65 Barracuda 318 Rebuild, Cam, timing, lifters maybe a kit?

318willrun said:

just a figure of how one says... yes, you have it right

Click to expand...

Ok thanks lol

Dart so far so good
first the duration split with stock ports and exhaust
single pattern cams with aftermarket heads and headers
it's all in the flow which is why good camgrinders ask for your head flows and exhaust, mufflers or open headers etc
if you take a given intake and increase the exhaust conventional wisdom says you will get an extended top end- but it depends on the heads and headers or not
or you can go one size shorter on the intake and keep the exhaust one size bigger- helps with a low compression motor- helps if you can get more lift on that intake so it thinks it's one size bigger
Now what you see is that camgrinders should have a series of intake lobes and a series of exhaust lobes
instead they use "one size fits all" lobes which is why you see the exhaust with more lift- which - if you look at the flows- it most likely does not need
In the sbm case with stock heads it's hard to justify even a half inch lift- .450 works
you need a cam that opens the intake quickly then levels off then closes- letting the cam rise on up looks good but does little and makes the build more expensive with springs and cutting down the valve guides etc

note that mopar changed the timing on 318 cams
373/399 240/248 10 50 58 10 (20) up to 1970 318
373/399 240/248 10 50 52 16 (26) 1971 72 -76 318
405/410 240/248 204/211/24 110LCA P4452755 LA {10 50 52 16 (26)
replacement
a little more lift/ area than stock shows 1500-5000
410/425 248/256 110lca P4452757AE LA 1000-5000 DC/ Mopar performance 248
Timing looks good but not a lot of lift/ area under the curve
you are looking for a cam with about these specs
458 305 lobe lift 246 @.008 202@.050 120@.200 64@.275
this cam is shorter on the seat but actually has more area than the DC 260 cam which would have too much duration for a stock build

Incidently that Crane/ Summit cam is the same as an
Elgin 1789P
"largest stock engine cam works best with 9:1 and gears 1,500-5200"

I posted this in the "cams how do you choose one" thread
From "MOPAR BUDGET BUILD mag article Edelbrock top end kit
Edelbrock Cam and Lifters, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 276/288, Lift .441/.441, Chrysler, Small Block same as
441 276/288 (54) 218/228 0 38 53 -5 109 LCA 109 ICL 119 excl Elgin 1223P (that's a long exhaust compared to intake and a narrow 109 LCA
but for example
The Summit Cam 454 272 216 110LCA Cam Dynamic/ Crane 15005 s 272 H10 1,800-5200 SUM-1789
455 272 (52) 216 3 34 33 4 110LCA 105 ICL 115 excl Elgin 1789P so a better choice than the Edelbrock/ Elgin 1223P
except I think a longer exhaust is required with stock exhaust and neither is a current MOPAR design
A MOPAR CRANE
480 276 220 136 (@200) 61 Crane .903 H3 H-220/320 here the 276 duration is at .004 just like Summit and Elgin a lot more area under the curve

IMHO you are better off with one of the three smallest Voodoos - Catalog p 20 a 276 voodoo or Howard (or comp) is BIGGER than a 276 Summit/ Crane/ Elgin so go 10 degrees shorter

Camshaft, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 255/261, Lift .479/.494, Howard HRS-711381-10 (110LCA)
Camshaft, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 256/262, Lift .454/.475, Lunati 701 Lunati all 112LCA

Camshaft, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 262/268, Lift .475/.494, Lunati 702
Camshaft, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 265/273, Lift .502/.525, Howard HRS-711651-10

Camshaft, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 268/276, Lift .494/.513, Lunati 703
couple of bucks more but shop around- well worth it

All of this conversation about cams has got me spinning. After a lot of research, my take away is, with a basic 318, changing the cam is a risky thing to do with not very much up-side. It seems like I can cause myself more problems by making a bad choice than any real benefit from an upgraded cam. Also, I just went to my bench and found the casting numbers on the heads....2465315, 1964-65 273 heads! I guess that when the previous owner had the engine rebuilt, they put the original 273 heads on. Is that a problem, does that take me further down a no-win road? The timing chain is sloppy, so adding a double roller timing set seems like a solid plan, after that maybe just put the old girl back together and get on with my restoration. If I want some real "zing in my thing" it seems that different gears might be more useful and give me some of that immediate gratification that I'm looking for. I already have a new performer intake, new long tube headers and an Edelbrock carb. that are going into the car....maybe this is as far as I should go down the rabbit hole. What do you guys think?

