Another alignment thread!

I disagree. Toe-in for a rear wheel driven car should be 1/16in or less, depending on how tight the front end suspension/stg components are. If everything is tight, including wheel bearings adjusted properly and good quality strut rod bushings, you can reduce toe-in closer toward zero.

That's fine if you disagree. I actually disagree with you on the purpose of toe-in. In my experience, the purpose of toe-in or toe-out is to put a prompt on the tires to track slightly in or out so they aren't at 0 degrees. When tires are at 0 degrees, any little bit of play, or irregularity in the road surface can allow them to move inwards or outwards, and not equally from left to right. This is what causes cars to wander around the road. When I used to race snowmobiles, we set up our skis to toe-out a bit. It helped it track straight and not follow every little rut left by the people that ran ahead of you. If you set the skiis perfectly parallel, it would dart back and forth being thrown by every little inconsistency in the trail.

We each have our own opinions, but I will say that pretty much any alignment reference says to set our cars (on radial tires) to 1/16" - 1/8" toe-in, including the Skosh chart in the "Turn of the screw" link that 67Dart273 attached.
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I did the calculations,.... well, actually, I modeled up my 225/60-R14 radials in my 3D CAD software and determined that a 1/8" toe-in (1/16" per side) equates to a .15 degrees per side. The original poster said his were .13 on the left and .14 degrees on the right. That should come out to just under 1/8" toe-in. If he wanted to reduce the tow-in down to closer to 1/16", he could reduce the angle measurement down to around .07 degrees per side, but where he is at is not unreasonable. In fact, it is exactly where I have mine set (with all brand new suspension and steering) and mine tracks as true and straight as can be, and I've seen no signs of tire wear.