Drivers Side Rear Spark Plug 440

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71GSSDemon

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So I have a dilemma. It appears with the homemade solid mounts (they also look like I need to add spacers to center them) my Demon has, the rearmost drivers side spark plug hits the steering shaft. It broke the plug. Are there shorter bodies plugs? Engine is a 1976 with 452 heads. The car had a 440 in it prior to me, but I didn't see their set up. What are people using?

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On the mount, is that one long bolt thru the front mount tab on the block, the mount itself and the rear mount tab? Looks like the engine can slide front to rear on that long bolt. If it comes all the way forward, or all the way back, does the plug clear the shaft? Odd looking set up if ya ask me.
 
Right now it is just setting on 1 bolt through it all. As I mentioned, it will need spacers for and aft of the motor plate. The trans is bolted onto the mount and the mount in the crossmember so I dont know how it would move fore or aft.
 
Accel 8197 shorty plug. ~$4.5 a pop.

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Slow Down, do your 452 head plug sockets have a beveled edge?
RV 452 Heads....spark Plugs

NGK Standard Series Spark Plugs BM6FY BL1/2967

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Thanks guys. I have a set of Hooker Super Comp fenderwell headers that will be used. I would run all shorty plugs instead of just one. The bodies of these plugs seem excessively long as they sit. It is a great idea to convert to thru the valve covers plugs...
 
So I have a dilemma. It appears with the homemade solid mounts (they also look like I need to add spacers to center them) my Demon has, the rearmost drivers side spark plug hits the steering shaft. It broke the plug. Are there shorter bodies plugs? Engine is a 1976 with 452 heads. The car had a 440 in it prior to me, but I didn't see their set up. What are people using?

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I`d raise the motor as far as things will alow, looks low to me. And there are shorter plug out there !That being said , can u modify the steering box mounting system a little too?
Engine looks to be not offset right too.
 
I am not sure what the last guy had going when he welded those in, but he had a 440 with a 6-71 blower on it. My dad being the original owner made his own when he put the 440 in, but not these. I have been merely comparing pictures of other's set ups - valve cover to master cylinder, heater box, wiper motor, etc... To me it looked low also, but how low can it be? Maybe just enough. I had thought of cutting them all out and putting elephant ears in. I do have a spool mount K member that could be swapped in with Schumacher mounts, but planned to save that for when the day comes to go back to a 340+6 and factory inner fenderwells.
 
I just went out and looked at it quick. It will have to come up. The engine boss is hitting the adjuster on the steering box. Not sure the correct angle the engine is supposed to be on. Our hot rods were like 5* tilted back. Trans mount is in where it belongs so any lift will increase the angle. Engine right now is 0* The current plugs are angle seat Autolite #26's.

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Right now it is just setting on 1 bolt through it all. As I mentioned, it will need spacers for and aft of the motor plate. The trans is bolted onto the mount and the mount in the crossmember so I dont know how it would move fore or aft.
I modified my crossmember by adding 2 inches, this allowed the Engine to move back towered the fire wall, tight fit but worked well. just modify the trans crossmember?
 
Camera angles can certainly be deceiving, but it looks to me as if the engine is an inch or more too far to the left, as well as too low. Here is a blurry photo from the engine swaps website that shows left right positioning straight on. Crank snout centerline to right frame horn should be pretty close to 13.75", crank snout centerline to the left frame horn should be pretty close to 14.75".

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Can you shim the engine up at all? I've done that to clear my high volume oil pump from hitting the k member... used door shims
 
So I went out and measured. I found the mounts make the engine .75" too low and centered in the frame, where as the chart from Daves69 shows the engine should be offset to the passenger's side 1.25". Right now 15" both directions.
 
So I went out and measured. I found the mounts make the engine .75" too low and centered in the frame, where as the chart from Daves69 shows the engine should be offset to the passenger's side 1.25". Right now 15" both directions.

That sounds right as it first seemed to me that the engine mount holes (on the actual block) looks like it's pretty darn close to the steering box. Sounds like it should go more to the passenger side. 1.25" is a good amount when it comes to clearance with a plug with steering shaft.
 
with the engine at the wrong offset (none) your driveshaft orientation is wrong too as the trans tail is still at factory location. You always want to maintain a parallel output and pinion relation in any axis with a slight nose down attitude per your rear end setup, but skewing any off the X or Y is not recommended. Try and get it back to 1.25 offset and that will free up some spark plug room.
 
So, I decided the mounts currently in the car will have to be cut out. Then the decision has to be made. Make something new, use a front engine plate or elephant ears, or swap the k member out for a different one I have and add Schumacher mounts.
 
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I bought an engine plate from AREngineering, member AndyF here. Motor isn’t in yet, but it sure is pretty. It’s offset for factory position
 
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