JeffreyLee said:

All of this conversation about cams has got me spinning. After a lot of research, my take away is, with a basic 318, changing the cam is a risky thing to do with not very much up-side. It seems like I can cause myself more problems by making a bad choice than any real benefit from an upgraded cam. Also, I just went to my bench and found the casting numbers on the heads....2465315, 1964-65 273 heads! I guess that when the previous owner had the engine rebuilt, they put the original 273 heads on. Is that a problem, does that take me further down a no-win road? The timing chain is sloppy, so adding a double roller timing set seems like a solid plan, after that maybe just put the old girl back together and get on with my restoration. If I want some real "zing in my thing" it seems that different gears might be more useful and give me some of that immediate gratification that I'm looking for. I already have a new performer intake, new long tube headers and an Edelbrock carb. that are going into the car....maybe this is as far as I should go down the rabbit hole. What do you guys think?

Click to expand...

I disagree with the cam swap being risky. Just make sure you do your homework and choose the right cam. I completely understand about all the cam choices being overwhelming and it being confusing. Just dont go to big. If you are running stock converter and high gears than obviously you do not want choose a cam with a really high duration and high rpm range. Any of the smaller cams are gonna be an improvement over stock just dont go to big. Stay under 454 lift and under 215@50 duration and around 1000-1200 starting rpms and you will be ok even with stock heads it will be an improvement. I started out not knowing anything about cams and I purchased a cam that wasnt the best fit and after learning here I sold it and am going with something else. Just start with figuring out your compression ratio and let's work from there.

From my research what iv learned I think this cam would be perfect for what we are trying to do. (My build is very similar to yours) it has fast ramps so its not gonna lower the dcr (dynamic compression ratio) it starts building at 1000rpm perfect for stock converters it's not over the top large so its not gonna hurt performance and the lift is not super high so we dont have to cut our valve guides. Honestly this is the one I'm probably gonna get.

Those 315s are closed chamber heads, a good thing. And might be as small as 57cc. If your pistons are down in the hole as is typically .050, then you might be able to squeeze 9.0 Scr out of that engine just the way it sits. ........ which at your altitude,2600feet, is still gonna be a problem with just about any off-the-shelf, hydraulic lifter cam,bigger than the current cam, you choose.
The factory cam (240/248/112) with an Ica of 48* is predicted to make 149psi/126VP very good numbers for a streeter,especially at 2600ft elevation. By 55*Ica, the pressure is down to 141/114, which is about what an 8.0 smog 318 makes at sealevel,(135/113). If you are happy with that 135/113 number then you can go up to that 55* Ica with your 9.0Scr......... but before you do, you would have to verify that 9.0, cuz if my math is screwed up, you're not gonna get that 141psi and you might not like me very much,lol.
The reason I mention the 55*Ica, is cuz it can be had on a cam that is almost 2 full sizes bigger than stock , giving you about 300 to 400 more rpm at the top with it's attending extra horsepower, if you go there. If you never or rarely go there, then there is no point to a bigger cam,cuz all it does is steal low-rpm performance as can be seen by the loss of 8 psi cylinder pressure, and 12 points VP.
The best way to combat that pressure loss is to give up the 112LSA which does nothing for performance in a ONE-GEAR car. That 112 is strictly there to prevent falling off the cam with the very wide 1-2 split in the stock TorqueFlite transmission. This is why earlier I recommended a custom cam with the Lsa tightened up to 108 or even less.
If you had a factory 240/248 cam but ground on a 108Lsa,(instead of 112) and installed it at the factory 108 Centerline, then your pressure would stay exactly the same, but the 108 would move the power peak up about 100 rpm, but more importantly the overlap would grow to 28*, up from 20*. That extra bit would normally create a bit more horsepower, on it's own ,WITH your new headers. So this is a double whammy to HP; namely the extra rpm and the Tight LSA power bulge; tripple when you consider no loss of cylinder pressure.
So knowing this, and also knowing that the ICA could be as late as 55* and still be equal to a smogger 318 at sealevel, this gives you the cam option of at least 2 bigger sizes, perhaps a tad more, but it will require a custom cam.
Soooo, I tried a 252/260/108 in at 106 and got
9.0Scr/7.8Dcr/145psi@119VP, and 40* overlap now, which is just 4* shy of what the 340 stick had.
That should get you about 400 to 500 more rpm, so you are gonna need springs.
IMO, this is a pretty good trade; 3psi/6points of VP/ plus 20* overlap. I'd slide that hummer in there and never look back.
BTW
A stock LA360 also at 2600ft might make 120psi/112VP...... so you are gonna smooooke those at your elevation, at least to the top of first gear.

