Buyer Beware - Rick Ehrenberg

-
Would like to add for those who think new cars can break in on synthetics , oems break in the engines on the line , robots carry the block crank and pistons , it is plugged a direct oil pressure line and oil is shot at cylinders in a closed container while a device attaches to crank and spins the short block over a given period and the break in oil just leaks right out into a bottom pan and recirculated(probably filtered and changed every so often)then engine moves on the line gets washed and head are bolted on ,pan etc. etc.(maybe not exactly in that order)so when you get your car engine is already broken in!Now remember the old days when you got a new car you couldn t do the break in on the engine properly cause you had to break in the gears , then in doing so you can t break in (or bed in)brake pads properly , and the list goes on...
 
I must admit, I'm a Rick loyalist, but I still approach this with an objective approach, and it doesn't matter who is involved. The OP didn't do his homework and sat on things far too long to expect resolution.

Tough nuggets. Grab your trophy for trying and exit stage left.
 
I must admit, I'm a Rick loyalist, but I still approach this with an objective approach, and it doesn't matter who is involved. The OP didn't do his homework and sat on things far too long to expect resolution.

Tough nuggets. Grab your trophy for trying and exit stage left.
So you are saying, if you have a motor done by your machine shop. The motor sits for 4 months, then you get it running and it has issues. The machine shop is off the hook because it sat 4 mounts.
 
Last edited:
sorry edited it
#1 It wasn't bought from a machine shop, #2 if it's a high perf build, IF you get any kind of warranty its usually tied to a time limit, so yeah if you bought a motor from a machine shop, and it sat for 4 months, and you found rusty cylinders, you would probably be SOL...
 
#1 It wasn't bought from a machine shop, #2 if it's a high perf build, IF you get any kind of warranty its usually tied to a time limit, so yeah if you bought a motor from a machine shop, and it sat for 4 months, and you found rusty cylinders, you would probably be SOL...
The motor was in a climate controlled place. The rust is what bothers me. It just looks to deep to happen in 4 months. I have taken heads off motors here that have sat for 20 years in my garage, I never seen any rust and I am in the north east. The mechanic should have looked at the engine a little better.
 
Last edited:
So you are saying, if you have a motor done by your machine shop. The motor sits for 4 mounts, then you got it running and it has issues. The machine shop is off the hook because it sat 4 mounts.
I'll not justify this by discussing a completely different scenario than what happened in the context of this discussion.
 
thats the time line 4 months and the motor was in a climate controlled garage
 
Last edited:
I must admit, I'm a Rick loyalist, but I still approach this with an objective approach, and it doesn't matter who is involved. The OP didn't do his homework and sat on things far too long to expect resolution.

Tough nuggets. Grab your trophy for trying and exit stage left.

The OP not doing his homework and trust a guy who needs Braille after saying the bores were fine, then does a quick hone and finding rust.

This is why folks need to be educated. Completely and totally.

Even if you pay someone else to do the job, know enough about the job to know when something smells rotten.
 
thats the time line 4 mounts and the motor was in a climate controlled garage

Do you ever look at your sentences after writing them? You make so many mistakes, it makes it hard to take you seriously. A small mistake is not unusual but it looks like ENGLISH is not one of your strong points.
 
If there was enough moisture in that bottom end to rust pit those cylinders either prior to, OR after, purchase, that motor would've been locked up tighter than my pocketbook, the oil would've looked like a Sonic happy hour milkshake, and the cam and other associated parts would have blooming rust.
That rust damage HAD to happen prior to assembly, or after teardown, and if before so, the bore scope should've caught it.

That rust did NOT occur during storage

And regardless, the op STILL should've pulled it down to see what was in it, either before sale or quickly after.
 
Do you ever look at your sentences after writing them? You make so many mistakes, it makes it hard to take you seriously. A small mistake is not unusual but it looks like ENGLISH is not one of your strong points.
Sorry, I was driving today and spell check english was not good to me.
 
You dont have to take him seriously, I will.
What's your strong point?
Do you ever look at your sentences after writing them? You make so many mistakes, it makes it hard to take you seriously. A small mistake is not unusual but it looks like ENGLISH is not one of your strong points.

Sorry, I was driving today and spell check english was not good to me.
 
