jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
Pompous? Now you're narrowing it down. Have fun building your car. Wish granted.
Blue Brick
- Thread starter go-fish
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Pompous? Now you're narrowing it down. Have fun building your car. Wish granted.
clifftt
Well-Known Member
Manual steering? Going with a box or converting to a rack and pinion?
I am going to be sending the manual box to Steer and Gear to get rebuilt. I asked them if they had a rebuild kit but they don’t have one for manual boxes because it takes a special tool to rebuild. No rack. I’m looking at the EPAS and it’s very impressive. Since I have manual steering now it would only be a few hundred more dollars than if I bought a Borgeson box with all the ancillary components for hydraulic power steering.
Does anyone have any thoughts on the EPAS systems that are on the market? I’ve read enough to know I want one but do I need power steering for auto cross? If I need p/s then I think a little extra investment for EPAS would be pretty neat.
Just ordered Dr. Diff Viper brake kit with the Mercedes rotors. Cass says they will work fine with the manual 15/16” bore master cylinder. Forgot to ask him if it increases the track width.
autoxcuda
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Yes. Power steering. Manual steering is only 16:1 with fast ratio gear. With wide front grippy tires
Borgenson is 14.5:1 ratio. Use an aluminum bodied pump for weight. You’ll need to fab mounting brackets.
Did Tom run manual steering?
Mitch Lelito was nationally competitive with his 70 Challenger in E-Street Prepared and switched to power years ago.
autoxcuda
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adriver
Blazing Apostle
You said you are going to run an E body in road racing and the A body is for autocross?
I not that familiar with any of this although I think understand the basic differences.
My question is why not run the A body in road racing?
The A body should do everything the E body does and be lighter?
Did the Green Brick not run in road racing courses?
IIRC Petty continued to run a Road Runner in the sort road courses because aero was not that important in them.
I can only guess there are some restrictions in modification that can be done associated with rules about classes.
I not that familiar with any of this although I think understand the basic differences.
My question is why not run the A body in road racing?
The A body should do everything the E body does and be lighter?
Did the Green Brick not run in road racing courses?
IIRC Petty continued to run a Road Runner in the sort road courses because aero was not that important in them.
I can only guess there are some restrictions in modification that can be done associated with rules about classes.
autoxcuda
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Either way vice versa.
But if you are get real competitive with auto-cross, whatever the car, the refined setup would typically need some changes for a track day car. Especially if it was a fast track without a lot of tight turns. And you wouldn’t run/waste a supersoft autocross tire on the track.
I emailed him about his Stage 4 front brake kit and he informed me he had one left in stock but he had a new kit that uses 03+ Viper calipers and Mercedes one piece rotors and there is an upgrade to Baer 2 piece rotors for an additional $695. I didn’t see these kits on the website.
I opted for the one with MB rotors.
The road racing won’t be happening for a long time. Years. I’m not anticipating anything competitive, closer to track day stuff, unless I move closer to a big track.
I can autocross just about every weekend by just driving down to the stadium(20 mi) or up to Autoclub Speedway (about an hour). It’s just more accessible.
autoxcuda
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Cars like we have are not going to fit in any road race class. So you run them at track fun-day events. You can run the same car you autocross with, just take some rear roll resistance out, like rear sway bar). And IF you autocross with “autocross only” tires, you would not run those of course. And you’d have other tires anyways.
unless you build a trans am repli-car that’s a full caged race car with trailer type deal...VARA, SVRA etc type events.
I would like to talk with yo at the Fall Fling. I am just beginning to learn and seek advice from knowledgeable people like yourself. I am just trying to put together a simple car and expand on it's basic OEM parts (better geometry suspension, smart spring rates, chassis stiffening).
Would you recommend any books on driving / any other resources that would help me understand suspension geometry and dynamics as it affects car set up and driving?
joes68340s
Well-Known Member
Interesting how this sounds so familiar. Good luck with it.
My car is different it is a '68 Barracuda... but same brakes more or less. Here is what I had to do to clear my tires:
1968 Barracuda Front Fender Modification for 26" Tires
Mosley, that is a beautiful color and wheel combo on your Barracuda.
Joe, good to see you in the thread.
Plans are changing a little bit. I was planning on converting to an 833 but I am not happy with available ratios in the 23 spline box and the 18 spline box with Passon’s 4 speed overdrive Hemi box puts doing the 4 speed conversion into the T56 price point. I’ve been in contact with Ariel Alvarez and will be going through him to get all necessary parts to do the 6 speed. It will greatly expand the car’s range thus expanding enjoyment.
I have ordered Dr. Diff’s Viper brake kit and ordered the 03+ calipers from Viper Parts Rack. It was the cheapest price on the internet and they threw in a free set of pads.
I went to the Fall Fling in Van Nuys and bought almost a complete interior and had a great Father Son day with my 6 year old. He got some Hot Wheels and really enjoyed seeing all the car parts and tools in the swap meet and cars in the show. He could play with tools all day. I bought him a rubber mallet to satisfy him (and I need one anyway). He promised me I could borrow it anytime I wanted.
