Buyer Beware - Rick Ehrenberg

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I was initially siding with rt-man, but IF I was to sell him ANYTHING, as-is where is.
Rick should've been smart enuf to NOT back the engine up.
What a clusterfuck....I'll agree with Jpar(say what??)
2 meatheads, no wait 3 if you count the current engine "builder".
EDIT, scratch that, I wouldn't sell him squat.
 
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I was initially siding with rt-man, but IF I was to sell him ANYTHING, as-is where is.
Rick should've been smart enuf to NOT back the engine up.
What a clusterfuck....I'll agree with Jpar(say what??)
2 meatheads, no wait 3 if you count the current engine "builder".
EDIT, scratch that, I wouldn't sell him squat.

Yup!

The buyer is making a good case as to why you shouldn't sell to him.
 
I used to rebuild engines for a living (nothing exciting, my part consisted of all most assembly line style work)

There were probably a dozen of us who worked at this shop, and each of us had a unique paint marker (mine was yellow)
Certain key bolts would get a little dab of paint (head bolts for instance) and once that paint "seal" was broken, our warranty was gone

My point?
When the seller got "his mechanic" to start messing with it, he muddied up the waters far enough that I can see the seller backing off on it, simply because it now is impossible to tell who caused the problem
 
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I was initially siding with rt-man, but IF I was to sell him ANYTHING, as-is where is.
Rick should've been smart enuf to NOT back the engine up.
What a clusterfuck....I'll agree with Jpar(say what??)
2 meatheads, no wait 3 if you count the current engine "builder".
EDIT, scratch that, I wouldn't sell him squat.
I heard that...
 
I was initially siding with rt-man, but IF I was to sell him ANYTHING, as-is where is.
Rick should've been smart enuf to NOT back the engine up.
What a clusterfuck....I'll agree with Jpar(say what??)
2 meatheads, no wait 3 if you count the current engine "builder".
EDIT, scratch that, I wouldn't sell him squat.


Proverbs 18:17 applies in many cases.
 
So the way I read that is, they ball honed cylinders that looked good and somehow miraculously "uncovered" porous rust? Bullshit. Somebody's not telling the truth.
 
So the way I read that is, they ball honed cylinders that looked good and somehow miraculously "uncovered" porous rust? Bullshit. Somebody's not telling the truth.
This things a cluster screw from the get-go...
It's like almost every time someone rings in with both sides this story my diagnosis of a new title for this thread Rings true every time.
 
I'm thinking the Master Mopar Machinist friend did a bait and switch.
 
The guys engine rebuilders been a huge suspect when I read this. obviously the original poster does not know much about engines at all to buy this. Now he's going to listen to someone lead him by the nose into spending more money. Let's ditch this 340 you paid all this money for? In favor of a 360? And he didn't do that in the first place? Way too many question marks?????
 
sat for a few years in a garage on the humid East Coast. and it rusted.. Parts rust in a matter of minutes on the humid East Coast.
I have nothing bad to say about Mr E-booger, I've enjoyed his tech for many years.
I'm going with the bait and switch.
 
The guys engine rebuilders been a huge suspect when I read this. obviously the original poster does not know much about engines at all to buy this. Now he's going to listen to someone lead him by the nose into spending more money. Let's ditch this 340 you paid all this money for? In favor of a 360? And he didn't do that in the first place? Way too many question marks?????

Uh-huh.

And why do I have the feeling that when Ehrenberg said this 340 isn't what you need, he did so by asking some questions.

Buyer has a fairly heavy car for an around the town cruiser.

Buying a 340 with a single plane coming from a pro-engine builder. Now, why the hell might a pro-engine builder put a single plane intake on it?

Cause the engine as whole is meant to run at a higher rpm?

Then throw a dual plane on it and it's down on power. Solution? Don't do a quick front end teardown to check a cam. Carbs! Yeah! Carbs! That's it! $$$$$

Then "master mechanic" does a ball hone and finds rust... Sure... Even more $$$$$

That amount of rust even a blind man can see. Never heard of wiping the bores clean? Amazing what a blue shop rag on the palm of your hand can feel, even if you can't see it. Now, the mechanic is just incompetent.

