ignition
VOLTAGE to the switch, key off is 12.4 then key on, it is 12.2 Just dropped .2 v... The battery is freshly charged and shows 12.5 v with cable off and 12.3 cable on.
So is this correct?
After installing the Battery cable, the voltage drops from 12.5 to 12.3 V.
If the 12.5 Volts was read after removing the charger, the drop to 12.3 may simply be surface charge.
Is this correct?
Key off. Bat positive = 12.3 V, Hot feed at switch = 12.4 Volts
Since voltage doesn't go up, lets for now assume accuracy of these measurements will vary a tenth or so.
Key on. Bat positive = 12.3 V ?, Hot feed at switch = 12.2 Volts
We
may be seeing a drop in voltage due to current flowing to the alternator field and the ignition amplifier.
Was there any noticible movement on the ammeter when the key was turned to run?
Are the headlights installed? If so, key off, turn them on and check voltage at battery positive and hot at ignition switch. There will be enough current flowing that if there is resistance between the battery and the main splice, it will show as noticible drop in voltage.
I have never have this car running. Been on the back burner a while. It has a battery that has never been used about 3 yrs old. I see no problem with it holding a charge.
Is the starter not hooked up?? If it is 67Dart273 gave guidelines on whether its holding a good charge. If it isn't, the load test using the headlights that I just gave will be an indicator.
With key ON, should I not be getting the same v on both sides of ballast, like 11 or so???? I am only getting about 11.7 and 7 with key on.?? Then when I try to start, the start side of ballast goes from 7 v to 9 v and the run side drops from 11.7 to 8.5
No. Yes, and yes. In run, current flows through the resistor to the ignition. Your mopar amplifier is drawing power even though the engine is not running. In Start, the situation reverses.
Can't comment on the absolute numbers. Need to know the voltage at the battery positive at the exact same time.
Starting should I not be getting more lke11.5 or v, at coil + ??? instead of only 8.5 and only 9 at ballast????
Correct. Starting, the coil should be getting full battery voltage - whatever that is. The same voltage should be at the coil side of the ballast, the firewall connector, ignition switch, etc all the way back to the battery.
I get the same v at switch as at firewall inside and ballast .
Great.
If I have 12.3 at switch hot wire and in ign #2 start I read 9 there, does not v not have to be more like 11 ???????
It needs to be the same. When looking for resistance it doesn't matter what it was before the key. Turn the key to start and the hot in and the ign 2 out should read the same voltage. The terminal to the starter relay should also read that same voltage. If 9 both sides, then the problem is elsewhere. If its 12 in and less than than on either ign 2 or start, there is a problem.
Can the Moar ECU set up cause any of this?????
Maybe. Unplug it if you think it is. Only thing that
should change is the current flowing to ignition with engine off, key on, will be less.
