K-member drop details

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paulclark

paulclark

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I'm doing an engine swap on my 65 Barracuda, and I've been wanting to try the K-member drop method, so this is it! Have heard so many good recommendations about this method. Just getting underway and I have questions about the details...

How do you disconnect the steering box? I assume the box stays mounted to the K-member, but does the steering shaft disconnect above the box and if so, how?

I'm changing control arms so I've disconnected the UCA from the body, and disconnected the tie rod ends at the spindles, disconnected the strut rods from the K-member. About to remove the T-bars. This will take everything off. But... if I were using the original control arms and brakes, what's the minimal disconnect needed to drop a K-member? Guessing less than what I did.

Otherwise it seems like a good plan, I'm using a lift plus a Harbor Freight hydraulic table to receive the K-member. This gives me enough clearance to crawl around under the car on hand and knees, and that's nice for working around.
 
You may have to "almost remove" the column, IE disconnect the column support and the flange at the floor, then just drive the pin out of the coupler at the box and work the coupler off the shaft

There is a couple of ways to handle suspension. You can pull the tie rod ends and separate the bottom ball joints. That will save some weight, and you won't have to bleed the brakes. Otherwise, separate the upper ball joints, disconnect the brake hoses and leave the hubs/ drums / spindles with the K

Don't forget you'll have to have room to get under there and access the rear trans mount SAFELY. I would not want to do that EG with the body hanging from a cherry picker, so jackstands? (I did a slant removal and a 318 removal on my 2 post hoist)

If you pulled the upper A arms off, you should not need to fiddle with the struts
 
Kind of scratching my head here. Sometimes more is less. Just pull it all. Easier to work on the bench.
 
I just dropped my motor and I separated the coupler from the steering box . Now I may have to pull the steering column up for the install to get everything lined back up
 
To answer your questions : yes , you must remove the T-bars , or at least , move them back . As was stated before , disconnect the steering at the coupler . I removed the front bumper and built a frame out of 2"x''''2" box tube with a d-ring to lift the front of car . REmoved the tranny mount , supported everything (k-frame,engine,trans) , remove the k-frame bolts , raise body off the K , either roll car back carefully or slide engine forward . Works GREAT !! BE CAREFUL ! Put my BB, 727 in the same way with my wife's help in 20 minutes and stress .
 
whitepunkonnitro said:
For just a simple engine swap, doing it this way adds a ton of unnecessary steps and complications.
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I used to say that but it saves pulling the hood which for me is a huge deal. (My health etc) and the tight rear gap adds a big chance of dinging up paint

You can hang the exhaust on it and especially with headers it saves aggravation.

With me, having the hoist makes all the difference
 
67Dart273 said:
I used to say that but it saves pulling the hood which for me is a huge deal. (My health etc) and the tight rear gap adds a big chance of dinging up paint

You can hang the exhaust on it and especially with headers it saves aggravation.

With me, having the hoist makes all the difference
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In over 40 years of dropping engines into Mopars, I have never once removed a hood.
The distance between the core support and fully opened hood is exactly enough to get a fully dressed engine through.
It's designed that way
 
whitepunkonnitro said:
In over 40 years of dropping engines into Mopars, I have never once removed a hood.
The distance between the core support and fully opened hood is exactly enough to get a fully dressed engine through.
It's designed that way
Click to expand...

That does not work well with transmission attached, and the one time I pulled the engine alone, I had to be VERY careful about the chain length to the 'picker. Yeh, it kinda works, but it is close
 
Great info. The part that has me puzzled still is this:

"You may have to "almost remove" the column, IE disconnect the column support and the flange at the floor, then just drive the pin out of the coupler at the box and work the coupler off the shaft"

I'm not clear on how the steering column/coupler come apart.
 
From underneath is the way to go. Install engine and transmission as an assembly, headers bolted to engine.
 
Here yah go

20160612_172023.jpg


20160612_172051.jpg
 
paulclark said:
Great info. The part that has me puzzled still is this:

"You may have to "almost remove" the column, IE disconnect the column support and the flange at the floor, then just drive the pin out of the coupler at the box and work the coupler off the shaft"

I'm not clear on how the steering column/coupler come apart.
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It's easy. There's a pin in the coupler crossways. Sometimes they are tight/ rusted. You need a good quality punch and a big *** hammer. Then the entire couple can be worked off the box splines
 
I'm never doing out the bottom again, even tho I built a cradle just for the job.
For me the hood is not even a hick-up. Ok let me rephrase that; it never WAS a hick-up: the last time I had the engine out was 2004, and I was only 51 at the time, lololololol. But I kinda think I'm at least as strong today as I was that year.
I always take the engine and trans out together. Cuz if the engine comes out, I'm going thru the trans rightaway too.
If I can't do it from the top without wrecking stuff, then I'll hire somebody who can..... do it without wrecking stuff,lol..
But just so you know, that engine and trans have been in and out so often, they practically jump in/out by themselves.
 
If it's a new combo, engine swap, etc, the bottom is the way to go.

Established motor in a running car? Either works, but I still prefer going out through the bottom because I typically work alone
 
All the photos are of later A Bodies....anyone have photos of remove or especially install on an early A Body?
 
65ChargerDart said:
All the photos are of later A Bodies....anyone have photos of remove or especially install on an early A Body?
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Hood on , big block out! doing it with a trans on is a challenge due to the angle it needs to go in, you need to get the front end up as far as your jackstands will allow because the tailshaft is pretty long. also a load leveler is very handy but robs 12" of lift. notice clearance of pan, like 1/2 inch above fender and 2" above rad support. valve cover is almost touching hood. Nail biter swinging it over fender....
i14534-jpg.jpg
 
pishta said:
Hood on , big block out! doing it with a trans on is a challenge due to the angle it needs to go in, you need to get the front end up as far as your jackstands will allow because the tailshaft is pretty long. also a load leveler is very handy but robs 12" of lift. notice clearance of pan, like 1/2 inch above fender and 2" above rad support. valve cover is almost touching hood. Nail biter swinging it over fender....
View attachment 1715252196
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The hood's too easy to remove for me to try that!
 
Ive done it alone and its not bad but just not needed here, no real benefit. Ive done a small block/904 together this way and I had one of those red butt-plugs in the trans tailshaft. I got the unit in and was lowering it and the plug touched the ground and pooped out drooling a quart of ATF onto the garage floor. No more: I take an Tylenol bottle and cut the top off, slide it in there and duct tape it so it wont go anywhere. load leveler was a real helper there, just make sure you grab it high or you'll run out of lift.
 
pishta said:
Ive done it alone and its not bad but just not needed here, no real benefit. Ive done a small block/904 together this way and I had one of those red butt-plugs in the trans tailshaft. I got the unit in and was lowering it and the plug touched the ground and pooped out drooling a quart of ATF onto the garage floor. No more: I take an Tylenol bottle and cut the top off, slide it in there and duct tape it so it wont go anywhere. load leveler was a real helper there, just make sure you grab it high or you'll run out of lift.
Click to expand...
I use an extra slip yoke, wire-tied to stay in there!
 
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