But, wait! Mechanic happens to have a 360 over in the corner. $$$$$

Did he also have a rusted up 340 sitting over the corner, too?

The OP is getting hosed five ways from Sunday. The supposed mechanic is either completely incompetent or a thief racking up the dollars.
 
Hooray, drama...
Wait a minute...it has mopar content...
Let's make a t.v. show about it and make big money!

Nah, I'm bored already ...NEXT!!!
 
I would never purchase a "rebuilt" tooth brush unless it came with a warranty. And something like a motor, first thing I would have done is pull a head before firing it up. I haven't read through the whole thread, but sounds like it was rebuilt, but rusted up in storage. So at which place did it rust up, from who you bought it from or in your possession? Hard to say or prove....

Sucks any way you look at it...
 
I am driving a 1970 V-code Road Runner from New York to San Francisco, stuck in a blizzard in Wyoming at the moment, so my reply will be brief. I will not get into a pissing contrst.

Here are the facts:

In the spring of last year, we sold this guy a professionally rebuilt 72 340, 0.030" o/s, forged crank and pistons, that was done by a well known Mopar pro shop a while back. (The builder is deceased). It was a cammed-up, single-plane semi-drag motor, and he was aware of that. Big tube tti headers were part of the package but he declined them. Great for a 3,000 lb A-body, but he was insistent on putting it in a pig heavy 73 or 74 b-body. He had us change the intake manifold to a dual plane, which made the combo even worse, because it was a manifold that made no high RPM power, and a cam with no low end. But he hadda have a 340. OK, whatever.

When he came to pick it up he used a borescope to look at each cylinder wall and piston top. We read the numbers on the pistons and looked at the cylinder walls which were perfect - flawless, like jewelry. He agreed. You could see the crosshatch. The engine had been sealed tight and everything was coated with assembly oil.

So he decides to break it in with synthetic oil, and, no surprise, the rings don't seat. Then started a long email chain; he had this so-called engine builder pull it apart, and he sent me an e-mail, which I have, where he said everything looked perfect inside. I had given him many suggestions as to how to get the rings to seat, but never got a reply or response to any of those points. He also doesn't live all that far from me, but never showed me the car. Or even called.

Months later, actually over a year, he sends another email, now the cylinder walls are suddenly rusty. Huh? And the block needs to be sleeved? Even assuming everything he says is correct, why not 0.040" oversize? Got no response to that either - deaf ear syndrome.

Then he decides he wants a 360, which he has built by his buddy, but he uses a bunch of parts from the 340 he bought from us, including the connecting rods, heads, valve gear, manifold, etc etc. Without saying a word to me.

I am not saying he is a bad person; just that he has gotten a lot of really bad "advice and help". This started, I presume, when he was told a 340 was good for his application. I guess he has finally awakened to the smell of the coffee, and figured out that a 360 is far superior in a heavy car. Had it been mine, it would have had a 408 from day one.

So now it is a year and a half later. And he wants $1,000 back?

When pigs fly.

Rick
 
Posting this on every Mopar board does not make the OP right.
FACT: You bought an engine that had been built long ago by someone else.
FACT: You obviously do not have the tools or skill to build an engine yourself so you had to rely on someone else to assess the quality of the build.
FACT: Rick admitted that he did not build the engine.
FACT: You did a poor job of inspecting a used engine.
FACT: The engine sat for years but you decided to paint it and run it anyway.
FACT: New engines get by with synthetic oil because they run tighter clearances for the piston, have thinner rings and have tighter ring gaps. Older style engines and synthetic oil is a crapshoot as to how well the rings will seat.
FACT: People that do not understand something often feel that they were "cheated" when something goes wrong.
FACT: Unless you saw the engine run, you do not know exactly how well it will run, no matter WHO built it.
This is a sad attempt on your part to cover your own mistake. YOU should have done a better job inspecting the engine.
 
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