First start after 35 years

I couldn’t (still can’t) believe how good a shape it’s in. My wife hadn’t seen the car since it was stored and was all sorts of worried bad things had happened over the many years (e.g. vandalism, damage, rot...). It has always been in Illinois, so I figured road salt would have eaten it to bits. I’d have to say Zeihbart works pretty well.

I don’t know for sure how the various sub-systems are. I’m back home and the car is still in Illinois. My plan is to get organized for our next visit (around the holidays?) and attempt to get it running. Once it runs, put on a flatbed and get it closer to home (ours or my in-laws, more and better space to work on it).

As j par points out, I figure anything made of rubber is likely brittle and will need replacing (fuel lines, hoses, tires...). I’ll plan on doing the brakes and lines just ‘cause. From the sounds of it, I’ll need to plan on fixing some oil leaks too.

Thanks 70dustah, I’ll keep digging for the right priming procedure. I was wondering how to ensure the valve train got oiled. I won’t drop the tank in place, not much room to work. But, good to know about the sending unit and gasket.

jimjimjimmy, I couldn’t find an available copy online. I found SAE for has it for sale at $28Chrysler Corporation's 340 Cu. In. V-8 Engine, or send me a SASE?

I’m not a Mopar guy, but after a long road - am on the path now. I’m a tinkerer with an insatiable curiosity. At 16-17 years old, I replaced the engine (twice) on a ‘74 Javelin (dropped all 8 exhaust valves in a 401 when the stock retainers didn’t hold the 3/4 race cam and springs I put in. One let go altogether, shattered the piston and cracked the engine block. Expensive mistake for a $10 part. That’s when the original 304 went back in...). From there I had a ‘74 Saab 99 that needed a new transmission, a Peugeot 505 STI that needed a new engine... then miscellaneous bicycles, I built a couple mechanical watches from parts and now a 1969 340 Swinger needs some TLC.

Thanks for the reminder d55dave. Now that you mention it, I recall some Mopars used left hand threads on the driver’s side from my days at the garage.

I will ask my in-laws to start collecting gallon jugs. My father in-law told me Rockford will take hazardous waste every weekend. Can’t believe the sludge and discoloration. Wow!

Many thanks again for the help.

What a great story and best of luck. I would concur as to drain all fluids, oil the cylinders with Marvel, ATF, or whatever. I like Kroil. Try to turn over with a breaker bar and socket on the crank pulley nut. If it turns, pull the distributor and use a priming tool and electric drill to pump the new oil throughout. If it doesnt turn by hand. Soak for a few days. Each day carefully try back and forth with the breaker bar. Too much force can break piston rings or lands on the piston itself. Once free, then crank with fresh battery and a temporary fuel tank.

What a great rescue, can't wait to see it when it gets all of the dust shaken off. A well preserved time capsule for sure! Those guys in Tulsa should have just put Miss Belvedere under a tarp instead of burying it in an underground vault/aquarium!

BY the way your car past sounds a lot like mine. AMC Spirit, Saab, and 3 Peugeot 505s, never had but always drooled over the STI! I had to change a clutch in my turbo diesel once. Those enclosed drive shafts are a PITA!

What a great story. Amazing what water will do.

Very similar car ownership indeed. Never had to deal with the enclosed drive shaft. The STi was a nice car. It found me; got it from a friend when the engine blew.

I've been doing some research on an oil priming tool, and can't quite figure out what's needed.

Many threads on FABO talk about a 5/16" hex (and making versus buying one). When I talked about it with my father-in-law, he said the distributor (with dual points) has a rectangular tab at the bottom (similar to a large standard screwdriver) to drive the oil pump.

Pictures of 1969 340 dual point distributors for sale on eBay show what looks more like a large standard screwdriver at the bottom than a 5/16" Allen wrench. I also looked for an oil pump priming tool at Summit Racing and at Mancini and both describe the tool as a 5/16" hex. I'm so confused...

Does anyone have better insight or experience on the oil pump priming tool we'll need (i.e. rectangular tag or 5/16" hex)? When I go to Illinois, I'll only have 4-5 or so days and may have time to order a second tool. Got to get it right the first time.

@lm782 The 5/16 hex priming tool is what you want. When you pull the distributor out, and look in that hole, you will also see the cam gear. Take a picture of its orientation for reinstalling. You need to pull the cam gear. The end of the cam gear is the 5/16 hex.

I usually use a large standard screwdriver to turn it and get it loose and then a telescoping magnet to get it out.

Keep in mind, the position of the distributor. I would mark it so it goes back in the same direction.

Hook your priming tool to a drill and turn it clockwise at full speed. Have a helper slowly turn the motor over with a breaker bar. When you see oil up to the rockers, done. Keep rotating till you get oil on the other side.

I can't stress the distributor position enough. Be sure to mark it. Take a pic of the cam gear orientation in the hole as well. You don't want to be out of time when trying to fire that thing.

Got it. Thanks for the write up, plumkrazee70. Sounds like there will be a little discovery needed (on my part) regarding the cam gear, but I understand much better now.

Understood regarding the distributor. I planned on marking its position relative to the block. Pictures, yes. Sounds like there will be a way to tell the cam gear's orientation once I lay eyes on it.

Welcome from NC

lm782 said:

Thanks so much. Some of my other challenges are space and tools. Dropping the tank in place will be difficult. I'll empty it there (mortar tub sounds like a great idea) and rig up a temporary can under the hood. Will look at the carb to see how sticky it is, plan on spraying it down and read up on how to gravity fill a Carter AVS.

Yes, the tires are gonzo. I'm adding a few pictures so you can see the car and confines of where I'm working (let alone 1500 miles from home and my tools); one picture includes a tire. I hope they hold enough air so we can roll it out to start (I expect plenty of blue smoke for a bit) and onto a flat bed so we can start working on it.

I found info online on how to prime the pump and per-circulate oil. After changing the oil, looks like all I need is to pull the distributor and use a hardened 5/16" hex rod with a drill.

Will also start doing some reading on dual point distributors...
View attachment 1715228606 View attachment 1715228607 View attachment 1715228608 View attachment 1715228609 View attachment 1715228610

Click to expand...

When replacing the fuel filter , purchase the one that comes with the two rubber fuel lines at each end.