So figure out your exact Scr, and call your fast-ramp cam specialist; paying particular attention to Wyrmriders post #53, there is a ton of good info in there, specifically as to whom to call.

How about just using a stock 340 or 360 cam. Either one should give a noticeable improvement over the 318 cam.
I'm currently doing a low budget build for my Duster with parts I have just to get the car running and mobile. I'm doing a .030 teen, #675 heads cleaned up, stock 360 cam, Action plus with spread bore, headers, factory high stall converter and 3.91 rear. Hope for 14's or low 15's out of this. Just a thought.

JeffreyLee said:

All of this conversation about cams has got me spinning. After a lot of research, my take away is, with a basic 318, changing the cam is a risky thing to do with not very much up-side. It seems like I can cause myself more problems by making a bad choice than any real benefit from an upgraded cam. Also, I just went to my bench and found the casting numbers on the heads....2465315, 1964-65 273 heads! I guess that when the previous owner had the engine rebuilt, they put the original 273 heads on. Is that a problem, does that take me further down a no-win road? The timing chain is sloppy, so adding a double roller timing set seems like a solid plan, after that maybe just put the old girl back together and get on with my restoration. If I want some real "zing in my thing" it seems that different gears might be more useful and give me some of that immediate gratification that I'm looking for. I already have a new performer intake, new long tube headers and an Edelbrock carb. that are going into the car....maybe this is as far as I should go down the rabbit hole. What do you guys think?

Click to expand...

AJ/FormS said:

Those 315s are closed chamber heads, a good thing. And might be as small as 57cc. If your pistons are down in the hole as is typically .050, then you might be able to squeeze 9.0 Scr out of that engine just the way it sits. ........ which at your altitude,2600feet, is still gonna be a problem with just about any off-the-shelf, hydraulic lifter cam,bigger than the current cam, you choose.
The factory cam (240/248/112) with an Ica of 48* is predicted to make 149psi/126VP very good numbers for a streeter,especially at 2600ft elevation. By 55*Ica, the pressure is down to 141/114, which is about what an 8.0 smog 318 makes at sealevel,(135/113). If you are happy with that 135/113 number then you can go up to that 55* Ica with your 9.0Scr......... but before you do, you would have to verify that 9.0, cuz if my math is screwed up, you're not gonna get that 141psi and you might not like me very much,lol.
The reason I mention the 55*Ica, is cuz it can be had on a cam that is almost 2 full sizes bigger than stock , giving you about 300 to 400 more rpm at the top with it's attending extra horsepower, if you go there. If you never or rarely go there, then there is no point to a bigger cam,cuz all it does is steal low-rpm performance as can be seen by the loss of 8 psi cylinder pressure, and 12 points VP.
The best way to combat that pressure loss is to give up the 112LSA which does nothing for performance in a ONE-GEAR car. That 112 is strictly there to prevent falling off the cam with the very wide 1-2 split in the stock TorqueFlite transmission. This is why earlier I recommended a custom cam with the Lsa tightened up to 108 or even less.
If you had a factory 240/248 cam but ground on a 108Lsa,(instead of 112) and installed it at the factory 108 Centerline, then your pressure would stay exactly the same, but the 108 would move the power peak up about 100 rpm, but more importantly the overlap would grow to 28*, up from 20*. That extra bit would normally create a bit more horsepower, on it's own ,WITH your new headers. So this is a double whammy to HP; namely the extra rpm and the Tight LSA power bulge; tripple when you consider no loss of cylinder pressure.
So knowing this, and also knowing that the ICA could be as late as 55* and still be equal to a smogger 318 at sealevel, this gives you the cam option of at least 2 bigger sizes, perhaps a tad more, but it will require a custom cam.
Soooo, I tried a 252/260/108 in at 106 and got
9.0Scr/7.8Dcr/145psi@119VP, and 40* overlap now, which is just 4* shy of what the 340 stick had.
That should get you about 400 to 500 more rpm, so you are gonna need springs.
IMO, this is a pretty good trade; 3psi/6points of VP/ plus 20* overlap. I'd slide that hummer in there and never look back.
BTW
A stock LA360 also at 2600ft might make 120psi/112VP...... so you are gonna smooooke those at your elevation, at least to the top of first gear.

