looking for advice on oil

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ozmoparjoe

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Hi all, i would just like some advice regarding oil for a833 i'm having real trouble finding GL-4 oil here in Australia, the closest thing i can find to whats recommended is in the link and pic provided, was hoping i could find some 140 but this is it!
Any advice appreciated as always.
PRO GEAR GL-4 75W-90 | Penrite Oil

PROGL40025.png
 
Should work just fine. After I rebuilt my 833, I changed to a full synthetic Amsoil 75W-90 gear oil. Shifts now are better than when trans was new.
 
I was told to stay away from synthetic gear oil for my 69 Dart. They said, "it's too slippery for the synchros to work correctly""
Now I wondering if that is true?
 
This is a real problem for me, for whatever reason gl4 oil, especially mineral type is almost impossible to find.
Had gl5 in it and kept throwing it out the breather!
Maybe overfull i dont know.
 
I was told to stay away from synthetic gear oil for my 69 Dart. They said, "it's too slippery for the synchros to work correctly""
Now I wondering if that is true?
Haven't heard that one. I just got back from a cruise around the lake. Wasted a new Camaro SS. Shifted at 6000rpm without any issues.
 
Hi all, i would just like some advice regarding oil for a833 i'm having real trouble finding GL-4 oil here in Australia, the closest thing i can find to whats recommended is in the link and pic provided, was hoping i could find some 140 but this is it!
Any advice appreciated as always.
PRO GEAR GL-4 75W-90 | Penrite Oil

View attachment 1715251668

I was told to stay away from synthetic gear oil for my 69 Dart. They said, "it's too slippery for the synchros to work correctly""
Now I wondering if that is true?

I quoted both of you because you both have basically the same concerns.

Being a person that was in the trans business for years and especially with older manuals I will tell you what was done as accepted practice as far as lubes and syncros goes.
There is truth to the statement that synthetics can interfere with the intended function of syncro rings, but that fact is also open to preferences in the trans function under intended usage.

We would start with the basic recommended fluids, like 30wt motor oil for example.
If the trans was hard to shift or didn't like downshifting without what was called a crunch going into gear, we would swap it out for automatic trans fluid because it was thinner which aided in shifter movement ease and also let the syncros grab the next gear quicker and alleviate gear crunch on shifts.

Point is, it's actually a bit less important how thick or thin or synthetic the fluid used is as much as how the trans works for you, as it is more of a viscosity balance than a lube quality question.
These older transmissions would run just fine on beaver pelt oil and be fine as far as lube goes.

In cold area's 75/90 will feel like trying to shift through cold honey, and because of it's viscosity could even cause gear crunching in cold weather due to the syncros not being able to get down through the lube and stop the upcoming gear .
In the deserts or just plain hot weather that same fluid might work just fine, but I would hesitate to go as thin as ATF in hot climates.
 
Valvoline Synchromesh MTF works well in older transmissions. A tad spendy if it leaks, but good stuff.
 
I quoted both of you because you both have basically the same concerns.

Being a person that was in the trans business for years and especially with older manuals I will tell you what was done as accepted practice as far as lubes and syncros goes.
There is truth to the statement that synthetics can interfere with the intended function of syncro rings, but that fact is also open to preferences in the trans function under intended usage.

We would start with the basic recommended fluids, like 30wt motor oil for example.
If the trans was hard to shift or didn't like downshifting without what was called a crunch going into gear, we would swap it out for automatic trans fluid because it was thinner which aided in shifter movement ease and also let the syncros grab the next gear quicker and alleviate gear crunch on shifts.

Point is, it's actually a bit less important how thick or thin or synthetic the fluid used is as much as how the trans works for you, as it is more of a viscosity balance than a lube quality question.
These older transmissions would run just fine on beaver pelt oil and be fine as far as lube goes.

In cold area's 75/90 will feel like trying to shift through cold honey, and because of it's viscosity could even cause gear crunching in cold weather due to the syncros not being able to get down through the lube and stop the upcoming gear .
In the deserts or just plain hot weather that same fluid might work just fine, but I would hesitate to go as thin as ATF in hot climates.

I'm using Sta-Lube GL4 85w-90 sold by Brewers, but I'm not happy.
Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
I usually have a problem getting it in to 2nd when the trans has not warmed up. When it warms up it goes in to 2nd, but with a crunch. I have been thinking of trying a 50/50 mix of the Sta-Lube and ATF to see if that improves the 1-2 shift.
 
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