Mattax said

From this, it sounds like the choke and fast idle are opening too soon. As part of the rebuilding, did you set everything to the factory dry (bench) specs?
Affirmative
Then once its warm, did you try adjusting everything to spec the best you could?
I did but it won't get warm without stalling out. Then to start it it has to be pumping the gas, sometimes after some throttle feathering it will idle a bit. I tried pouring in gas from a bottle with a pin hole in it, but not major effect, still stalled out.
What do the spark plugs look like? Anything seriously out of line? If so, theres a clue.
A bit rich when I checked them a couple days ago.
Which side? If there is resistance in the black alternator feed or the blue ignition wire, any place before it gets to the ballast, that's bad. If its on the other side of the ballast, then that's normal.
Top Left and Bottom Left 10.6 volts ignition on car not running
top Right 10.6 volts
Bottom Right 6.something


I agree with Dana, not likely ignition, since it starts and runs, and the fact you can keep it running by opening the throttle and giving it some pump shot. If the ECU is failing warm, changing throttle position and fueling wouldn't likely help.

Have you checked base timing yet? Although honestly don't think thats the main issue.
I did and timed it about 5 degrees advanced. It's hard to get it up to temp and idling at 750 to time it.

Having said all that ^^^^^^, There are some altered systems we see in the photos. Maybe those all need to be fixed or disponnected and plugged.
for example:
The EGR with braid covered hose to radiator. Even if you keep EGR, usually its not open when the engine is cold, or any time at idle or wide open throttle. So plug its vac source for now.
Will do when vacuum caps show up in the mail. Tried with a hose plugged, but no difference. Really seems to be a temp point at which **** goes south. I think I heard the brake booster the last time I started it up and it died.

By the brake's vacuum booster it looks like there are two hoses with nothing attached to them.
Will do when vacuum caps show up in the mail.

'74 may have a spark delay module. I forget the details. OSAC What is OSAC? or something.
Look for any temperature controlled switch. Could be in the air cleaner. Could be in the intake manifold's coolant passage. If there is a vacuum source attached to one of these, and the equipment is no longer attached, there will be a vacu leak when the valve opens. Someplace there is/was a diagram of the vacuum hoses for most of this stuff. Mightbe in the owners manual, sometimes in the shop manual. Later vehicles had stickers in the engine compartment. I dont remember when they started doing that.

Click to expand...

Sorry I tried answering in line and it seems to have gotten hidden.
There are two sensors in the air cleaner. I plugged the lines they went to on the carb with a vacuum cap, thus why I was running out.

Thanks again for all of the help, I really appreciate it.

I'm packing for a trip and won't be able to work on it till Sunday night. Of course UPS brought my tank and I swapped it, but wasn't able to take it for a first drive. Bit of a bummer, as I'd really love to take it around the block, but a first world problem for sure.

Also I put in another voltage regulator to check and still got high readings on the ammeter at first start up, then smoothed out. The fuse blew twice that comes off the battery and goes to the back of the ammeter. Not sure who installed the fuse.

I also took two videos of it dying while hot.