Body/paint floor questions

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4spdragtop

4spdragtop

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Hi all, can you take a look at seam on floorplan in pics. I'm not sure if this looks good/correct? It's a complete 1 piece AMD floor pan. Similar scenario with trunk pan.
I want to protect the underside, but have run out of $$ to pay shop to do this.
Pan still has AMD "coating" on it. Any ideas what I can do?
I have a mig welder but no space and very little welding skills lol, but am willing/wanting to learn.
Thanks
Steve

20181123_125501.jpg


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Does the AMD "coating" have to come off to prime/paint? I'm contemplating Linex on the bottom as well.
Thanks
 
IIRC, that seem is spot welded from the factory. Did it get plug welded from the other side? There's some gaps that are a little big, but otherwise it looks similar to factory. The EDP coating should be scuffed with Scotch Brite or sandpaper before undercoating or sealing.
 
Thanks for reply, I cant remember if its plug welded from top side. Should it be? Also, I would imagine seam sealer on both sides of seam?
I was worried that I may have to take it all down to bare metal before priming.
No more $$ to sink into it, so I gotta learn to finish it.(never welded or painted before)
Thanks again.
Demonic said:
IIRC, that seem is spot welded from the factory. Did it get plug welded from the other side? There's some gaps that are a little big, but otherwise it looks similar to factory. The EDP coating should be scuffed with Scotch Brite or sandpaper before undercoating or sealing.
Click to expand...
 
grind/clean the spot before you weld. mig weld/tig/stick - with sheet metal the process for sheet metal is about the same.
SPOT weld a very short spot.
LET IT COOL before returning to that spot.
You don't return to that spot 99.999% of the time though.
you simply move down a few inches or even better, diametrically opposed welding spots on the piece that you are attaching.
wire brush off your weld every time that you are done to remove any slag.
heat will warp metal so don't get greedy and try to a long run.
practice a few times on scrap to adjust the current/amps and the wire feed on mig. - I always ran too much current on my tig welds though the shape was perfect, I had a rainbow effect on the metal. practice running a line connecting two pieces of sheet metal- practice longer runs than you will really do on your car.
the machine has a duty cycle, it needs to 'rest'/cool-down whatever if you are really moving.
setting up your location to weld into something remotely comfortable will support good welds
if you ever get into tig welding, and touch the tig rod to the metal, CLEAN/GRIND the rod before starting again
Haynes has a good manual for this
 
I would lightly scuff and apply something on the interior floor boards. Bottom side Linux sounds good. I don't know if you need seam sealer on the bottom side.
 
Thanks, good info there! I've seen screws used instead of clamps for temporary holes until held with welds. In that case, when you remove screws after, I assume you fill/weld the screw holes in?
greymouser7 said:
grind/clean the spot before you weld. mig weld/tig/stick - with sheet metal the process for sheet metal is about the same.
SPOT weld a very short spot.
LET IT COOL before returning to that spot.
You don't return to that spot 99.999% of the time though.
you simply move down a few inches or even better, diametrically opposed welding spots on the piece that you are attaching.
wire brush off your weld every time that you are done to remove any slag.
heat will warp metal so don't get greedy and try to a long run.
practice a few times on scrap to adjust the current/amps and the wire feed on mig. - I always ran too much current on my tig welds though the shape was perfect, I had a rainbow effect on the metal. practice running a line connecting two pieces of sheet metal- practice longer runs than you will really do on your car.
the machine has a duty cycle, it needs to 'rest'/cool-down whatever if you are really moving.
setting up your location to weld into something remotely comfortable will support good welds
if you ever get into tig welding, and touch the tig rod to the metal, CLEAN/GRIND the rod before starting again
Haynes has a good manual for this
Click to expand...
 
I would fill the holes. If they were small enough, Por-15, or bedliner might close them enough and be good enough. Whatever you think won't eventually rub or wear back to exposed metal which will begin rusting.
 
As long as floorboard is welded in car some fashion perimeter around patch,
underside gap can be filled with glue/caulk and painted or undercoated.

D.
 
Thanks guys, all very good info.
The "plan" for the interior floor boards was to prime them(after scuffing) when I primed the inside firewall ect.
This is on my 69 vert. Top is off, dash is out, so I can(hopefully) stand in it and spray it(virgin at painting too lol)
Thanks again!
R4Sedan said:
I would lightly scuff and apply something on the interior floor boards. Bottom side Linux sounds good. I don't know if you need seam sealer on the bottom side.
Click to expand...
 
If you are on a strict budget, rustolium makes an enamel that seals rust in a quart can for like $7 that would work great on the interior side or inside a trunk. Enamel is not the best material, but it would last on the inside. i think the enamel is rust brown on the white labeled can
 
4spdragtop said:
Thanks for reply, I cant remember if its plug welded from top side. Should it be? Also, I would imagine seam sealer on both sides of seam?
I was worried that I may have to take it all down to bare metal before priming.
No more $$ to sink into it, so I gotta learn to finish it.(never welded or painted before)
Thanks again.
Click to expand...
Got some inside pics? Looks like some plug weld spots from underneath... Who did that welding? Might not need any more.
I wanted my floorpan repairs sealed from underneath too. Didn't trust seam sealer for exterior. Used Black Jack Neoprene Roofing caulk. Stuff sticks to anything. Cures flexible and while I wouldn't expect a fine finish, I have undercoated and painted over it with good results..
 
zkx14 said:
Got some inside pics? Looks like some plug weld spots from underneath... Who did that welding? Might not need any more.
I wanted my floorpan repairs sealed from underneath too. Didn't trust seam sealer for exterior. Used Black Jack Neoprene Roofing caulk. Stuff sticks to anything. Cures flexible and while I wouldn't expect a fine finish, I have undercoated and painted over it with good results..
Click to expand...
Danged! I thought I was the only one using Roof caulking. Actually the asphalt type. Works very well for me too.
I too vote for good tractor enamel (Rustoleum and other enamels) for the INSIDes of the floors. I personally would shoot the bottom with a DTM auto grade epoxy primer, and top coat with ??????
 
