What to do first?

1973 with an updated carb and intake from previous owner. I basically just drove the thing since I bought it and now it is running super rich and getting horrible mpgs so time to do some work. Things I have done is replace radiator and swap to the new style coil and computer for ignition.
Question is, in what order do I adjust carb, adjust valves, set timing? Thanks.

If all of a sudden its running rich you have a carb problem. My bet is the choke isn’t fully opening. I’d start there. IMHO

I would say check that you aren't leaking vacuum anywhere (including the gasket between the carb and intake, that one has tricked me more than once) and check the carb. 90% of my problems have been located in those two areas

Adjusting the carb would be last. Valves first.

Valves, timing, carb. Carb idle must be adjusted fully warm, and "jiggle" the settings until you "touch up" the mixture right at the idle speed you want

But none of that is likely the problem. You have likely developed dirt/ etc/ leaking needle seat/ sinking float in the carb

WHAT KIND of car? WHAT KIND of carburetor? WHAT is the engine? WHAT kind of transmission? We cannot give good advice based on a half assed question with no details.

RustyRatRod said:

WHAT KIND of car? WHAT KIND of carburetor? WHAT is the engine? WHAT kind of transmission? We cannot give good advice based on a half assed question with no details.

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So the type of engine, brand of carb, and type of transmission affects the order of adjustment?

justanotherkook said:

So the type of engine, brand of carb, and type of transmission affects the order of adjustment?

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Who's arguing order? All I asked for were the details of what we're giving advice for. Don't worry about it. I'm not going to pull teeth here.

justanotherkook said:

So the type of engine, brand of carb, and type of transmission affects the order of adjustment?

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Look, here might be what Rusty is tryin' to say, and it sure is what I'M thinkin'

First we get LOTS of people on here who won't give enough "or any" info. Hell we've had guys on here "my car won't run" to discover later that it's a GM A BODY!!

Let me give you an example, and I know you are in the "slant" forum but that doesn't stop some of em. Let's say EG you have a 70 something with a 318 and you asked this, AND you said that is what you have.

Someone might point out that the normal factory stock 318 does not HAVE adjustable valves, and maybe if some are noisy, it's actually because something is worn or loose......like cam lobes, bad lifters, worn pushrods or rockers

Things ain't always as simple as they seem...............

Guy posts "my car won't start when I twist the key" only to find out after 3 pages of posts THAT IT IS A SEVENTY FOUR and that is the year with the nonsense seat belt lockout and reset box.

........And just for drill the later (80?) slants were hydraulic, and had no adjustment, either

When you claim "rich", presumably you see black smoke from the exhaust and a loss of power. If lean, you will also lose power but the engine will miss and stutter. As mentioned, the most likely cause is the choke plate isn't opening. That is at the very top of the carb so easy to see and diagnose (true in all 1970's engines, even if not a slant or even a Mopar). 2nd most likely is that the float isn't closing to maintain the fuel level in the carburetor bowl. The excess overflows into the throat. That can be a problem will all carburetors.

BTW, what is "a computer for ignition"? The only one I have heard of that does just spark is MegaJolt from the megasquirt site.

1973 plymouth valiant. 225 Slant 6(aka slant 6 forum), with an auto trans. And by computer I am talking about the HEI upgrade(computer was the only word that came to mind when I was exhausted). Just because others have been ignorant about certain things does not mean others are as well. I am new to carburetors but not cars and not forums. As far as I know, all A-body, slant six engines had adjustable valves(that need to be adjusted from time to time from lobes and/or rocker arms wearing). And over time or from previous owners, everything needs to be checked. I ran a can of BGK cleaner through the tank and after I have a high idle and rich condition(gas smell and actual gas caught on a paper towel). No misses, full spark on all cylinders, Runs and shifts fine so I need to stop washing the off the cylinder walls with my gas and wasting my fuel mileage. Now I can fix almost everything in or about my car with the exception of welding and setting up gears in differentials. Thank you to the first few responses that actually read the question and answered it. I never asked for anyone to diagnose a problem, simply educate me on the proper order of what I need to adjust and check first. Sorry If I come off as snoody or rude but It was a simple question.