318 rebuild Bonehead mistakes/misses and questions

I have been very careful as I broke down and began to build up my stock(ish) 318 LA motor for my 65 Barracuda. All of my engine parts have been painted and mating surfaces cleaned, new FelPro gasket set standing by. I installed a double roller timing chain, found top dead center, lined up my timing chain and started the process of putting things back together....First order of business was the timing cover followed by the oil pan. Used a skim coat of black RTV above and below my cork oil pan gasket and also around my timing cover gasket. End rubber seals installed dry with RTV only on the corners, torqued to specs...so far so good. Everything went well and I walked away looking forward to the next steps. Came back into the shop the next day and my eyes were immediately drawn to the oil slinger sitting on a different work table, not on the car! I did some research here and discovered that I could live without it. I also remembered that I have been advised to drill a oil galley hole in a bolt just behind the timing chain. Just for good measure, I did not pre-lube the timing chain. I had to take things apart and start over. ****!
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Here are some images of the oil galley bolt and oil slinger installed and ready to go.
After scraping and grinding away nicely cured RTV and gasket material, I purchased a new set of gaskets and took the same approach as far as RTV and the gaskets. I kept reading about using or not using RTV in conjunction with the gaskets. Opinions are all over the place, so I just have to read and decide what to do. I did not really understand the concept of the RTV "acting as a lubricant" and causing problems.....I understand now!
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Torque specs call for 15 foot lbs on the oil pan.....I was very careful to tighten the bolts slowly and in a pattern around the pan. Torque wrench clicked as I made my last turns and to my horror, gaskets were broken on two corners! Silicone helped the gaskets slip out of place as I tightened things down. My takeaway is that the cork gaskets should be installed dry when I do this part for the third time....Any opinions?
Now comes the biggest bonehead move of this whole process....I was cleaning off some overspray on my block getting ready to install my heads using some fine grit emery paper. I noticed a bit of overspray down inside my cylinder wall and without thinking, I reached down inside and gave a couple quick passes with my emery paper. How could I be so dumb? What was once a perfectly smooth cylinder wall is now scratched. The oil pan is still off waiting for a new gasket to come in, so I can get to the bottom of the piston still. What should I do? I am sick about this mistake I made and I hope you guys can give me some good advice.
To put it sarcastically... to hell with "torquing to spec" any "cover"...be it pan, valve cover,front cover, 90* adapter ,trans pan...and even rocker shafts for that matter. The only thing torqued to spec are the mains, rods, heads, flywheel, clutch plate, cam bolt... the rest I do by"feel".

You over torqued it...pinched the gasket... kaput.
Next cork set you get, make sure its soft and flexible. Sometimes you end up with dried out stuff. Also.. you can rtv both sides, if you want, THIN BEAD though.. and mainly put some on the threads and corners. Typically the rtv is used only on the pan side and corners. Get all bolts in...evenly WITH A 1/4 DRIVE lightly snug down then tighten criss cross center to ends keeping an eye on the corks crush. Once it starts swelling out from around the bolts... it's too tight. Watch it just start to and stop.