car wont start

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nm9stheham said:
If you have 25 psi out of the pump, it sounds like a pump made for an EFI system, which may not be appropriate, even with a pressure regulator. What pump do you have?
Edit to add: Or the gauge is off.
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a carter fuel pump for a carb engine. my problem is a bought a fuel regulator I turned it all the way down and according to my fuel gauge I'm still at 20-25 psi I don't know what I else I can do , everything is new ( even the fuel lines ) ?
 
purplescamper said:
a carter fuel pump for a carb engine. my problem is a bought a fuel regulator I turned it all the way down and according to my fuel gauge I'm still at 20-25 psi I don't know what I else I can do , everything is new ( even the fuel lines ) ?
Click to expand...

You can find out if the gauge and regulator is right and get rid of that pump if they are.
Probably have to change your oil and filter as well if the gauge is right, because it's likely 25 psi not only flooded the hell out of your motor keeping from starting, but filled your crank case with gas.

Oil level too high or smell bad of gas?
 
Sounds simple but make sure you have the plug wires in the correct firing order

It happens....
 
purplescamper said:
a carter fuel pump for a carb engine. my problem is a bought a fuel regulator I turned it all the way down and according to my fuel gauge I'm still at 20-25 psi I don't know what I else I can do , everything is new ( even the fuel lines ) ?
Click to expand...
Can you list a model number please, on both pump and regulator? Just to put another set of eyes on it to double-check. Regulatro is inline after the pump correct? Yeah, I know, dumb question, but it's time to look over every possibility...
  • Pump could have been assembled wrong
  • Seems like time to check with another pressure gauge; there are inexpensive ones at any parts store to use for making sure yours is right.
 
TrailBeast said:
You can find out if the gauge and regulator is right and get rid of that pump if they are.
Probably have to change your oil and filter as well if the gauge is right, because it's likely 25 psi not only flooded the hell out of your motor keeping from starting, but filled your crank case with gas.

Oil level too high or smell bad of gas?
Click to expand...
I just changer the oil, haven't cranked the engine yet ?
 
nm9stheham said:
Can you list a model number please, on both pump and regulator? Just to put another set of eyes on it to double-check. Regulatro is inline after the pump correct? Yeah, I know, dumb question, but it's time to look over every possibility...
  • Pump could have been assembled wrong
  • Seems like time to check with another pressure gauge; there are inexpensive ones at any parts store to use for making sure yours is right.
Click to expand...
I have a carter street/ strip electric fuel pump and a summit fuel pressure regulator 4 1/2 to 9 psi
 
purplescamper said:
I have a carter street/ strip electric fuel pump and a summit fuel pressure regulator 4 1/2 to 9 psi
Click to expand...

Sorry, but the 25lb gauge reading your getting throws a wrench in that making it critical to find out why.
My first thought would be a bad gauge, but you need to be sure of what it's actually doing, not just assume it is doing what it is supposed to do.

Do you have any indication of too much fuel?
Like flowing into the intake without the engine running and just the pump on?
 
TrailBeast said:
Sorry, but the 25lb gauge reading your getting throws a wrench in that making it critical to find out why.
My first thought would be a bad gauge, but you need to be sure of what it's actually doing, not just assume it is doing what it is supposed to do.

Do you have any indication of too much fuel?
Like flowing into the intake without the engine running and just the pump on?
Click to expand...
before I changed the oil, I would crank it and I would get like a fine mist cloud out of the carb, and gas smell in the garage
 
purplescamper said:
before I changed the oil, I would crank it and I would get like a fine mist cloud out of the carb, and gas smell in the garage
Click to expand...

I remember that, and the 25 psi caught my attention.
I almost hate to say this, but a non seating intake valve could do that, because it would blow the compressed air by the valve and shoot your fuel/air mixture back out of the carb.
Makes em run horrible when this happens because it affects the other cylinders by disrupting the intake charge.
 
TrailBeast said:
I remember that, and the 25 psi caught my attention.
I almost hate to say this, but a non seating intake valve could do that, because it would blow the compressed air by the valve and shoot your fuel/air mixture back out of the carb.
Makes em run horrible when this happens because it affects the other cylinders by disrupting the intake charge.
Click to expand...
so what do I check or do ?
 
purplescamper said:
so what do I check or do ?
Click to expand...

Compression test and/or leakdown test.

I found one like that on a car by pulling the spark plug, making sure the cylinder I wanted to check was on the compression stroke and shoot about 30 lbs of air in the cylinder.
I could hear the air coming up into the intake.

It made the engine turn over a little because of the air, but it was an obvious rush sound in the intake at the same time.
Compression test on that cylinder was low and I wanted to find out why.:D
(burned intake valve and seat not sealing)
 
TrailBeast said:
Compression test and/or leakdown test.

