What is minimum electrical required to start my car?

YOU CAN EASILY learn to make some tests that we can step you through, and

HERE is what you need to do to get prepped:

1......GET an honest to God Chrysler OEM shop manual for your car. You can buy reprints (paper) or "on CD" various places

2....DOWNLOAD the wiring diagram from MyMopar. CAVEAT!!! These are aftermarket, not factory, and they are somewhat simplified, leave out some options

3....ALSO from MYMopar download the 73 shop manual. The wiring is SOMEWHAT DIFFERENT between 73 and 74, but you can work with it if necessary.

4....Somewhere I have a POOR SCAN of the 74 wiring, I'll dig it up

5...IF you do not have, get a basic multimeter, 25 bucks or more at a parts store, Lowes/ Home Depot, Hardware, etc

6....Get a simple 12 test lamp, any parts store and a couple of alligator clip leads, "jumper" leads

7....Get a spark tester, Horrid Freight, any parts store, or even "drum up" a good clean spare plug and wire that you can "rig" as such.

8....As suggested above, POST a / some GOOD CLEAR photos of the engine bay, so we can see what has been modified (if any) and general overall condition of the 'bay

IN THE MEANTIME start with this:

A...IS IT CORRECT that the engine motors over on the starter when the key is twisted to start?

If so, try this:

Put the key in the "run" position and measure voltage to ground on both pos and neg coil terminals, and post back here. POS should be at least 6, and more like 8--10 -------------The NEG coil terminal should be no more than 1 or 2 volts

Put the key in "start" with your meter on the coil PLUS. This voltage should be no less than 10V and more is better. Post this voltage

Pull the distributor connector (2 wire) apart, and inspect for corrosion, and feel for "tightness" Connect/ disconnect it several times to "scrub" the terminals clean.

Remove the ignition box, and scrape around the bolt holes on the firewall and the rear of the ECU box. Remount tight, use star lock washers. THE BOX MUST BE GROUNDED

"Rig" your coil wire from the coil to a plug and ground to make a test gap, or use a spark tester. Turn the key to "run." Take the distributor connector end NOT that leads to the distribtutor, but the end leading to the engine bay harness. One terminal is "bare" exposed. "Tap" this bare terminal on a ground and each time you do so should produce a single "snap" spark at the coil.

WHAT YOU NEED TO RUN

The ignition system can be "rigged" with a bit of work, but test first as I started to step you through

You need a good fully charged battery that will lively crank the engine

Don't discount that the fuel may be stale. CHECK the plugs to see if they are wet with fuel, or oil fouled, or dry. This will tell you too much/ too little fuel, and if the fuel is over a year old, I'd get some fresh

You can easily make a gas priming can, a squirt oil can, or just take and empty oil container and punch a nail hole in the lid, throw in some gas, and squirt!!! A little oil in the container will not hurt anything