Shorting an axle and measuring for axles?

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Cope

Cope

Fusing with fire
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I'm ready to get my axle built and realised I may be about to screw this up big time.

My axle is a ford 9" fabricated housing with a spool.

First should I put the 3rd member in the housing and line up the rear yoke to the trans output? How much off set do I want side to side?

I have almost zero room from the side of the tire to the mini tub. I guess I need to lower the car over the wheels and make dam sure the tire is centered side to side in the tub or I'm screwed.

I also have concerns that I'll not be able to get the wheel off the studs once its sucked up in the wheel well. I guess worse case I'll have to drop the back of the springs, shocks and brake line? I could use a long brake line but that only solves one issue.

The rear end shop is super busy and not returning my calls so the're no help. I'll be calling strange tomorrow to see how they want me to get the measurements but I figured I'd ask you folks as well.

Anything that stands out to you that I'm not thinking about?
I'm gonna have a lot tied up in this axle so I cant afford to screw this up.

Tha is for the help and advice.
 
Cope said:
First should I put the 3rd member in the housing and line up the rear yoke to the trans output?
Click to expand...

That's what i would do for the centering of the 3rd member to the tras output. IE if CL of the trans yoke is 33" (just a number I made up) from the right frame rail I would make sure the CL of the 3rd member yoke is the same dimension.

The rest is measure 30 times cut once!

regarding lug nut access... if the car body is raised will the read droop enough for access? with shocks disconnected?


Cope said:
I have almost from the side of the tire to the mini tub. I guess I need to lower the car over the wheels and make dam sure the tire is centered side to side in the tub or I'm screwed.
Click to expand...

There will always be flex in the body and rear end so "almost zero room" might rub some times. If this is a drag car the body will rake (not sure if it is the correct term) or twist relative to the rear end and might cause some rubbing as well
 
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That's a good idea!

I dont think it will have the drop I need but no way to know until its almost done.
 
Im making an assumption that you are using a 4 link and coil-overs of some sort.

More info and photos is always helpful.:thumbsup:
 
It's a leafspring car.

Didn't think about the body twisting. I do have a 10 point cage and frame connectors so hopefully it will limit flex.
 
Cope said:
Didn't think about the body twisting. I do have a 10 point cage and frame connectors so hopefully it will limit flex.
Click to expand...
Extreme examples of what I was talking about. not so much body twist but roll due to opposing forces.
upload_2018-9-30_14-5-3.png
upload_2018-9-30_14-5-56.png
 
Hopefully my SS springs will help with that...


So, line up the yoke to the out put shaft, zero off set. Center wheels in tubs and measure everything then call strange and see what they have to say.
 
Cope said:
So, line up the yoke to the out put shaft, zero off set. Center wheels in tubs and measure everything then call strange and see what they have to say.
Click to expand...
That's my take on things.

Don't forget about pinion angle. there has been a lot of discussion on FABO about proper angle compared to trans angle.

good luck.

measure 30 times, cut once!
 
I was all ready to have pops drop the rear end off for cutting then I realised I had screwed up, did some Google search and dam if I didn't almost screw up big time...

Pinion angle will be addressed after the housing is cut and welded. I'm gonna bolt it all up with wheels on and slide it under he car. Locate the axle fore and aft, mount the springs, set pinion angle and weld perches last.
 
Cope said:
Locate the axle fore and aft, mount the springs, set pinion angle and weld perches last.
Click to expand...
Good way to go, I would have the housing checked for straightness after the perches are welded on
 
Perfect scenario, empty block and trans mounted in the car. Use a laser to centerline the rear yoke through the block-trans. To elaborate? Center the yoke in the tunnel center. With as much movement the rear will make, what's a few degrees off side to side? Drop a plumb bob from the yoke center (knowing the offset of the 9" pinion to center) then plumb bob the frame (to marks on the floor for both frame, pinion and offset of rims-tires). There's your blueprint. Axels can be "close" since spools and axels have plenty of spline for play. Rear attachments are the last thing done IMO. Tack then Weld in a jig to keep housing straight.
Use the wide masking tape on the floor for your marks, car can move but they don't.
Tape is also used to center-square (making a T with the top line 90 degrees to the other) the whole car when ready to setup the car.
 
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