So figure out your exact Scr, and call your fast-ramp cam specialist; paying particular attention to Wyrmriders post #53, there is a ton of good info in there, specifically as to whom to call.

Click to expand...

Woah! let's back up the bus. #315 heads are 64 and 65 273 heads and require a specific intake manifold or modified 66 and newer small block manifold. @JeffreyLee , you need to crawl underneath and make sure you don't see "273" cast into the side of the block. It sounds like the "It's a 318" is just a story. It wouldn't hurt to make sure.

gliderider06 said:

How about just using a stock 340 or 360 cam. Either one should give a noticeable improvement over the 318 cam.
I'm currently doing a low budget build for my Duster with parts I have just to get the car running and mobile. I'm doing a .030 teen, #675 heads cleaned up, stock 360 cam, Action plus with spread bore, headers, factory high stall converter and 3.91 rear. Hope for 14's or low 15's out of this. Just a thought.

Click to expand...

high 13's with some tuning. I like your combo.

toolmanmike said:

Woah! let's back up the bus. #315 heads are 64 and 65 273 heads and require a specific intake manifold or modified 66 and newer small block manifold. @JeffreyLee , you need to crawl underneath and make sure you don't see "273" cast into the side of the block. It sounds like the "It's a 318" is just a story. It wouldn't hurt to make sure.

Click to expand...

Hi Mike,
I know.....freaks me out a little. Casting numbers are clear. I expected heads to just be a matching set of 318 heads. I have the performer intake to go along for the ride. Is this some kind of a hodge-podge?

JeffreyLee said:

Hi Mike,
I know.....freaks me out a little. Casting numbers are clear. I expected heads to just be a matching set of 318 heads. I have the performer intake to go along for the ride. Is this some kind of a hodge-podge?
View attachment 1715237850 View attachment 1715237852 View attachment 1715237853

Click to expand...

Nothing that can't be overcome. The 64 and 65 273 heads had a different intake bolt angle and smaller bolts than the 66 and newer heads had. Your intake is made for the 66 and newer heads and to use it you will have to do some modifying. Let me see if I can find a thread.

Still looking. The old Edelbrock D4B is made for the early 273 heads. They come up for sale occasionally.

Would I be better off shopping around for a used set of 318, 340, 360 heads? Buying a new set of aluminum heads is an option, but expensive and ultimately not really worth the cost? I want to do this right. I'm not an experienced engine rebuilder of course, but I'm learning as I go. The help that you and all of the FABO members provide is the only way I can go forward with confidence....I'm really grateful for that. I do have a local mechanic that will come to me and help when I really need it but he is very busy and not readily available. So, I'm kind of on my own here.

toolmanmike said:

Woah! let's back up the bus. #315 heads are 64 and 65 273 heads and require a specific intake manifold or modified 66 and newer small block manifold. @JeffreyLee , you need to crawl underneath and make sure you don't see "273" cast into the side of the block. It sounds like the "It's a 318" is just a story. It wouldn't hurt to make sure.

Click to expand...

Good catch Mike, and great advice

Jeff your biggest enemy is your altitude, which Wiki says is 2600ft This will cost you about 15psi over sealevel. But worse is the 11 points of VP.

recap post 56 and the comp cam nothing wrong with the timing but can be directly compared with
Camshaft, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 255/261, Lift .479/.494, Howard HRS-711381-10 (110LCA)
Camshaft, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 256/262, Lift .454/.475, Lunati 701 Lunati all 112LCA
the comp cam has less torque/ power
post 58
the stock 50 year old 340 grind designed to hide exhaust seat rescission with really long closing ramps then repurposed as a smog cam with lots of exhaust gas dillution of the intake charge really terrible in a low compression motor sorta works with low gears when it's spun up
360 2bbl in a 318 works but still a lot of duration for the amount of lift- breating
BTW when I talk about a big cam I'm thinking duration

Wyrmrider said:

the stock 50 year old 340 grind designed to hide exhaust seat rescission with really long closing ramps then repurposed as a smog cam with lots of exhaust gas dillution of the intake charge really terrible in a low compression motor sorta works with low gears when it's spun up

Click to expand...

