Fitech issues
Instuctions talk about centering reluctor paddle. If I do that than technically I’m 22.5 deg off from the get go. The signal to fire is when the paddle crosses the reluctor. So if I’m in the middle of the 45 deg swing to the next post on the cap I’m 22.5 deg off. Correct? If you set your advance in the handheld this can compensate. I had to draw this on paper to make sense. I’m still questioning myself on if I’m correct.
I am running a tsp distributor the 50$ one that is not a direct msd clone. Has 2 wires. Spring and weights removed and it’s welded to lockout the advance.
My experience has been nothing like the YouTube videos with the one try one starts but most are not using timing control.
I’m curious where you guys set your base timing for a 5.9 magnum also.
I haven't set one of these up but there has to be a setting in there to compensate for the difference between rotor and reluctor. This would be the same idea if you were running a crank trigger and a distributor just to get rotor/ spark distribution.
In other words once you get EFI set up to compensate for wherever the reluctor is triggering, the rotor should be centered pretty much in the spark curve An example closer to home is the stock ignition, either electronic or points
On a stock dist. the reluctor/ points opening cam is tied mechanically to the rotor. So they "track" if they were ever correct
But the vacuum can moves the points/ pickup coil and the rotor does NOT track that action. So the rotor has to be in the right "area" so that no matter where the advance plate moves, the spark still has a path from the rotor to the cap. The extremes are retard and advance, with the rotor "corner to corner" at a cap contact. "Rotor phasing" is the popular modern term
I would NOT center the rotor at TDC. That is not where your timing "is." On even a mild engine you are looking at 10-15 BTC or more on up to whatever full advance is. I would point the rotor at more like 25--30 BTC. Remember that the distro only revolves 1/2 as far as the crank, so that say, 20" or so swing of advance at the crank (20+/- BTC to 40 BTC +/-) is only 10 degrees of rotor rotation.
To put this yet another way, if you are going to use a "full curve" to simulate street/ vacuum advance, I would center the rotor roughly on the center of that curve. If you let's say are going to run maybe 15 initial to 50 counting "vacuum" then I would point the rotor to say 32-33 or close as you can figure. You can measure and calculate off the balancer if it is not marked
Hope this gives you some ideas. You WILL have to set the rotor position first, because obviously rotating the distro after will affect whatever "the box" is trying to do.
I ran my Holley for as long as I did with a conventional distro and no EFI timing. I figured I had enough to worry about "til later." You might consider the same. You could set it up for no spark control and drop in a standard distro to get the thing going and fuel roughed into place
THIS?
https://fitechefi.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/QuickStartGuideFinalV5.pdf
