Pics of 4 link systems

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fishy68

Tyr Fryr's Inc.
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Anyone here done a 4 link on their A-body? If so I'd sure like to see some pics. Especially of cars with full exhaust systems cause I'd like to retain tailpipes. Thinking about doing it on my Cuda over the winter. Haven't decided which would be better/easier to do, parallel 4 link with panhard bar or triangulated 4 link

Thanks, Tracy
 
If you're gonna four link, thank about what you want it to do and why.

Parallel is not great unless it the front end of a 4x4. (Even then it's not great)

You need to think about the total arc you want vs. The deflection of your joints.

Drag race, auto cross?
 
Mostly street driving but it needs to hook up good. I have a full CalTrac system (springs, bars and adjustable shocks) on it now and can't say it really hooks much better than the stock leaf springs. I have 275/60/15 Mickey drag SS radials on it. The main thing(s) I don't like about the Caltrac setup is the harsh ride and the right spring squeaks. I can probably take the spring apart and grease it to stop the squeaking but that won't do anything for the ride
 
Curious, why don't you like parallel? I've rebuilt numerous stock suspensions over the last 35 yrs. but new to the performance aspect of them
 
Parallel is just a ladder bar with an adjustable instant center.

Do you need to adjust you instant center?
 
Both do the same thing.
They center the axle.

The difference is the amount of twist in the joint. Where do you want twist.







Call track it some what of a gimmick in my opinion.

All these systems come down to instant center.

If your pushing high your front end lifts, push low and blow the tires off..
 
Parallel is just a ladder bar with an adjustable instant center.

Do you need to adjust you instant center?
Not sure. Just toying with the idea. As I mentioned above I'm green when it comes to high perf rear suspensions and i'm looking for something that'll hook better and ride better. It also looks like it may give me a little more tire clearance that the leaf springs so I can get the next wider tire under it. I just found a book on Amazon I'm thinking about ordering. Seems Chris Alston has quite a bit of input on the subject so I think I can trust it

Thanks for your replies
 
If your gonna remove the frame rails and back half the car, go triangle.
 
If your gonna remove the frame rails and back half the car, go triangle.
Wasn't planning on going that far. I've seen pics online of a couple systems that install without ripping out the whole back end. Can't afford one of those high dollar setups but I have the tools and ability to build my own. Just looking for input, and hopefully some pics of guys here that did their own
 
I'm building both, first I'm building a parallel for our shop truck, because that's easier for the steering to work around.

Second I'm gonna build a trianglelated for our drag car.

Both require a lot of thought but remember they both do the exact same thing.

The difference is the panhard bar. That bar is all that hold your axle side to side.

It has limits as to how far it can rotate do to its mount.

No telling what failed first in our last set up but something let go. I'd bet the Panhard locked up causing the parallel links to bind. Then all hell broke loose, pinion sheared off, the axle twisted, the the four link bent and the drive shaft wanted to be in the car.
 
I have the RMS street Linx kit installed into my car.. it's a triangulated setup. I had intentions of driving on the street.
 
I have the RMS street Linx kit installed into my car.. it's a triangulated setup. I had intentions of driving on the street.


Here's a pic of my Streetlynx setup. A breeze to install, adjustable coilovers and a rear sway. Check the second pic for how well this setup tucks up into the car even with rear exiting exhaust.


DSCN4826.JPG


DSCN5187.JPG
DSCN4825.JPG
 
Nice setup..looks simple enough to fab up
 
If you are going to drive it hard like road race or Auto X, triangulated is the way to go. If you are drag racing, parallel works great (lots of adjustability). If you are just driving it on the street, leaf springs will get it done with a good sway bar and shocks.
 
Ty you just answered all my questions and some.
 
Welcome. Of course like anything there are a lot of varied opinions on this, but if you step back and look at it objectively and factor in what the car will be used for, or better said what you want out of the suspension, I stand by my statement. Of course the best is IRS but that is opening a whole other can of worms :)
 
I'm building both, first I'm building a parallel for our shop truck, because that's easier for the steering to work around.

Second I'm gonna build a trianglelated for our drag car.

Both require a lot of thought but remember they both do the exact same thing.

The difference is the panhard bar. That bar is all that hold your axle side to side.

It has limits as to how far it can rotate do to its mount.

No telling what failed first in our last set up but something let go. I'd bet the Panhard locked up causing the parallel links to bind. Then all hell broke loose, pinion sheared off, the axle twisted, the the four link bent and the drive shaft wanted to be in the car.
I wondered about the limits with the panhard bar too. Thanks for the info. Sounds like triangulated is the way to go

Wow! Carnage is always ugly.
 
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