67 Dart Brake Lights
regarding brakes on all the time...
1. if you lift up on the brake pedal do they go out? IE pull the brake pedal up and toward the rear of the vehicle.
if so it is an adjustment issue.
2. if not disconnect the connector from the brake switch, do they go out?
if so bad switch or switch is stuck closed.
download the factory service manual from MyMopar.com it has a wiring diagram and will be very helpful.
Regarding fuel gauge...
1. Does the temp gauge work?
if so the instrument cluster voltage regulator (IRV) is working.
if not the IRV may be missing or bad
1a. with the key on check for a voltage ~5-6V on the back of the fuel gauge screws.
if no voltage then the gauge circuit board is may be bad
if there is voltage continue
2. find the connector that goes to the fuel sending unit, single connector on sender. with key on and someone watching the gauge short the single connector to a known good ground for a few seconds.
If the gauge starts to rise it is a sender or sender ground issue.
If it does not move then it could be a broken / disconnected wire between the sender and gauge.
3. with the key off and the sender wire grounded check for a ground on the back of the fuel gauge screws.
if no ground then it could be a broken / disconnected wire between the sender and gauge.
if there is a ground then the gauge is bad or there is no voltage to the gauge
If you have a bad sender and it is the OE sender DO NOT toss it. look to have it rebuilt. even if it is more expensive you will be MUCH happier with the results. Aftermarket senders are not very compatible
regarding brakes on all the time...
not a grounding issue if they are on all the time. the bulb is grounded at the bulb and the power is supplied via the brake light switch
1. if you lift up on the brake pedal do they go out? IE pull the brake pedal up and toward the rear of the vehicle.
if so it is an adjustment issue.
2. if not disconnect the connector from the brake switch, do they go out?
if so bad switch or switch is stuck closed.
download the factory service manual from MyMopar.com it has a wiring diagram and will be very helpful.
Regarding fuel gauge...
1. Does the temp gauge work?
if so the instrument cluster voltage regulator (IRV) is working.
if not the IRV may be missing or bad
1a. with the key on check for a voltage ~5-6V on the back of the fuel gauge screws.
if no voltage then the gauge circuit board is may be bad
if there is voltage continue
2. find the connector that goes to the fuel sending unit, single connector on sender. with key on and someone watching the gauge short the single connector to a known good ground for a few seconds.
If the gauge starts to rise it is a sender or sender ground issue.
If it does not move then it could be a broken / disconnected wire between the sender and gauge.
3. with the key off and the sender wire grounded check for a ground on the back of the fuel gauge screws.
if no ground then it could be a broken / disconnected wire between the sender and gauge.
if there is a ground then the gauge is bad or there is no voltage to the gauge
If you have a bad sender and it is the OE sender DO NOT toss it. look to have it rebuilt. even if it is more expensive you will be MUCH happier with the results. Aftermarket senders are not very compatible
