SLANTY BLUES

You can make the adjustables work,right up until the pushrod hits the arm and gets spit out. But you lose lift and duration cuz the geometry is screwed up. You can prove this with a dial-indicator and a degree wheel.
But worse is the side-pressure this puts on the valve stems, and the guides, perhaps wearing them out prematurely.

I do not have a catch can on the radiator. On torquing the head down I snug them down@ 45 # starting in the middle and working out left and right, then again @ 75 # I believe was what it's was. ( what ever the specs were that I looked up)

The dog house just gets fresh air from through the grill, The van still has the sheet metal underneath to direct the air through the radiator and dog house. NO cool fresh air to the carb.

first thing I did was pull the plugs.( I had already drained most the coolant out the petcock .)
spun the engine over with the starter, 2-6 spit coolant out, didn't notice any out of #1 (?) Which might explain the others being cleaner. #1 is more burnt looking than carboned up. (Note the white specks at top of piston).
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Here are the plugs #1 - 5 -620181026_103017.jpg


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and the head20181026_103505.jpg 20181026_103512.jpg 20181026_103602.jpg 20181026_103713.jpg 20181026_103751.jpg

These last 2 are with the gasket. No hole in head as in gasket. The push spot on the fire ring I believe was from comp. Head came off easy.

I had the timing at 10* at idle don't remember what the full advance was at. I remember on the original engine I had it at @34* full advance and wanted this new engine lower, maybe it was around 30*. Let me throw this in the mix, I also installed a Oregon Cam everyone recommended .Not much , but thats all the specs I have on it.

I'm going to drop the oil pan and put new rod bearings in while it's down. I didn't like all the hydrolocking going on while trying to load the van the day I towed it home. And I'll check the push rods for clearance . Thanks AL.
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