Thanks guys, yes a strict budget lol. The rustoleum you mention, is it HVLP, or brush on?
I've heard good about Amerlock2 it's by PPG, a 2 part epoxy.
Products

greymouser7 said:
If you are on a strict budget, rustolium makes an enamel that seals rust in a quart can for like $7 that would work great on the interior side or inside a trunk. Enamel is not the best material, but it would last on the inside. i think the enamel is rust brown on the white labeled can
Click to expand...

I dont have any inside pics yet, but should be able to get some in the next few days. So I'll see if there's top side welds
To me the seam looks too big on the bottom, but maybe I'm being too picky.
I'm surprised the paint stuck to the Black Jack, I'll chk for that stuff here.
The welding was done by a body shop
Thanks again guys.
zkx14 said:
Got some inside pics? Looks like some plug weld spots from underneath... Who did that welding? Might not need any more.
I wanted my floorpan repairs sealed from underneath too. Didn't trust seam sealer for exterior. Used Black Jack Neoprene Roofing caulk. Stuff sticks to anything. Cures flexible and while I wouldn't expect a fine finish, I have undercoated and painted over it with good results..
Click to expand...
 
With the DTM epoxy primer, doesnt it have to be applied to bare metal?
Plan for topcoat is Line x
Thanks
barbee6043 said:
Danged! I thought I was the only one using Roof caulking. Actually the asphalt type. Works very well for me too.
I too vote for good tractor enamel (Rustoleum and other enamels) for the INSIDes of the floors. I personally would shoot the bottom with a DTM auto grade epoxy primer, and top coat with ??????
Click to expand...
 
4spdragtop said:
With the DTM epoxy primer, doesnt it have to be applied to bare metal?
Plan for topcoat is Line x
Thanks
Click to expand...
There is a difference between DTM epoxy, an self etch which needs to go on bare metal. The DTM epoxy sticks to just about anything, good stuff. Besids using as a primer I can add reducer and se it as a sealer over my sanding primer prior topcoats. also Also, self etch can have acid base that will not be compatable to stuff like tractor enamel ( maybe).....
 
greymouser7 said:
If you are on a strict budget, rustolium makes an enamel that seals rust in a quart can for like $7 that would work great on the interior side or inside a trunk. Enamel is not the best material, but it would last on the inside. i think the enamel is rust brown on the white labeled can
Click to expand...
I agree that stuff works great. You can thin it and spray or roll it on.
 
Steve, I hadn't welding since H.S. so I picked up a Hobart Handler 140. When Northern Tool was running a sale. Re-taught myself how to weld. great little piece. I wouldn't be afraid of it.
 
I have used Amerilock paints and its extremely durable. It has very high solids and covers great. The down fall of using it on a car is that its not flexible at all and will crack. Not to mention, its very expensive as far as I know. We use it at work (petroleum storage plant) on tanks and pipelines.
I used it on the inside and bottom of my car and then went over it on the bottom with spray in bedliner. Its very unlikely this car will ever rust again. But like I said, its very hard and will crack or chip if something hits it hard.
You want something cheap, get some rustoleum rusty metal primer. You can thin it and spray and its much like the primer mopar used back in the day.
 
Thanks Larry, I have a mig welder dad bought for me 7-8 years ago. It has the capability for Argon or not. I've used it a few times. It's not the quality of a Hobart, but I'm sure will produce decent quality welds(hopefully) There is no body welding to do, just "tidying" up the underside.
R4Sedan said:
Steve, I hadn't welding since H.S. so I picked up a Hobart Handler 140. When Northern Tool was running a sale. Re-taught myself how to weld. great little piece. I wouldn't be afraid of it.
Click to expand...

Thanks MM74, I appreciate the feedback on the Amerlock2. It's available from Dulux paint store and $150 Cdn for a "kit". Which I believe is 2 1 gallon cans.
That's a few votes now for Rustoleum. This will never be a show car but hopefully not rust. Strict budget unfortunately. Probably have a "Mad Max" feel to it lol.
MoparMike1974 said:
I have used Amerilock paints and its extremely durable. It has very high solids and covers great. The down fall of using it on a car is that its not flexible at all and will crack. Not to mention, its very expensive as far as I know. We use it at work (petroleum storage plant) on tanks and pipelines.
I used it on the inside and bottom of my car and then went over it on the bottom with spray in bedliner. Its very unlikely this car will ever rust again. But like I said, its very hard and will crack or chip if something hits it hard.
You want something cheap, get some rustoleum rusty metal primer. You can thin it and spray and its much like the primer mopar used back in the day.
Click to expand...
 
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