What is minimum electrical required to start my car?
ok... i "*** U ME D" since I cranked on the car ignition for a few days, then removed the battery and reinstalled battery and the key did not crank the car - it wasn't the seat belt interlock "because it worked for a few days in a row and ONLY removed and then reinstalled battery" that wasn't the problem -----
View attachment 1715237939 Jumpered across it with aligator clips - waaalaaa it cranks from the key.... still no fire but at least it turns over by the key... back to where I was before battery removed n put back... still no fire...
But I did do this.... <with the key OFF>
I hooked multimeter from (hot on battery) - (to the top left condenser) then (bottom left of condenser) then (top right condenser) then (bottom right condenser) ---- every time the reading said 12.46 volts
THEN
<with key ON/RUN POSITION>
ALL 4 positions registered 1.76 volts
<with key START>
top left cond - 4.38....top right 1.35 .... bottom left and bottom right - 4.57
didn't hook 12v from battery directly cause it might blow something if I did with these readings
can you tell from these reading might might be the problem???
I have no idea what you are talking about here. "Condenser"
Do you mean the white object with 4 wire terminals? That is the BALLAST RESISTOR, and it is actually TWO (often called a dual ballast) resistors which are DIFFERENT from one another.
One section goes to the coil and works just exactly like older cars with breaker points, and the other section feeds power to the ECU box
This was eliminated in later years. You may sometimes hear people talking about a "4 pin ECU" or a "5 pin ECU" or a "4 pin ballast" or dual or single ballast.
The earlier (original OEM) ignition boxes were 5 pin and had to have a 4 pin ballast like yours has
The newer ignition boxes are "4 pin" and can use a single OR dual ballast
The white object at the top of the photo is your dual ballast, or ignition resistor.
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/1019181826-jpg-jpg.1715237709/[/img
The top and bottom terminals on the left are jumpered together, and with key in the "run" position, should read "same as battery"
The terminal at bottom right feeds power to the ECU and will read some less, I'm not sure just what
The terminal at top right feeds the coil, and might read anywhere from 6--10V with key "on."
If it reads "same as battery" it means the ECU is not causing the coil to draw current or that the coil is bad
The readings we need with key in "run:"
Left two terminals should be "same as battery."
If not, post what they are, no need to read the others
If you have "same as battery" on the left two, post what you have on the other two
Then measure coil PLUS and coil MINUS and post them back