I found one like that on a car by pulling the spark plug, making sure the cylinder I wanted to check was on the compression stroke and shoot about 30 lbs of air in the cylinder.
I could hear the air coming up into the intake.

It made the engine turn over a little because of the air, but it was an obvious rush sound in the intake at the same time.
Compression test on that cylinder was low and I wanted to find out why.:D
(burned intake valve and seat not sealing)
Click to expand...
the engine was built years ago, and stored with lotsa marvel mystery oil. put it in the car last year as I was doing work on it, I put break in oil and ran it, it was getting low vacumn 10" I noticed a anti freeze leak coming out the front corner of the left cylinder ( front). the person who built the engine didn't put sealant on the head bolts. I pulled the heads, installed new head gaskets and new arp bolts. while I had the heads off I noticed all the valves on the heads carbon on them except the valves on number 1 cylinder they were spotless. I put everything together and torqued to specs, I then started the car to these problems
 
purplescamper said:
the engine was built years ago, and stored with lotsa marvel mystery oil. put it in the car last year as I was doing work on it, I put break in oil and ran it, it was getting low vacumn 10" I noticed a anti freeze leak coming out the front corner of the left cylinder ( front). the person who built the engine didn't put sealant on the head bolts. I pulled the heads, installed new head gaskets and new arp bolts. while I had the heads off I noticed all the valves on the heads carbon on them except the valves on number 1 cylinder they were spotless. I put everything together and torqued to specs, I then started the car to these problems
Click to expand...

They were clean because they got steam cleaned by coolant, and may very well have trashed the cylinder, rings or valves from lack of lube.
Have you compression tested that cylinder yet?
It's also possible the coolant stuck the valve open.
 
TrailBeast said:
They were clean because they got steam cleaned by coolant, and may very well have trashed the cylinder, rings or valves from lack of lube.
Have you compression tested that cylinder yet?
It's also possible the coolant stuck the valve open.
Click to expand...
I'll test everything tommrow
 
TrailBeast said:
:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
ok this is where im at...first I installed a old fuel pressure gauge and was able to set the fuel pressure to 5psi, then I pulled the plugs here are the results...1( 90 ps1 ) 2 (90 psi) 3 ( 100 psi) 4 (88psi) 5 (90 psi) 6 ( 92psi ) 7 (90 psi ) 8 ( 94psi) these were taken when the engine was cold
 
purplescamper said:
ok this is where im at...first I installed a old fuel pressure gauge and was able to set the fuel pressure to 5psi, then I pulled the plugs here are the results...1( 90 ps1 ) 2 (90 psi) 3 ( 100 psi) 4 (88psi) 5 (90 psi) 6 ( 92psi ) 7 (90 psi ) 8 ( 94psi) these were taken when the engine was cold
Click to expand...
Pretty hard to test a non running engine when it's warm. LOL. Fire it up.
 
purplescamper said:
ok this is where im at...first I installed a old fuel pressure gauge and was able to set the fuel pressure to 5psi, then I pulled the plugs here are the results...1( 90 ps1 ) 2 (90 psi) 3 ( 100 psi) 4 (88psi) 5 (90 psi) 6 ( 92psi ) 7 (90 psi ) 8 ( 94psi) these were taken when the engine was cold
Click to expand...

Variations of cylinder pressures are in a decent range. Certainly no dead cylinders, but no way to know of the wear is excessive. It certainly ought to fire and run with those compression numbers. The actual numbers are low but we don't know what cam is in it. OP, can you tell us anything about the cam? I'd put a few drops of motor oil in each cylinder, just in case the oil got washed down with excess fuel, forget about that for now, and focus on other things.

So a bad fuel pressure gauge, you think? Sounds like it. With this, the observation of the mist back out of the carb needs re-examining. The idea of an intake valve sticking is disproved by the compression numbers being so consistent across the cylinders. Honestly it sounds like the cam or ignition are way out off; that could cause the mist back out of the carb.

purplescamper said:
the engine was built years ago, and stored with lotsa marvel mystery oil. put it in the car last year as I was doing work on it, I put break in oil and ran it, it was getting low vacumn 10" I noticed a anti freeze leak coming out the front corner of the left cylinder ( front). the person who built the engine didn't put sealant on the head bolts. I pulled the heads, installed new head gaskets and new arp bolts. while I had the heads off I noticed all the valves on the heads carbon on them except the valves on number 1 cylinder they were spotless. I put everything together and torqued to specs, I then started the car to these problems
Click to expand...

So, it is correct to think you pulled the distributor when you R&R'd the heads? In that case, the mist out of the carb and the distributor R&R make me think the ignition timing is now way off due to the distributor not being put in right.
 
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