Brake pedal travel

No, but something is still wrong
Does the pedal come up higher with multiple pumps?
Does the pedal get hard? It has to get hard.
Does it get hard then the pedal slowly drops? This is bad, get a different MC.
Have you adjusted the rear drum brakes?
What are the disc brakes off?

You could have a hydraulic issue, a mechanical issue, or a pedal-ratio issue, or a plumbing issue.
The factory pedal ratios are all the same AFAIK.
The rearmost reservoir on MOPAR systems gets plumbed to the FRONT calipers. The following diagnostic pertains to Mopar systems, plumbed as above.
Do determine the hydraulic versus mechanical , I recommend to remove the rear brakes and C-clamp the rear wheel cylinders into their bores, then check for a high hard pedal. If not found then remove the front calipers and C-clamp the pistons into their bores and retest. If the pedal is still not high and hard, and feels spongy, then either A)you have air in the lines :( and you know what to do; or B) the flex hoses are expanding/contracting in loc-step with the stroking; check them out first.
But if the pedal is now high and hard then the hydraulics are fine. So;
go to the back and reassemble everything and adjust the brakes up hard until the drums will not turn, then retest the pedal. Still not right? remove the drums, check them for round and if they have a ridge, get it cut off, then reassemble and retest the pedal.
Now high and hard? Ok ,Now you have isolated the issue to the recently installed front brake system.
You will have to install one side atta time and look for flex. Typically I find the problem is in the pads. They have to be dead flat. Take them out and place them face to face.The pad material needs to touch eachother from end to end, and the metal frames must be parallel from end to end. If they are wedge shaped as in worn at an angle then throw them away.If you assembled them with some type of silicon anti noise product, get rid of it. If the pads have an anti-rattle metal shim, set it aside for now.
But if they are flat and new, then prefit them to the disc. They must sit flat to the disc on both sides. If the disc has a perimeter ridge that prevents the pads from sitting flat, you will have to get rid of it. If the disc wobbles on the spindle, you will have to readjust the wheel-bearings.Finally check the pad anchor ways. They have to be smooth so the pads cannot hang up on them. With used parts, the ways often have to be repaired, having grooves pounded into them over thousands of miles.
Next if the calipers are retained with screw-in pins, then you will need to make sure that they are not bent, then screw them in, and make sure they seat parallel to eachother, and in the same plain..
Now remove the pads and set them aside. Remove the pins and assemble the caliper onto the bracket with the pins and test it's travel on the sliderpins. It should stroke fairly freely. You may have to lube the pins or the pin-bores or the O-rings, whatever system you have, with the special grease made for that.
Finally, blow it apart and final assembly it. Then back to the pedal. If now the pedal is high and hard, then repeat on the other side. If not, go watch the caliper as a helper works the pedal. You are looking for flex, excessive motion of the caliper. Do not proceed to the other side until you get the first side rectified. If you can't find it, then C-clamp the piston to the bottom and verify the pedal is still high and hard, indicating that the rears are still functioning correctly.
Then go look for flex, again. It may be that the caliper body itself is flexing. That would be highly unusual, and of course; BAD.
Keep hunting til you find and fix the flex. Then retest the pedal. When it finally gets high and hard...... then repeat on the other side.
The pedal must get hard and high.
When you finally get it, don't forget to back the rear adjusters off a few clicks, until the drums rotate with a bit of resistance.
Then roadtest it.
With a 1" bore MC,and NO booster, you should be able to have full stopping power with perhaps 1/3 pedal-travel.
If you have a booster; with the engine off, pump the pedal about 5 times to evacuate it, then hold the pedal down with just moderate pressure. Now start the engine and watch how far the pedal drops. About 1 inch would be normal. Add this amount to the 1/3 pedal travel. That should now be your total travel, namely 1/3 plus 1 inch. A bigger bore will finish higher and a smaller a little lower. But none should finish near the floor!!! I imagine 2/3s might be the max with a 15/16 MC AND a booster.