Another alignment thread!

OK. There's nothig wrong with adjustable strut rods when used for the correct purpose. FF started making them and some guys I know made them for themselves. Adjustability allows for variations in the front strut bushings (common in the 'one size fits all' aftermarket) and for those that wish, converting the front bushings to rod ends.*

As you may or may not know, the mopar lower control arm bushings are long rubber (or poly or nylon) pieces. Especially with poly-u or nylon, the arm needs to be 90 degrees to the shaft (sometimes called a pin) in bushing. With rubber, there's a little more forgiveness. Do the best you can. Its hard to judge accurately because both the front and rear half of the rod's bushing compress. In other words, the position of the rod and lower control arm move forward as the nut is torqued to spec. People were having trouble with polyureathane bushings being to fat, resulting in final positions that were pushing the lower control arms backward on the LCA's bushing.
Steve Wall and myself tackled this a little differently just about the same time as others were working on the adjustable strut rods. Working from Steve's info, I did a slice up of the most commonly available poly strut bushings so it would fit my 67 without pushing the LCA backward. Shown here: Making A-Body Strut rod Bushings Work

*These were all people involved in some sort of competition, vintage road racing or autocross mostly.

agreed on the adj struts, i installed them on my car because i had to fix a bent mounting location for the pass side strut rod. didn't want to pull it apart a third time after initially rebuilding the front end (the alignment specs were bad on the pass side, i could look at the front tire postion in the wheelwells and could tell the pass side had about 3/8-1/2" more clearance between the tire and front fender lip).
installed the adj strut rods, with the torsion bar out, i snugged up the control arm in the k-member and lifted it to roughly ride height. adjusted the strut rods on both sides so that the strut positioned the arm in a good spot, no freeplay, it wasn't pulling the arm forward trying to bind it...
after i got it all back together i dropped marks on the pavement with a plumb and measured from the rear of the torsion bar sockets to the middle of the front spindle bolt for the lower ball joint. both sides are within an 1/8" of each other now.
went to the alignment routine after that...