After a conversation at the Fling I will be reconsidering purchasing the Hotchkis TVS. I’ve been looking at other offerings from Bergman. Also, I’m trying to figure out a way to keep my manual box. It might be a combination of EPAS/ Firm Feel 16:1 manual box rebuild kit or 20:1 stock rebuild with a 2:1 Howe quickener making it 10:1. I would like to stay away from hydraulically assisted steering if I can.
I will be tearing the 318 down to a short block and putting new gaskets on and putting on a Milodon road race pan, pick up and windage tray. Found out the Edelbrock heads are ported. Probably going with FITech on it. I do have a Procharged 408 in a cuda that I will eventually use but I want to go na with it and it will need pistons, cam, and lifters. The 408 is on the back burner and I’ll just be freshening up the mystery 318.
Much more floating around in my head but these are the things I will be taking action on this week.
Joe, good to see you in the thread.
Plans are changing a little bit. I was planning on converting to an 833 but I am not happy with available ratios in the 23 spline box and the 18 spline box with Passon’s 4 speed overdrive Hemi box puts doing the 4 speed conversion into the T56 price point. I’ve been in contact with Ariel Alvarez and will be going through him to get all necessary parts to do the 6 speed. It will greatly expand the car’s range thus expanding enjoyment.
I have ordered Dr. Diff’s Viper brake kit and ordered the 03+ calipers from Viper Parts Rack. It was the cheapest price on the internet and they threw in a free set of pads.
I went to the Fall Fling in Van Nuys and bought almost a complete interior and had a great Father Son day with my 6 year old. He got some Hot Wheels and really enjoyed seeing all the car parts and tools in the swap meet and cars in the show. He could play with tools all day. I bought him a rubber mallet to satisfy him (and I need one anyway). He promised me I could borrow it anytime I wanted.
After a conversation at the Fling I will be reconsidering purchasing the Hotchkis TVS. I’ve been looking at other offerings from Bergman. Also, I’m trying to figure out a way to keep my manual box. It might be a combination of EPAS/ Firm Feel 16:1 manual box rebuild kit or 20:1 stock rebuild with a 2:1 Howe quickener making it 10:1. I would like to stay away from hydraulically assisted steering if I can.
I will be tearing the 318 down to a short block and putting new gaskets on and putting on a Milodon road race pan, pick up and windage tray. Found out the Edelbrock heads are ported. Probably going with FITech on it. I do have a Procharged 408 in a cuda that I will eventually use but I want to go na with it and it will need pistons, cam, and lifters. The 408 is on the back burner and I’ll just be freshening up the mystery 318.
Much more floating around in my head but these are the things I will be taking action on this week.
What I know about this engine is that it’s a 318, has ported Edelbrock heads, there is gobs of RTV, was really oily but didn’t have any leaks per se, and there was some scale in the coolant passages like someone put tap water in it. It’s a damn strong engine and will do for awhile but it’s not the final solution for motivation.
The shopping list consists of full gasket set, FITech efi, TTi shorties, 318/340 Milodon rr pan, valve covers, water neck, miscellaneous bolts to replace cobbled together set of fasteners someone threw at it, fittings for the intake (the water neck and heater core bypass fittings were really corroded).
I was looking forward to a different power plant for the car but with going to a T56 set up and possibly EPAS I figure it will free up funds to get the “might as well’s”.
The shopping list consists of full gasket set, FITech efi, TTi shorties, 318/340 Milodon rr pan, valve covers, water neck, miscellaneous bolts to replace cobbled together set of fasteners someone threw at it, fittings for the intake (the water neck and heater core bypass fittings were really corroded).
I was looking forward to a different power plant for the car but with going to a T56 set up and possibly EPAS I figure it will free up funds to get the “might as well’s”.
The T56 takes a quite a bit of modification to make it fit:
Kind of can pass as a stock 4 speed:
Here’s some bad stuff.
I was wanting to just put gaskets and maybe cam and lifters in this thing and call it good. How the hell does the crank about get pinged up like that? And how does somebody strip the crank bolt like that? What’s causing the corrosion? Tap water?
I was wanting to just put gaskets and maybe cam and lifters in this thing and call it good. How the hell does the crank about get pinged up like that? And how does somebody strip the crank bolt like that? What’s causing the corrosion? Tap water?
So now I’m thinking about a 392” out of the 318. I ordered up a Milodon roadrace pan, hv oil pump, high pressure spring, pickup, and Milodon crush proof gasket. I plan on porting the oil pump outlet and main cap inlet. Was looking at other oiling mods but I did this with a 408” and had great oil pressure so I think it’ll be good since I don’t plan on sustained rpm above 6000
lilfontleroy
annoyinglilLeroy
tap water and time just sitting as in neglect . that really sucks about the crank bolt threads and it looks like the damage to the crank might be terminal
lilfontleroy
annoyinglilLeroy
then again it is just a 318 that you have already said you dont plan to keep, clean it up the best you can and jam it together and see what happens!
lilfontleroy
annoyinglilLeroy
BTW you dont have enough projects 
lilfontleroy
annoyinglilLeroy
I get ya, I was referring to the 9 other cars in the photo
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