Master Cylinder question

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FlDart360

FlDart360

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Question about brake master cylinders. The previous owner swapped out the drum brakes on the front only of my 71 Dart Swinger to disks from some other A body. He never changed the master cylinder from when the car was running all drum manual brakes. The car stops fine, but I noticed they make a master cylinder for a 73 and up A body for manual disk drum combination which is now what I have. If I should need to replace the master cylinder should I consider a different model and would any other modifications be needed? Would I notice anything different?

Thanks.
 
I'm getting ready to do this swap on my van, If you don't mind I'm gonna eavesdrop this conversation !!
 
Following I'm in the hunt for a new mc also I'm leaning towards the dorman m80266. It has a 15/16 bore. Mine is a disk front drum rear manual brake setup. But I'm gonna do a rear disk conversion in the future.
 
What would be the best Willwood master cylinder to use
 
Disk brakes displace more fluid than drums so you need a larger reservoir for the disk calipers. That's why they are biased in reservoir size. Drums also are supposed to keep some residual pressure (10 psi) to keep the seals tight. Disks dont need that much (0-2) as the lip seals are different than the brake slave cylinder seals.
 
cuda guy said:
What would be the best Willwood master cylinder to use
Click to expand...
Not power brakes? Wilwood #260-13375 (15/16" bore). They are nice, but I really dislike the way they use 4 very tiny (and leaky) screws to hold the cover on. Don't forget, you'll need the 2-bolt to 4-bolt adapter plate, and also an adjustable pushrod.
 
I don't like the old rusty cast-iron MC's w/ the leaky tops. Many use a 1980's Dodge truck aluminum MC w/ adapter plate. Dr Diff sells as a kit. Link posted many times.
 
There is no problem using whatever master is on there, if it stops the car fine. The larger reservoir on the disc drum system is for lazy people that never check their fluid levels. You're not one of those are you?
 
As long as the fluid doesn't get contaminated and the top gasket keeps the moisture out, iron masters continue to work for decades. And rebuild kits are cheap. In 50 years I have only ever bought one new m/c, and only because I didn't have a used 15/16 kicking around.
 
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