Who runs this cam?

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SSG_Karg said:
Does anyone have experience with this cam in their smallblock? Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft; 1964 - 2003 Chrysler 273, 340, 360 1800 to 5800 Howards Cams 711451-08 | Howards Cams
What was the rest of your combo and did you like it? Thank you, drive through.

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That’s the cam I am running in my 70 Swinger 318. I looked in into comp cam that had close to same specs. The problem I had was the tech at comp was a asshole. Asked about the engine and I told him I didn’t build it as I bought the car running. When he asked what pistons I told him Stock 30 over replacements. Then he said not stock replacement as they are 30. He says he want brand and part number. Tried to explain all I wanted was a mild replacement cam with a decent pull down low to 5500 for stock rebuild that was 30 over. He decided to be an asshole. Told him to stick his cam up his ***. I called Howard’s to ask about that cam. They were extremely helpful and took the time to talk to me. Told him same engine specs and he said he felt it would be a perfect match. Now my engine is a 30 overbore, 9.5 to 1. Stock heads with aftermarket springs ( cam that was in it was quite a bit larger then Howard’s) 355 gear and 2500 stall converter. Very happy with this cam. Isles at 600 rpm with slight lope. Needs better heads and little more compression. When I degreed the cam it was right on the money matching the cam card. I recommend this cam for a mild build. Strongly recommend Howard’s cam
 
67cudafb said:
That’s the cam I am running in my 70 Swinger 318. I looked in into comp cam that had close to same specs. The problem I had was the tech at comp was a asshole. Asked about the engine and I told him I didn’t build it as I bought the car running. When he asked what pistons I told him Stock 30 over replacements. Then he said not stock replacement as they are 30. He says he want brand and part number. Tried to explain all I wanted was a mild replacement cam with a decent pull down low to 5500 for stock rebuild that was 30 over. He decided to be an asshole. Told him to stick his cam up his ***. I called Howard’s to ask about that cam. They were extremely helpful and took the time to talk to me. Told him same engine specs and he said he felt it would be a perfect match. Now my engine is a 30 overbore, 9.5 to 1. Stock heads with aftermarket springs ( cam that was in it was quite a bit larger then Howard’s) 355 gear and 2500 stall converter. Very happy with this cam. Isles at 600 rpm with slight lope. Needs better heads and little more compression. When I degreed the cam it was right on the money matching the cam card. I recommend this cam for a mild build. Strongly recommend Howard’s cam
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Well, that would certainly leave impressions on me too...one bad and one good LOL

FWIW, and just for your info, if the 9.5:1 SCR is the factory spec'd number, then it really would likely be in the upper 8's with the original early, pre-smog 318 pistons; the factory numbers were for , let's say, 'ideal' components. With most of the current aftermarket stock replacement pistons, which seem to be made around the lower compression smog-era pistons, you're likely down around 8 for SCR. So if it seems a bit 'soft on the low end of the RPM range, then that is likely the biggest difference.
 
Howards is my go to cam regardless of grind, I use them in all my builds both for myself and my customers. Good stuff, good guarantee, reasonable pricing, and with rare exception, more lift per degree of duration than any other. I've never had one lose a lobe. The one you have chosen has, for all practical purposes, the same duration as the stock Mopar automatic cam. It is not a barn burner. It has a faster ramp rate and about .060" more lift which is a small upgrade, and it has the 108 centerline which will improve engine output at the expense of idle quality and fuel economy as compared to the OEM 114* centerline. I'd call it a "first step" upgrade cam that won't kill an already poor stock compression ratio. As to installing it 4* advanced, yes that will improve the compression ratio a bit and increase low RPM performance a bit (at the expense of increased sensitivity to detonation, and loss of high RPM performance where the 340 is king), Don't forget that doing so opens the exhaust valve 4* earlier as well, and that makes the exhaust hotter and louder. I'd install it no more than 2* advanced to compensate for chain stretch, or straight up if a tensioner is being used. When a relatively mild cam such as this is used with any converter that makes any sense at all for a 340, even the stock 2700 Rpm ones, adjusting cam timing to increase low end torque makes no sense because output will begin to fade above 5500 Rpm right when it should be coming on strong.
 
67cudafb said:
That’s the cam I am running in my 70 Swinger 318. I looked in into comp cam that had close to same specs. The problem I had was the tech at comp was a asshole. Asked about the engine and I told him I didn’t build it as I bought the car running. When he asked what pistons I told him Stock 30 over replacements. Then he said not stock replacement as they are 30. He says he want brand and part number. Tried to explain all I wanted was a mild replacement cam with a decent pull down low to 5500 for stock rebuild that was 30 over. He decided to be an asshole. Told him to stick his cam up his ***. I called Howard’s to ask about that cam. They were extremely helpful and took the time to talk to me. Told him same engine specs and he said he felt it would be a perfect match. Now my engine is a 30 overbore, 9.5 to 1. Stock heads with aftermarket springs ( cam that was in it was quite a bit larger then Howard’s) 355 gear and 2500 stall converter. Very happy with this cam. Isles at 600 rpm with slight lope. Needs better heads and little more compression. When I degreed the cam it was right on the money matching the cam card. I recommend this cam for a mild build. Strongly recommend Howard’s cam
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Sounds like a good cam depending on what you can use or how many mods you want to do. It is a "mild build" but many of us are looking for a cam to put in a stock teen with a 4 barrel and maybe dual exhaust. No 3:55 gear or 2500 rpm converter.
 
