ignition

BACK!!!!! I wish I knew how to show =the diagram with my findings! BT computer is not my best skill! Those diagrams really help me keep up with the voltage. I NEVER bypass the amp gauge but I did on this 62 Lancer last week when I was in the dash, mainly because of the age and wiring, and this early car is a TOTAL ***** to get in there. Way harder than 63 up cars. I had picked up a new ign switch last week an installed it and a NEW battery. I think the old battery just was not staying up like it should even though I kept it fully charged.
I did find this: V. under the hood is good , EXCEPT I loose about .5 v from ballast to coil+, BUT I find where the wires connect to ballast no doubt have a problem. I will replace that.
I do lose .3 v from red hot wire at bulkhed to ign switch. Like 12.6 to 12.3 . The ign switch reads 10.9 in start mode at ign 2 brown wire terminl (ign swithch), and same wire at ballast under the hood will read .5 v lower at 10.2 v. So I lose .5 v at the bulkhead. I have cleaned this with a brass brush several time already.
With key ON, th v. at ign swithch compared to ballast also drops about .5 v. so no doubt there is a problem there. IF this is too much a drop I can drill thru the firewall and go direct.
I have the mopar EC hooked up correctly. When I leave the key on doing all this the coil (new) gets pretty warm. I have no spark coming out of coil. The v at coil in start is 9.7v while the reading at ballast during start mode is 10.2 . losing .5 v but I relate that to the poor connection at the ballast.

all plug wire are new, new coil, IF the dist is bad, I should have fire out of the coil right?? I have 9.7 at coil + during crank, maybe low but should be enough?
Can a bad dist, and the wire from it to coil be a problem??? Net is change out dist. I have plenty of USED stuff! How good???????