Exactly my experience, exactly.
yet everybody and his dog bites me when I mention how terrible that cam is in a smog teener.

Looking at the pictures.... man those pistons sit way down in the hole. I'd buy a Summit Racing CC kit and CC the heads. Find out exactly what compression you're running before making a cam choice.

JeffreyLee said:

Would I be better off shopping around for a used set of 318, 340, 360 heads? Buying a new set of aluminum heads is an option, but expensive and ultimately not really worth the cost? I want to do this right. I'm not an experienced engine rebuilder of course, but I'm learning as I go. The help that you and all of the FABO members provide is the only way I can go forward with confidence....I'm really grateful for that. I do have a local mechanic that will come to me and help when I really need it but he is very busy and not readily available. So, I'm kind of on my own here.

Click to expand...

For a 318 the 273 heads work well. The chambers are small and efficient and the ports are pretty much the same as any 318 head. The fact that they are a 64/65 head with the odd intake bolt angle and size is the only downfall. If you use your heads, you will have to modify a intake, unless it's built for those early heads.

I have pretty well decided that purchasing a new set of Edelbrock 60779 aluminum heads is the way to go. Correct fittment to the block, compatible with my intake and compatible with stock rocker arms and pushrods. Add a double roller timing set and we're good to go. Yes? The only thing that has me still undecided is the damn cam thing. Since the engine has already been rebuilt and the cam lobes look good, how important is it in this process to make a change? Given my limited experience, is there a solid cam/lifter combo that would help significantly and keep me in the safe zone here?

I have never bought aluminum's but most recommend sending them off to the machine shop to be checked before bolting them on. Sometimes there's tight guides or valve sealing issues. Just saying.

You be in big trouble then
To properly get the most from aluminum heads, the Dcr needs to be way up there.
If all you want is 155/160 psi pressure you are leaving the best, or maybe the second best of those heads , untapped.
They come alive at 170 psi, become a terror at 185, and some guys are running 200PSI or a tic over, still on pumpgas. I have been to 185 on 87E10 for 4 years, and that was the best doggone street combo I ever had.
It is very difficult/expensive to get to 185plus with a 318.

If I get to do it over again in my life, I'm gonna push 200psi, and
there is no way I would run stock arms or pushrods, and
if I'm buying arms, they will be 1.6s.Then, the cam will be for street use, so about mid 220s @.050. This combo will make so much torque, I will have to run a traction aid, so it won't spinout at every traffic-lite, and so I can pass slower traffic on the hiway using WOT, and not get killed when changing lanes.

For your teener to get 180psi at 2600ft with a modest cam (64*ICA), will require about 11.5 Scr, to get 9.1Dcr/180psi@133VP.
How are you gonna get to 11.5 with your 318? This requires a chamber volume of 652/10.5=62.1cc good luck. 60779s are born at 63cc, you need to run a minimum Q of mid 20s so that's the 6.5cc gasket. the cam you run is probably gonna want some eyebrows, and with the 2.02s this is gonna be about 5cc; so at Zero deck your chambers are already; 62+6.5+5=73.5, making your static CR 9.87....... 9.87 is a long long way from 11.5

With the same modest cam as before (64*ICA), your new numbers are
9.87/7.88/146/109VP....... 109 is less than what a smog 318 makes, so you are gonna be a very unhappy man til the engine gets up on the cam, probably at about 3500rpm. And the next expense will be a big TC, followed hotly by rear gears.
So now you have heads capable of 400hp easy enough, and a cam that might make 300 in your 318 combo, and the damn car can't even hardly spin the tires, unless you spend another $1000 on a TC and gears..

Now don't get me wrong; I have those heads on my 367 which at zero deck makes about 11.1 Scr, with the only additional expense being the decking. And I can say with complete confidence that these are really nice heads, in and of themselves, but man they really come alive at over 185psi. And I can also say, that at a predicted 146psi, I'd rather have iron heads, and closed chambers are waaay better for a streeter.
Those are my opinions.
To be fair, I have never put aluminum heads on any 318, much less a low-compression one. And the principle factor in that is the expense of getting the Dcr up, to use a proper cam, to get the most out of those heads.

