s/6 to 440 ? engine mounts

-
try Streetmasters, maybe out of Minneapolis. Their conversion mounts are basically 2 nested U channels held with a bolt on one end, sort of like a hinge. One side bolts to K, other to motor. Its a solid mount.
 
Trans-Dapt - Summit sells them $60 or so.. I have the small block to big block kit - the only difference I found was the driver side biscuit wasn't cut/notched for the oil pump - 30 seconds with a sawzall and they can be installed

Now I should mention I have a QA1 tubular K member so I didn't have to cut up the K member to fit the motor.. I guess the Schumacher mount kits come with directions, and templates to mod the stock K member which the Trans-Dapt kit doesn't have directions at all really on modding the K member - plus you should really get a torque strap - which Schumacher are the only company making a torque strap to my knowledge - I used a fox body mustang one, but again aftermarket K member
 
When you see how mad you need to cut the K for a biscuit mount swap kit you'll see how much of a necessity the torque strap is.

If I were to use a stock K-member again. Which I most likely wouldn't. I'd locate a spool mount K member to do the swap.
 
I don't know that I'd want solid mounts on a street car. I've been in one that had them. It was noticeable.
 
I would like to know who has but a 440 into a factory /6.. 66 dart...what mounts were used...I bought a set of trans dapt mounts for this application...sorta.. the pass side works perfect, but the driver side would if the rubber mount was 2'' thicker...plus a little cutting is needed on the k frame to allow room for the oil filter...any thoughts...thinking about making a spacer to put on top of the rubber mount. looks like a 6 cyl mount could work om the driveside its 2'' thick...
 
You need the Schumacher motor mount shim kit and torque strap, I had the same issue.. used shims on both sides.. Are you test fitting with the headers in place? If not you're wasting your time.. you need to shim the mounts for EVERYTHING to fit, not just the motor and oil pump..

Cutting the stock K member for the oil pump is normal and must be done
 
zac_F71 said:
You need the Schumacher motor mount shim kit and torque strap, I had the same issue.. used shims on both sides.. Are you test fitting with the headers in place? If not you're wasting your time.. you need to shim the mounts for EVERYTHING to fit, not just the motor and oil pump..

Cutting the stock K member for the oil pump is normal and must be done
Click to expand...
thanks for the reply..iam using fender well headers... and see no probs as of yet that I cant handle there... so you have done a early a body /6 to a rb/bb...
 
flathead31coupe said:
I would like to know who has but a 440 into a factory /6.. 66 dart...what mounts were used
Click to expand...

If I were to do this swap using factory parts I'd look into something like this.
 

Attachments

  • engine mounts2.jpg
    34.5 KB · Views: 397
  • engine mounts.jpg
    36.5 KB · Views: 368
flathead31coupe said:
thanks for the reply..iam using fender well headers... and see no probs as of yet that I cant handle there... so you have done a early a body /6 to a rb/bb...
Click to expand...
No I have a slant 6 71 Demon that I put a 383 in, they are all basically the same..

I'm using 2" under chassis headers, so shimming was needed to make everything fit.. I have stock big block isolators I'd sell - 1 already cut for the big block oil pump if you wish to try them? As I ran into the same problem you're having - and bought new 2" thick big block rubbers, but they were to tall for my setup, made the trans hit the tunnel, so I bought the Schumacher shim kit and a fox Mustang torque strap (I have an aftermarket K member).. PM if you're interested in the mounts - I'll sell them cheap
 
zac_F71 said:
No I have a slant 6 71 Demon that I put a 383 in, they are all basically the same..

I'm using 2" under chassis headers, so shimming was needed to make everything fit.. I have stock big block isolators I'd sell - 1 already cut for the big block oil pump if you wish to try them? As I ran into the same problem you're having - and bought new 2" thick big block rubbers, but they were to tall for my setup, made the trans hit the tunnel, so I bought the Schumacher shim kit and a fox Mustang torque strap (I have an aftermarket K member).. PM if you're interested in the mounts - I'll sell them cheap
Click to expand...
here is what iam finding out the 66 is a 1 1/2 smaller in the engine bay...plus the firewall is not big enough to fit the 727 no matter where the engine sits lol its crazy...ill make it work lol
 
flathead31coupe said:
thanks... its just a factory 440 in a 66 /6 dart... fender well headers... not worried about the headers...just engine mounting...
Click to expand...

And a rubber mounted elephant ear setup like this one from ARE would allow you to put the engine where it belongs and not use a torque strap, butcher the stock mounts, deal with oil pump clearance etc.

You could cut the mounts right off the K-member
 
I have a set of "streetmaster" BB to early A mtr mts. ain't used em yet (cant find a good roller that ain't gold plated). When I find my camera charger I will post a pic of em. they look real nice. not sure if they are still in business. I did see a pair of em on eBay (new) awhile back.
 
Rapid Robert has the ones I used. No cutting for oil pump. But it sits mighty close. I think I actually grinded on the relief bolt a little. Its a solid mount but its not bad inside under power. Hey, your going to feel a 440, believe me. The 727 will fit: pound the body seam at the tunnel and use 4 3/4 nuts between your K and your subframe to space them about 1/2 inch. Now the body will sit 1/2 higher on the K to assist in tranny clearance. youll find the headers interfere with the idler arm as the designed bodies were 2" longer wheel based. youll have to check your alignment once you get it back together but I drove mine like this and didnt have issues.
 
flathead31coupe said:
I have got the enging mounts in and the trans in place but.... the tailshaft is hitting the top of the floor right where the cross member goes, not letting me put the cross member one needing about 3/4 or so... to get the bolts through the cross member...
Click to expand...
and if that not bad enough...just noticed that since I moved the stright axel forward... the oil pan is only 1/2 away from the axel.... its a 7 quart.... any ideas....
 
flathead31coupe said:
and if that not bad enough...just noticed that since I moved the stright axel forward... the oil pan is only 1/2 away from the axel.... its a 7 quart.... any ideas....
Click to expand...
and i just also noticed that the engine is sitting to the pass side almost an inch... I need a break lol any input would be helpful..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top