If there was enough moisture in that bottom end to rust pit those cylinders either prior to, OR after, purchase, that motor would've been locked up tighter than my pocketbook, the oil would've looked like a Sonic happy hour milkshake, and the cam and other associated parts would have blooming rust.
That rust damage HAD to happen prior to assembly, or after teardown, and if before so, the bore scope should've caught it.

That rust did NOT occur during storage

And regardless, the op STILL should've pulled it down to see what was in it, either before sale or quickly after.
I completely agree with this ,,,,,,

if those SEALED cylinders were somehow allowed to rust after assembly and before tear down , that entire motor would look like it was just pulled from sitting next to the Titanic. it was either assembled that way or sat outside without heads on it but with an intake covering the guts ???
OR
it's not the same 340
 
I am driving a 1970 V-code Road Runner from New York to San Francisco, stuck in a blizzard in Wyoming at the moment, so my reply will be brief. I will not get into a pissing contrst.

Here are the facts:

In the spring of last year, we sold this guy a professionally rebuilt 72 340, 0.030" o/s, forged crank and pistons, that was done by a well known Mopar pro shop a while back. (The builder is deceased). It was a cammed-up, single-plane semi-drag motor, and he was aware of that. Big tube tti headers were part of the package but he declined them. Great for a 3,000 lb A-body, but he was insistent on putting it in a pig heavy 73 or 74 b-body. He had us change the intake manifold to a dual plane, which made the combo even worse, because it was a manifold that made no high RPM power, and a cam with no low end. But he hadda have a 340. OK, whatever.

When he came to pick it up he used a borescope to look at each cylinder wall and piston top. We read the numbers on the pistons and looked at the cylinder walls which were perfect - flawless, like jewelry. He agreed. You could see the crosshatch. The engine had been sealed tight and everything was coated with assembly oil.

So he decides to break it in with synthetic oil, and, no surprise, the rings don't seat. Then started a long email chain; he had this so-called engine builder pull it apart, and he sent me an e-mail, which I have, where he said everything looked perfect inside. I had given him many suggestions as to how to get the rings to seat, but never got a reply or response to any of those points. He also doesn't live all that far from me, but never showed me the car. Or even called.

Months later, actually over a year, he sends another email, now the cylinder walls are suddenly rusty. Huh? And the block needs to be sleeved? Even assuming everything he says is correct, why not 0.040" oversize? Got no response to that either - deaf ear syndrome.

Then he decides he wants a 360, which he has built by his buddy, but he uses a bunch of parts from the 340 he bought from us, including the connecting rods, heads, valve gear, manifold, etc etc. Without saying a word to me.

I am not saying he is a bad person; just that he has gotten a lot of really bad "advice and help". This started, I presume, when he was told a 340 was good for his application. I guess he has finally awakened to the smell of the coffee, and figured out that a 360 is far superior in a heavy car. Had it been mine, it would have had a 408 from day one.

So now it is a year and a half later. And he wants $1,000 back?

When pigs fly.

Rick
Hey Rick, welcome to FABO and thanks for all the great tech and help over the years.
 
"It was a cammed-up, single-plane semi-drag motor, and he was aware of that. Big tube tti headers were part of the package but he declined them. Great for a 3,000 lb A-body, but he was insistent on putting it in a pig heavy 73 or 74 b-body. He had us change the intake manifold to a dual plane, which made the combo even worse, because it was a manifold that made no high RPM power, and a cam with no low end. But he hadda have a 340. OK, whatever."

To me, an experienced engine builder should have seen all this coming. And killed the deal.

I KNOW this motor isn't for you, but hey, you got money so "whatever."
Ultimatly, buyer beware. Seller beware, too. Perfect storm when they met............
 
I too feel the rust was there long b4 the op bought the motor. I have been burned b4 by not looking stuff over good as I am very trusting and believe a mans word is gold. But I too have found out that is not the case in some deals. I just bought a 440 with Diamond pistons and Molnar rods and other parts b/n in the boxes. He sent pics but how do u really know he has those parts or just linked them? I trusted what he said. He was an honest guy. I got all he was selling for a great price. Kim
 
Last edited:
Spit-Coffee.png
.....pffffttt
 
-
Back
Top