What will my 68 Dart 408 run in 1/4 mile?

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It does look close, but if you can run your fingers around the tire (the thick part of your fingers...~0.75 inches) you're probably fine. They really don't grow too much.
 
Thanks for the picture Jpar. Unfortunately that won't work for me.
20180615_105047[1].jpg

With my springs being moved into the frame I can't use a spacer but I could weld up my holes and re-drill a new one back a half inch.

I actually ordered my driveshaft a hair longer then stock so I checked and I can definitely move the axle back a half inch or even 3/4 of an inch without adversely effecting the driveshaft yolk.
 
Thanks for the picture Jpar. Unfortunately that won't work for me.
View attachment 1715187806
With my springs being moved into the frame I can't use a spacer but I could weld up my holes and re-drill a new one back a half inch.

I actually ordered my driveshaft a hair longer then stock so I checked and I can definitely move the axle back a half inch or even 3/4 of an inch without adversely effecting the driveshaft yolk.

No reason to mess with with that, redrill the spring pads on the rear
 
Just drill a hole further back. Plenty or room and meat in that bracket.
 
Question for you guys, I also have a similar setup, Dana 60 3.73 gears, 2.64 first gear.

Gear Ratios:
1st 2.64 : 1
2nd 1.92 : 1
3rd 1.40 : 1
4th 1.00 : 1
5th 0.70 : 1

I currently have a Borg & beck 3 finger pressure plate: RAM Powergrip Clutch Kits 98773, But I need to update to an 18 spline clutch disc... what would you recommend
 
Just drill a hole further back. Plenty or room and meat in that bracket.

That's kinda what I was thinking the more I've looked at it. One thing I need to check though is make sure my rear shackle won't be jammed back into the frame if I move the whole leaf spring back 3/4 of an inch. I gotta get it back on the ground so I can simulate how they are positioned when there's the weight of the car on them. If that looks good though I'll just be drilling the bracket and moving the whole springs back. If not I'll do the spring/shock perch and axle perch re-drill.
 
Defnintly check the rear shackle end position. worst case scenario though you move that mount too or run sliders.
 
Question for you guys, I also have a similar setup, Dana 60 3.73 gears, 2.64 first gear.

Gear Ratios:
1st 2.64 : 1
2nd 1.92 : 1
3rd 1.40 : 1
4th 1.00 : 1
5th 0.70 : 1

I currently have a Borg & beck 3 finger pressure plate: RAM Powergrip Clutch Kits 98773, But I need to update to an 18 spline clutch disc... what would you recommend


I think there is a unit for sale right here in FABO and it had the 18 spline disc and a spare disc as well. Seems he had a pretty decent price on it as well.

Search through the for sale ads here. I don't think it sold yet.

That's the clutch you want.
 
I think there is a unit for sale right here in FABO and it had the 18 spline disc and a spare disc as well. Seems he had a pretty decent price on it as well.

Search through the for sale ads here. I don't think it sold yet.

That's the clutch you want.
the one that's almost $2,000 bucks?? I'm sure it's an excellent drag racing clutch, but can that thing be used on the street, and for how long? As for adjusting that thing, I wouldn't even know where to start. lol. That's definitely above my pay grade.
 
How much slip yolk exposed past the dust seal is too much? Experimented by sliding the axle back and with the weight of the car on the suspension it normally shows about 1/2 inch of the yolk. If I move it back say 3/4 of an inch like I need to then I'm showing 1 1/4 inches of yolk past the dust shield. I feel like that is probably too much.
 
the one that's almost $2,000 bucks?? I'm sure it's an excellent drag racing clutch, but can that thing be used on the street, and for how long? As for adjusting that thing, I wouldn't even know where to start. lol. That's definitely above my pay grade.


Yes, that's the one. And yes, you can use it on the street. As for tuning...it's not that hard. I had about 18,000 miles on my last disc and I don't know how many passes. If you are even a fair driver the disc will go a good bit.
 
Yes, that's the one. And yes, you can use it on the street. As for tuning...it's not that hard. I had about 18,000 miles on my last disc and I don't know how many passes. If you are even a fair driver the disc will go a good bit.
Okay thank you. I will definitely have to think about it. That's s large sum.
 
Okay thank you. I will definitely have to think about it. That's s large sum.


It is a big chunk of change but it's the only clutch I'd run. In fact, that's what I use. And I have a street car that sees the track very rarely. As jpar about that, as he can verify my lack of track time.
 
Okay thank you. I will definitely have to think about it. That's s large sum.

I just noticed two things.

1. Cale Aronson did the clutch. He also did mine. IMHO, that adds value to the package. Cale is a very smart guy and I'm positive he will help you with clutch set up.

2. I see the seller dropped the price a bit. Don't know the seller, have no horse in the race but it's definitely something to have. I'd already have bought it if I didn't have one.
 
Lol..

And lookin back in the for sale threads, I missed that soft lok clutch swingindart was sellin. Just damn.
 
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