318 vs 360 Rebuild...

Johnny Mac said

2200 would be fine. Getting one specifically made for the cam specs and your vehicle is the trick. I have several contacts for converters at performance automatic, and ati.

The converter literally pulls off with a yank in 2 seconds if the engine is out.

You have alot of chefs in the kitchen on the ignition stuff. But for my 2 cents. The OEM type box isn't my favorite. I would go cdi box, or ready to run distributor. If you are "upgrading" your ignition., then still utilizing a mopar box that has the fail point of a ballast resistor isn't much of an upgrade. Imo of course

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Yeah, that's what I was thinkin', the thing would fall off if you jacked the back end up high enough, lol? Putting it on might take a min or so I guess.

Can you give me a 101 on Electronic Ignition? I don't need a long detailed explanation, just the jist of it will do. I understand the higher the voltage the hotter the spark, will that mean I need different plugs? And the vacc/mech advance needs to be synchronized with the acceleration of the motor, but what is the difference between the various control boxes, what are the options for the modules, and do I need a ballast if I have like a CDI box? Is the CDI box the control module or the coil box? (Showing my ignorance here) Would it take re-wiring the ignition to upgrade the voltage to 50-60,000 volts, or would the OEM ignition wires work? Like the ones between the solenoid, the key, the coil, the control module, and the dist? That is the kind of stuff I have never had the opportunity to learn. I guess now's the time : )

Whatever Dist I end up getting, I would like HaliFaxHops to work on the advance for it. Even if I mail him a brand new one and have him re-work it, that would be fine. He sold me a dist a while back that really helped my engine's output. And the only thing he did was correct the advance!