Help with upper ball joint stuck in kuckle...

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StevieMac

StevieMac

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I have a 70 Duster that I just bought and I knew that it needed somethings done to the front suspension to drive it safely.....

So I am putting new tie rod ends, QA1 upper control arms, bump stops, etc.... Got one side torn appart, was using a pickle fork to remove the ends and upper ball joint, but the upper ball joint is stuck in the knuckle. No matter what I do, it will not apparently come apart. Yes, I searched hear and on Google for possible solutions, but I figured soneoso here has had the same problem as I. Short of using a BFH or cutting it, any suggestions to get it out?


Thanks!

IMG_20181111_164557.jpg
 
Heat may help. I first used a pickle fork and did one side. Probably did more damage but it got it out. Then i bought a harbor freight dedicated ball joint remover and it was like butter to remove and no damage. I am sure there are better ones at other stores.

3/4 in. Ball Joint Separator
 
They make a separator that is like a turn buckle right hand threads on one side left hand threads on the other and it goes on top of the lower ball joint and pushes on the upper stud when you turn the center, Do not heat front end parts ever! This has a recess on both ends that go over the studs so it wont slip off, just start turning and it will pop right out.

Kent-Moore-J-33436-Corvette-Ball-Joint-Separator-Remover.jpg
 
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Hello StevieMac.
I have had success using two hammers.
One held tight to the knuckle and then use the other to strike the opposite side of the knuckle with the other hammer.
I believe its called "ringing".
I use two hammers like this
Project Pro 2lb Fiberglass Handle Sledge Hammer
You can also warm up the knuckle a little. NOTE: if you make it to hot then hit it you will damage it, also do not "heat" it just warm.
Use caution not to beat up the knuckle.
An old timer taught me this trick, he said this is how they get the brass prop off a steel shaft on a boat thus the term "ringing".
Hope this helps
keep us updated !!
happy Mopar :)
Arron.
 
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Often the pickle forks bottom out or are too big. I've put two back to back with success - one is mostly stationary, just takes up space so the other one does not bottom out.
 
I usually just whack the knuckle with a bfh,right beside stud. Sometimes it takes the fork and a couple stiff cracks with a hammer.
 
Tooljunkie said:
I usually just whack the knuckle with a bfh,right beside stud. Sometimes it takes the fork and a couple stiff cracks with a hammer.
Click to expand...
This
Yep. Wedge the fork in there to put it under tension and whack it on the side.
 
Been meaning to get one of those.
 
Next time jack the car up, loosen the upper ball joint nut almost all the way and then whack it with a bfh in the underside near ball joint. The torsion ball helps you that way.. then you can lower the car or put a jack under the lower arm to keep it from launching down on ya when you take the upper ball joint nut all the way off and the 2 bolts.
 
Are you keeping those gnarly looking 9" drum spindles?

I wouldn't...
 
Stay away from heating the ball joint with a torch....once you witness one explode you will think differently before heat parts.
 
StevieMac said:
Was thinking of converting to wilwood disc setup, but they use the current spindles. Not sure where to find new ones at a good price
Click to expand...

There's no way I'd use 9" spindles as the basis for improving my suspension or braking. They weren't a great design and had lower ball joint failure issues right from the get-go.
 
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