SSG_Karg said:
You guys and your silly converters. Only 4 speeds in my stable.

Pistons are el cheapo cast replacements about a country mile down in the hole. Heads are 2.02/1.60 factory Js. Gasket matched, 1.6 rockers. Compression has not been measured but all cylinders show at least 130 psi with current Comp 280H cam.
Plan is to shave heads .060, Mr. Gaskets 1128G, and maybe install the cam 4* advanced.
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Do that. But what gear agian?
It'll pull good.
 
SSG_Karg said:
You guys and your silly converters. Only 4 speeds in my stable.

Pistons are el cheapo cast replacements about a country mile down in the hole. Heads are 2.02/1.60 factory Js. Gasket matched, 1.6 rockers. Compression has not been measured but all cylinders show at least 130 psi with current Comp 280H cam.
Plan is to shave heads .060, Mr. Gaskets 1128G, and maybe install the cam 4* advanced.
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The 280H has specs of 280/280/110/60* overlap and 230*@.050
So why are you ditching it for a 267/267/108/51* overlap and 220@.050
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If you are getting 130psi now,
Then,this works out to about 8.8 Scr@900ft elevation, or 8.6@ 450ft.
Whatever;
the smaller cam is gonna pump it up to ~142psi with no other changes, right?

If your Scr is 8.6, let's just say, and say you are at 3.91 bore, then to make 8.6 will require a total chamber volume of 85.8cc. Ok say the 2.02 heads are 72cc, and you used the .028 gaskets last time at 6.3cc. This totals 78.3... leaving just 7.5cc for the deck. Assuming flat-tops and no eyebrows, this makes the deck-height .038 if you didn't machine them.
But typically the deck clearance is .057 which is 11.2cc. This might be called "down a country mile".
Redoing the math, one might expect the heads then to be; 85.8 less (11.2+6.3)=68.3cc a reasonable number for a blueprinted head.
Ok so say you cut .060 off those heads. How many ccs is that? I'll guess 10.8. And that leaves you with 68.3 less 10.8=57.5. Your new total chamber will then perhaps be 57.5+6.3+11.2=75.0..... and your new Scr at 9.7

With your ICA moving from 66* to 57.5*, your cranking cylinder pressure might then jump to 164psi and that ain't gonna work on pumpgas, in your combo.

The point is this; before you cut those heads, measure what you got and do the math. It may be that your compression tester was a lil optimistic.Of course if it was then all my math would be garbage..... cuz garbage in= garbage out.
 
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AJ/FormS said:
The 280H has specs of 280/280/110/60* overlap and 230*@.050
So why are you ditching it for a 267/267/108/51* overlap and 220@.050
_________________
If you are getting 130psi now,
Then,this works out to about 8.8 Scr@900ft elevation, or 8.6@ 450ft.
Whatever;
the smaller cam is gonna pump it up to ~142psi with no other changes, right?

If your Scr is 8.6, let's just say, and say you are at 3.91 bore, then to make 8.6 will require a total chamber volume of 85.8cc. Ok say the 2.02 heads are 72cc, and you used the .028 gaskets last time at 6.3cc. This totals 78.3... leaving just 7.5cc for the deck. Assuming flat-tops and no eyebrows, this makes the deck-height .038 if you didn't machine them.
But typically the deck clearance is .057 which is 11.2cc. This might be called "down a country mile".
Redoing the math, one might expect the heads then to be; 85.8 less (11.2+6.3)=68.3cc a reasonable number for a blueprinted head.
Ok so say you cut .060 off those heads. How many ccs is that? I'll guess 10.8. And that leaves you with 68.3 less 10.8=57.5. Your new total chamber will then perhaps be 57.5+6.3+11.2=75.0..... and your new Scr at 9.7

With your ICA moving from 66* to 57.5*, your cranking cylinder pressure might then jump to 164psi and that ain't gonna work on pumpgas, in your combo.

The point is this; before you cut those heads, measure what you got and do the math. It may be that your compression tester was a lil optimistic.Of course if it was then all my math would be garbage..... cuz garbage in= garbage out.
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Thanks AJ. My elevation is 1600’ and bore is 3.94” and pistons have the 4 eyebrows. I plan to run ethanol free pump 91. Right now it’s soft as baby **** down low so these changes should remedy that easily.
 
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