building a 383 Stroker with Factory parts help needed

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Bigboy 68

Bigboy 68

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I want to build a 383 Stroker with Factory parts can someone please give me a parts list and what has to be done thank you I believe I need a 440 crank and have to have it turn down and I believe I need 440 rods which I have can you tell me if this is correct thank you
 
Yes that is correct. A 440 crank and 440 rods will make a low deck 426 in a standard bore 383 block. The hard part is finding a machine shop who is willing to that work. You might find that it is cheaper and easier to just sell the 440 crank and then buy a new stroker crank. I used to build stroker motors using factory parts but that was 20 years ago. I wouldn't bother doing it these days but I won't stop you if that is what turns your crank.
 
Sonic check the blocks cylinders so you know where you stand exactly. Is this a “On the Cheap?” build?
 
Check out 440 source. There is a lot of good information on that site regarding big block mopars and strokers.
 
I went this route. Cheaper to buy the 3.75" crank from 440 source for 383 mains. It's a beautiful crank, my machinist checked it and had no complaints.
What pistons are you going to use?
 
The cost to turn down a cast 440 crank's mains AND clearance the throws to fit the 383 PLUS a balance job will be more than a new cast stroker crank and a balance. If your going forged, ask yourself why would a forged be needed. B/RB cranks are tough.
 
With the pistons you need, it would be cheaper to buy a kit.
Edit - parts and machining on the crank...
 
guys I appreciate all the responses I will have to get a set of custom Pistons as my block is 40 over and I extremely appreciate the advice I just thought since I had it crank and rods it would be a little cheaper thanks for all the replies
 
Not once you get into having to pay to cut the crank and counterweights down. Might be a little cheaper redoing factory rods with good bolts, but you're still spending.
 
pishta said:
The cost to turn down a cast 440 crank's mains AND clearance the throws to fit the 383 PLUS a balance job will be more than a new cast stroker crank and a balance. If your going forged, ask yourself why would a forged be needed. B/RB cranks are tough.
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Agreed...I called my local Machine Shop and they wanted $300 to cut the crank and the CW’s...not bad I thought...then they want another $600 to balance it!!!

So now I’m back at buying a complete kit and it’s balanced!!!

It really is cheaper Like everyone is saying... I’ve looked at every angle on this to beat the kit prices and you can’t do it!!
 
Bigboy 68 said:
guys I appreciate all the responses I will have to get a set of custom Pistons as my block is 40 over and I extremely appreciate the advice I just thought since I had it crank and rods it would be a little cheaper thanks for all the replies
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I went the custom route. Compression height was 1.320 off the shelf Diamond Piston. Had the pin moved to 1.340 to prevent having to mill the deck a bunch. $60 charge for the full set of pistons. That's way cheaper than decking a block, and potentially having to deal with machining an intake manifold to fit correctly.
 
i did a 383 w440 crank and 400 w440 crank.The one I just did the balance job was 500 on the assembly. I wasn't expecting that. If the 440source balance job is as good as guys say, I'd just buy a kit from them.
 
For what it is worth about 440source.com, I just got my 512 stroker kit for my 440 block and I got my engine machined to fit it. When the performance shop put weighed everything for bobweights and tested the crank, it was great. Almost perfectly balanced. They could not believe how well balanced it was. Now I have everything and will begin the assembly this weekend.
 
Tsully said:
Agreed...I called my local Machine Shop and they wanted $300 to cut the crank and the CW’s...not bad I thought...then they want another $600 to balance it!!!

So now I’m back at buying a complete kit and it’s balanced!!!

