Hot Start Issue Choke stuck?
So what do you fellas think is the best order of attack?
I was gonna plug most of the vacuum hose connections, and start working backwards. I've tried adjusting timing several ways and never noticed a big difference with this issue.
Well timing is pretty critical. In neutral you can keep advancing timing and the rpm will increase. The mistake people make when doing this (I was one of these people) is thinking timing should continue to be increased since the engine seems to run faster with more advance. The short version is there's hardly any load on the engine in neutral so the engine will speed up with lean mixture and lots of advance. But its not generating enough torque and power to be efficient when shifted into gear.
To your first question, order of attack.
1. Same as you're thinking. Cap or plug every vacuum connection not needed for initial tuning. This does mean identifying each item and/or system. I'd suggest colored electric tape or masking tape and marker on the hoses to keep track of what you're undoing. No caps? a golf tee or similar in the hose coming from the vacuum source works fine.
Not needed for initial tuning.
a. OSAC
b. EGR
c. Warm air from stove. (If it is working, its not a problem. But with the aircleaner off, its not doing anything)
d. vacuum advance (unless it says otherwise in the FSM or the underhood sticker, initial timing is set without vac advance)
e. any vacuum resevoir for cruise control etc.
Needed.
a. PCV valve attached and working.
b. Air door on snorkel
if the air cleaner cover is on.
Optional.
Power brake booster. If you think its leaking, plug the line to it.
At some point you may want to borrow or buy a vacuum pump to test for leaks and trmperature control valve operations. But for now, hunting everything thing down and capping or plugging is all thats needed.
2. Check and clean spark plugs if fouled.
3. Reset timing
a. Look up the advance curve in the FSM. It will be in the back of the electrical section under ignition. Double the rpm and double the advance degrees. Add this to the base timing.*
b. Fire it up and after kicking it down to the normal fast idle, increase the advance 5* or so. Try to get it into the range based on (a)
4. Run the base idle screw in enough so the engine keeps running without having to keep pumping the pedal.
Then recheck timing at rpm, and readjust if its still lower than spec.
If its running on its own, even at 1000 or 1200 rpm, then see if the idle speed screw can be turned out slowing the engine a bit. Recheck timing.
Then see what happens turning idle mix screws in and out. Do they have any effect at all?
Keep repeating these steps to see if lowering the idle speed with the throttle position screw is possible.
I'm sure if I was there I'd being some other thi ngs too, such as checking the squirters depending on how things are going and what the eyes ears and nose suggest.