Now I'll tell you thing, if you put the factory cam back in there( with it's 48* ICA) and the Eddies, well then at zero deck, she will be a torque monster, with new numbers of
9.87/8.73Dcr/169psi@141VP. With these numbers, you can keep your current TC and current gears, and will have a tire-fryer probably all the way thru first gear (if the TC does it's job) to 4800rpm or over 50 mph with 2.71zzzzzzzzz.
But the clincher is you can bolt on some iron heads, and leave the pistons down in the holes a bit, and do almost the exact same thing, with maybe a lil less tirespin on the top.
With the pistons down .057, and a .028 gasket, flat-tops no eyebrows, and closed chamber 1967 up heads @60cc, your engine can make
9.4scr/7.3/158psi@132VP, still with the factory ICA of 48* . 132 is a very good number for a 318. A TC and gears will make this very competitive as a streeter, for waaaay less money than the 60779s, and the bonus is that this combo will probably be very happy with 89 gas, less when cruising.
And you have room to grow; with the pistons down at .057 you can add enough compression by decking, to run a cam 2 or three sizes bigger, and not suffer the loss-of-low-rpm that normally accompanies such a change.
The point is this; the simultaneous loss of cylinder pressure of 63cc heads, over your spec'd 57s, and them also being aluminum, is, IMO a poor trade-off. Will the Eddies increase your power? Maybe, with camming. But the trade off is slanty torque at low-rpm, requiring the bigger TC and gears to compensate; poor trade-offs for a streeter; which needs grunt every single time you take off, and every single time it shifts; especially into second.

The Edelbrock aluminum heads would be a lot of buck for the bang on a basically stock 318. Save some $$$. The late 318 heads had a similar closed chamber similar to 273 heads. Look for casting number ending in 302. Found in late 80's Fifth Avenues, Diplomats, Furies, trucks , vans, Ramchargers, etc... Rebuild with 360 valves with a good "bowl cut" and you'll have some pretty decent cheap heads that will give you a compression boost especially if you use the thin steel head gaskets. The Summit 1789 cam would be OK with this combo.

What Aj says but the best choice- you can change the pistons later to get the CR up
DO you know what cam is in it now- if good stock would keep your DCR up
Still basically the same choice on the intake lobe- you do not need such a long exhaust as the exhaust port is bigger with Al or 360 heads which kill your DCR
302 heads are another good choice
I do not trust Jegs pics as they show the same combustion chamber for the 340 Edelbrock head when we know the early 340 piston sticks out of the block requiring a relieved sorta open combustion chamber- you need the closed chamber head Edelbrock or the other choices- shop carefully we have not addressed al heads and there are several good choices and a couple of good Iron choices
looking at my notes the stock 318 cam is 240 MOPAR degrees on the intake and as I posted above they changed the lobe centers along the way- early was 109
in Crane, Summit, Elgin degrees it would be over 250 (some show 264 due to long ramps)
here's the raw data
351/351 no adv given ` 181/192 109LCA Sealed Power CS-645 273-318 stock
368/398 250/260 184/194 110LCA 105 ICL-115EXCL WG-1183 Wolverine 318 replacement
here's the shortest .904 (except truck cams) in this case a Bullit
.405 .2700 239@.006 189@.050 203@200 Bullit HC 239/270 shortest Bullet so more lift and about the same seat duration you do not need to go this short with a stick and medium gears (that's IMHO)
do not do all this work and stick a chevy cam in it- you loose too much torque

The 410 lift 252 MOPAR duration360 cam (12 degrees larger than yours) is 278 in Crane/ Summit/ Elgin degrees (the long ramps show up more at .004) so not a good choice

.461 (.305 lobe) 264@.004 202 @.050 120@200 Jones Special (this one is about 256 .006 but is shorter than the two following at .004
it is 246 @.008 to compare with MOPAR timing (6 Mopar degrees shorter than the MOPAR 360 cam with .050 more lift- much more area under the curve)
given that you have a stick and medium gears you can shoot for a cam in this range - either this one with an appropriate exhaust lobe and lca
or one of the others posted above
Camshaft, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 255/261, Lift .479/.494, Howard HRS-711381-10 (110LCA)
Camshaft, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 256/262, Lift .454/.475, Lunati 701 Lunati all 112LCA
all of these are much more area under the curve than the 256 comp
what do you figure your cr is with the Edelbrock heads?
guys are the Edelbrock head cc's ok OTB? any other head choices with small cc's and closed chambers?
you mentioned solid cam yes they really work well adj iron rockers work fine