It really is cheaper Like everyone is saying... I’ve looked at every angle on this to beat the kit prices and you can’t do it!!
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wait up...$600 to balance it? Holy shmolly, are they using gold as the added weight? My shop charges $75 to balance a crank (plus tungsten) if you bring in 1 equalized piston pack (you can do that yourself with a good scale and a belt sander) The guy told me the weight on the little end is the only thing you need to touch to get the 8 all the same weight, same with the 8 cap pad, then you weight all the bolts, nuts, bearings, pistons and pins and grind on them all to get them to equal the lightest of of the series. Pistons were the worst in my case. Had to take weight out of the pin as there was little to take out of the AL piston itself. My pistons were lighter than stockers so there was no added tungsten, and the cast stroker crank was very close to stock bobweight. Balancing the rods with a fixture to weigh the big and little ends as a unit is way too anal, NASCAR stuff says he.
 
pishta said:
wait up...$600 to balance it? Holy shmolly, are they using gold as the added weight? My shop charges $75 to balance a crank (plus tungsten) if you bring in 1 equalized piston pack (you can do that yourself with a good scale and a belt sander) The guy told me the weight on the little end is the only thing you need to touch to get the 8 all the same weight, same with the 8 cap pad, then you weight all the bolts, nuts, bearings, pistons and pins and grind on them all to get them to equal the lightest of of the series. Pistons were the worst in my case. Had to take weight out of the pin as there was little to take out of the AL piston itself. My pistons were lighter than stockers so there was no added tungsten, and the cast stroker crank was very close to stock bobweight. Balancing the rods with a fixture to weigh the big and little ends as a unit is way too anal, NASCAR stuff says he.
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Yeah they’re aren’t many options locally that balance cranks so maybe that’s why he’s thinking he can charge what ever he wants. I know how to balance pistons and rods...cranks are a different animal.

I even tried the local tech schools but none of them do crank work... so now I’m back at one!

I’ve got one of my best friends checking on something near him in NC...so hopefully they’ll come back with a different number...if not it’s 440 Source all the way!!!
 
Grinding/milling on aluminum parts (especially) is asking for stress riser issues. The spread on decent parts is almost always less than the 6gms or so Hines(etc) specs for oil weight variance. Engineers, competent ones anyways, spec certain surface finishes for generally good reasons.

Unless you're going from light parts to heavy, like aluminum rods back to steel, you're almost never going to need to add metal to a mopar crank. Generally, the machinist is pissed that he's going to want/need to lathe turn the damned thing because it's needs 200+ gms remove and that's some serious drilling.

Generally, most places price jobs they really don't want to do like what you were quoted, rather than just say "no." Only in rural areas, generally, is the price of competent labor low enough to justify turning consumer type cranks. Even the big diesel shops are selling off their crank grinders because UPS/FedEx or the trucking company is far cheaper than an experienced and competent machinist. Now if I were God-Emperor, trucking would be expensive because about 25+% of steering wheel holders would be deported or blacklisted from ever holding a CDL, and 50% plus of trucking company executives, brokers and managers would simply be hanged but that's another conversation. S/F....Ken M
 
My shop (and most of them) charge $100 to balance a crank and assy. Built a 451, had a crank shop turn down a 440 crank and cut the counterweights to clear the block, plus re grind all journals to .010 under, ($400) Bought a used forged crank and rods (175) Bought Ross pistons (600), then running around (100). So that's $1375 for a balanced assembly. Oh yeah, assemble pistons to rods, $25. So 1400 and alot of time. You can do it on the cheap if you have access to the machine shops. I'm in Denver, so wasn't a problem. You being in St George, prob should just order the kit since you don't have the shops nearby.
 
And go with the 4.25" crank. Then you get 496 Cubes, same price. I have one and it runs great! Also, try to go with as little overbore as possible. Boring always compromises strength.
 
I talked to the shop I use and he didn't even want to attempt it said it wasn't worth it so I'm calling around to a couple other shops in the area as maybe it's not best for him to build my motor
 
Bigboy 68 said:
I talked to the shop I use and he didn't even want to attempt it said it wasn't worth it so I'm calling around to a couple other shops in the area as maybe it's not best for him to build my motor
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Main problem is getting the main journals ground to fit a 400 block. It really isn't hard to do, if you have a good machinist. The rods journals are already the same size on a 383, 400, or 440 crank. Then you may need to clearance the block in a few spots with a hand grinder. From there on, it's just basic engine assembly. I like to use the 440 rods with a 1.320 compression height piston. Then you end up about .017 below deck. Use a closed chamber head with a .020 head gasket, for good quench, and that thing will fly!
 
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