Summit Rollcage
I did the Jegs Moroso competition engineering 8 point roll bar in my 73 Duster and it fit extremely well especially the hoop. A lot of slowly cutting pieces down to fit. Don't want to cut to much to quick and be short. The kit comes with 8 six by six plates you weld to the floor underneath each one of the bars. Place the 8 plates over the frame rails on top of the floorboard and weld them down all the way around. Tack the main hoop in and then the others.
I know the pinch point your talking about and it wasn't be easy to weld at that angle and some of it didn't look so great up on the top there or where you can't really see and nobody really looks but it was welded.
I remember with all this welding in all these fish plates this thing isn't really going nowhere it is stuck inside the cab of the car. And with that said this takes you from 11-5 down to 10 seconds flat before it has to be completely certified. Nobody's really going to look at the roll cage that closely once it's painted and everything. Of course we are talking about our safety and stuff like that and trust me you it will work. When I had my roll bar in there I didn't use the door swing out because I thought that would make it weak. I thought what's the point this is for my safety. Also remember this if your car doesn't do under 14 seconds and you don't have to wear a helmet you do have to wear a helmet because you have a cage. For the street you do have that like pipe protector you get from Home Depot to wrap around it. By no means it's going to save your head in an accident but just bumping around in there on a daily basis I will save you from getting a good Bonk.
I took my cage out last winter because I was not interested in spending the money that made the car go consistently under 11-5. 12-5 suits me just fine. Also of course being a 73 I put the stock doors back on and it has girders in the doors and more reinforcements. I'm quite honestly if you're thinking about going below 10 seconds I wouldn't even be considering a steel roll bar. And you better have extremely Deep Pockets cuz everything goes up under 10 seconds.
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EXCEPT U CAN DRILL TWO HOLES , JUST FORWARD OF WHERE UR MAIN HOOP IS GOING TO SET, WITH EVERYTHING CUT AND FITTED, LOWER THE WHOLE MESS TAPED AND BRACED TOGETHER IN THE POSITIONS THAT IT WILL BE IN (KINDA HARD TO DO) , THEN U CAN WELD AROUND THE WHOLE THING, BEFORE RAISING IT UP AND SLIDING IT BACK INTO POSITION ON THE 6X6 PLATES.
U can work it where the plates are actually welded to the frame connectors if yours come thru the floor too.
Then just patch the extra holes in the floor , and finish welding the rest of the cage.
I finally added the removable parts to my drivers side door, (sure helps a 72 yr old guy that needs to work under the dash) !
It doesn`t change anything reinstalling it or taking it out with even the car jacked up on one side.
Now if I could just get the car to hook !!
As always, dis regard the caps !!
