have any trouble with the QT bell?
Click to expand...
QT bell is spot on once it's dialed in. Unless I get mine worked out I would not recommend ANYONE purchase a LGT700 from anybody. Unless you want headaches to go. Maybe mine's just a dud but no one will support you if it is. I'll let you know if we find anything. By the way this is the second time we've had it apart. Larry
That guy shifted like a Bowtie who doesn't drive stick, I agree.
 
When I put a Hurst Syncro/Lock three speed shifter in my '66 (273 with 3 on the tree at the time), I had to build a tunnel to cover it.
With the floor mat rolled back & no insulation there was gear whine that I never heard before. Checking the shop manual I discovered the Mopar approved lube was ATF. I had that replaced with 90 wt. gear oil & the noise went away. It didn't shift worth a damn in cold weather but it was quieter.
Do you have any floor covering?
Are the gears a straighter cut like the GM M-22 which are noisier?
SpeedyEd
 
SpeedyEd said:
When I put a Hurst Syncro/Lock three speed shifter in my '66 (273 with 3 on the tree at the time), I had to build a tunnel to cover it.
With the floor mat rolled back & no insulation there was gear whine that I never heard before. Checking the shop manual I discovered the Mopar approved lube was ATF. I had that replaced with 90 wt. gear oil & the noise went away. It didn't shift worth a damn in cold weather but it was quieter.
Do you have any floor covering?
Are the gears a straighter cut like the GM M-22 which are noisier?
SpeedyEd
Click to expand...
The shot of the tunnel was before a new larger tunnel was welded in to make room for the bigger trans. The under side of the whole floor is rubberized undercoated and the inside is completely covered in Dynamat, then carpeted. This trans takes a ATF type. I use RP Syn Syncromax but when it's back in I'll be switching to Amsoil Syn Manual Syncromesh 5w30. I read somewhere that they made the gearing with a straighter profile and I hear that in a gear whine (M22) but that's not it. When it gets hot like a trip on the highway the sound in all gears is a deep gear howl that changes pitch with speed and doesn't change pitch with gear changes. That's why I'm going in after the output.
 
Yeah, one of the guys in FBBO posted it so I posted over here.
 
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