318 vs 360 Rebuild...

Yeah, that's what I was thinkin', the thing would fall off if you jacked the back end up high enough, lol? Putting it on might take a min or so I guess.

Can you give me a 101 on Electronic Ignition? I don't need a long detailed explanation, just the jist of it will do. I understand the higher the voltage the hotter the spark, will that mean I need different plugs? And the vacc/mech advance needs to be synchronized with the acceleration of the motor, but what is the difference between the various control boxes, what are the options for the modules, and do I need a ballast if I have like a CDI box? Is the CDI box the control module or the coil box? (Showing my ignorance here) Would it take re-wiring the ignition to upgrade the voltage to 50-60,000 volts, or would the OEM ignition wires work? Like the ones between the solenoid, the key, the coil, the control module, and the dist? That is the kind of stuff I have never had the opportunity to learn. I guess now's the time : )

Whatever Dist I end up getting, I would like HaliFaxHops to work on the advance for it. Even if I mail him a brand new one and have him re-work it, that would be fine. He sold me a dist a while back that really helped my engine's output. And the only thing he did was correct the advance!
There are many versions of electronic ignition. The OEM type chrysler version with a ballast resistor and an orange or chrome or blue, factory type "control box" is not the most reliable, or the most efficient system out there. I toss it out on every mopar I have had at the first sign of trouble. Now this is holy war territory on a mopar site, but its a 40 year old ignition system, electronic or not, its antiquated. The ballast resistor is also a fail point.

Enter aftermarket options for electronic ignition. You add more spark, eliminate the ballast resistor, and more or less, create a stand alone system for the engine that is nearly independent of the factory wiring (other than a 12v power wire) you eliminate the ballast ( or ignore its existance on the car) as well as the original mopar "box".

The above can be as simple as an hei module equipped distributor.
READY TO RUN DISTRIBUTOR | MOPAR SB 273-360 | V8 ENGINE | BLACK CAP


A ready to run distributor with a circuit chip that does not require an ignition box.
PRO SERIES READY TO RUN DISTRIBUTOR | MOPAR SB 273-360 | V8 ENGINE | BLACK CAP

Or, you get the best of both worlds with a high output cdi box (with neat features like multi-spark, starter assist, and rev limit) in combination with a "2 wire" distributor. (Meaning one that wont self sustain, so it needs a box) typically the best option for this is a billet type, so the advance is fully adjustable. As you mentioned.
PRO SERIES 2 WIRE DISTRIBUTOR | MOPAR SB 273-360 | V8 ENGINE | BLACK CAP

IGNITION BOX | DIGITAL W/ REV LIMITER | BLACK

----
again, throwing a stock box back in, with an OE type distributor will work, but there are just alot better options 40 years later