Cam Degree

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Slantsix64

Slantsix64

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After trying to chase down my run-on issue/dieseling, i have come to believe my cam/valve timing is out of wack. Would i be able to degree the slant six cam in side the engine bay? and any tips or methods you guys have used are welcome.
 
Murray said:
Whatever your dieseling problems are, they are not related to cam timing.
Click to expand...
Not sure I agree with that but "OK"

Has it ALWAYS dieseled or did it develop?

Carbon fouling, other problems in cylinders even a damaged gasket "fire ring."
Timing retarded
Lean idle mixture
Too fast idle speed
Too hot spark plugs
Cooling problem, either system running hot, or something restricting flow causing block hot spots, IE rust/ sludge/ corrosion/ deposits/ etc

Something "odd" like an exhaust restriction can cause odd problems and is off the radar. Does it seem to have the "power" it should? I know slants are an "impressive powerhouse," so ??
 
regarding whether it can be done in car: I have done it in the car a few times, whether I did in your particular year, model, app I can't remember. What I do remember is having to use an M/P degree wheel because of space limitations.
 
My slant 6 was dieseling bad and alot of other issues like low rpm stumble wouldn't idle and some other things it was all carb related. I changed to a new carb and It went away
 
thanks for the replies.my previous set up 7.9 compression ratio would have a little shake after shut off, i believe it was due to having a hydro camshaft with mechanical rockers. Even though it never kept running once in a while it would have a little shake after shut off.

Once i swapped heads and milled them .100 to achieve 9.1 CR swaped to the howards 473. lift camshaft the problem arose. the carb is new and idle is set low so the butterflies are closed. timing is set at 5 degrees. cooling system runs at 175-185 constant. plugs are colder ngk ur6 gapped to .45 running HEI
also when i swapped heads i cleaned the carbon deposits on each piston. instead of running a double roller chain i ran a single one.
 
probably carb related.....but the cheapest and easiest fix for dieseling is shut it off in drive then put it in park....problem solved
 
bbrroowwnn said:
probably carb related.....but the cheapest and easiest fix for dieseling is shut it off in drive then put it in park....problem solved
Click to expand...
I had three carbs on it, and they all did it so i think its not carb related, now it currently has a 500cfm avs
 
Another thing i was thinking when i changed the cam and head i got some water in the engine. Drained oil, then ran break in oil, then changed it after 500 miles.
 
Another thing when i ran that head there was alot of rust build up in the hea
67Dart273 said:
Not sure I agree with that but "OK"

Has it ALWAYS dieseled or did it develop?

Carbon fouling, other problems in cylinders even a damaged gasket "fire ring."
Timing retarded
Lean idle mixture
Too fast idle speed
Too hot spark plugs
Cooling problem, either system running hot, or something restricting flow causing block hot spots, IE rust/ sludge/ corrosion/ deposits/ etc

Something "odd" like an exhaust restriction can cause odd problems and is off the radar. Does it seem to have the "power" it should? I know slants are an "impressive powerhouse," so ??
Click to expand...

UPDATE
My car has not dieseled in the past three days. I changed two things at the same time so I don't really know which one fixed it. Guess the edelbrocks with electric choke have a open vacuum port with causes a small vacuum leak to help regulate the choke pull off mech by under hood temperature draw. Only problem it is directly over the exhaust port on a slant six sucking in hot air. I plugged it up idle speed dropped. Second my oil breather cap was gunked I forgot to swap it with the new one once I rebuilt the motor. Comparing both one was way heavier.
 
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