Need power brakes!!

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Work hard play always

Work hard play always

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Seattle WA
As Leno would say “I live in a hilly area”

But seriously, just picked up my 71 Valaint. Got it running good. Been cruising.
It’s got manual, disk brakes front. Can I just throw in a power booster and master and get power brakes??

Slant 6. , auto. Pwr steering

25BD6FEB-0460-4628-AEA9-8AC34682E1A1.jpeg
 
Work hard play always said:
As Leno would say “I live in a hilly area”

But seriously, just picked up my 71 Valaint. Got it running good. Been cruising.
It’s got manual, disk brakes front. Can I just throw in a power booster and master and get power brakes??

Slant 6. , auto. Pwr steering

View attachment 1715260800
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Yes, adding a power booster is how you "get power brakes"

My question to you first though is, why do you need them?

The disk brakes on your car should stop it easily. If they don't, there's a good chance you have a problem with your braking system.

If all you're looking for is making the pedal easier to push, then yes, a power booster will help. Personally though, I prefer manual disks on these cars with a 15/16" master cylinder. Better pedal feel and brake modulation than with power brakes, and the pedal effort with the 15/16" master isn't bad at all.
 
I see you've just joined FABO. A word of advice to you, listen to 72bluNblu... guy knows his ****, and he's always willing to help a guy out with good advice.
Have you ever driven a car with manual brakes? i just get the feeling you're a little younger, and maybe never have. Manual brakes won't give you that 'breathe on the pedal and stop' feeling like newer cars.. but once you get past that feeling, they stop just as well.
 
The old lining may be glazed or poor quality. Is the pedal "hard?" Also, there's lots of related issues with rear drums. Lining can be glazed. The drums may have been turned too much and don't fit the shoes. Shoes may not be adjusted easily

My car is apart, but I have a Lincoln Versailles / Ford 9" factory rear with disk, and 73/74 Duster/ Demon front disk brakes. MANUAL. I have problems with my legs and cannot walk very far. Yet I could lock that thing up at freeway speed. It did require a "firm push."
 
I agree with all above, factory manual disc breaks are great and actually have pedal feel. If the car doesn't stop well you likely have other issues.
 
Seriously? In a slow, 6 cylinder light A body, you need power brakes? You got chicken legs, don't you?
 
RustyRatRod said:
Seriously? In a slow, 6 cylinder light A body, you need power brakes? You got chicken legs, don't you?
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'As Leno would say “I live in a hilly area” '. Take it easy on the guy, he just joined. He might not be ready for some of the interaction on here, lol. Works hard, a note: You need to have a thick skin on here, and realize when someone is pulling your chain :)
.. was a hilarious comment tho.. :)
 
RSie said:
'As Leno would say “I live in a hilly area” '. Take it easy on the guy, he just joined. He might not be ready for some of the interaction on here, lol. Works hard, a note: You need to have a thick skin on here, and realize when someone is pulling your chain :)
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I was just pokin fun at him. I got chicken legs myself, but I can stop a manual brake A body.
 
Welcome to the forum...Keep it simple, a booster will just add something to go wrong at the wrong time. The brake system you have now may just need to have a little TLC. Listen to the folks on this forum...if one person gives you bad advice, five people will chime in and will give you good advice. Nice car, darn near the same color as my 65 Barracuda.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I was just pokin fun at him. I got chicken legs myself, but I can stop a manual brake A body.
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I know that, but he might not. I wasn't ripping on you.. just wanted to let him know you were having a bit of fun :)
 
I live in a very hilly area I love the disc with no power on my demon. I did have a 65 belvedere a couple years ago though that didn't have power and at times it would scare me with brake fade, come to find out it was my pads as 67dart273 said.
 
Work Hard, this is what I would do: get the car up on jack stands in the front, pull both front tires. Look at the rotors to see if they are glazed, if so, take emery cloth and clean them up. Spin the rotors, and have someone step on the brake pedal.. watch to see if the calipers close right, if not, pull the calipers and clean where they slide with a wire wheel, a dab of axle grease on the slides when you put them back on. Check the seals on the pistons ..I'd replace them anyways while I was there. Check the rubber hoses.. if they are cracking, replace them.. old rubber hoses can do weird things to brakes. Follow the lines.. if they are rusty anywhere, replace them. If you aren't worried about looks, buy the bendable copper-mix ones and bend them to fit yourself..just make sure to secure them where the originals are. Oh, new bleeder valves for the calipers. Bleed them out. Make sure the brakes you have are working right before you jump into power brakes. Even if you do decide to you know the rest of the system will handle it.
I'm sure someone will jump in and add to and/or correct me, and that's a good thing :)
 
Lol,
You guys are awesome!

And yes, though young I have more experience in a full body shop/ full service mechanical shop as I have been working since 14. This is my 3rd a body and first Manuel brakes. (First mopar was a 340 dart 17 year old me sold cheap to pay bills )

Thanks for the reply’s. That’s why I asked. I have been cruising this thing all week and did not mind the brakes and was on the fence. Feels fine to me but everyone who drove it asked me what’s wrong with the brakes..

Think I’ll tune them a bit and see how it goes.

I m gonna paint this baby satin blue in two weeks.

Fun fact; only bought this car after getting a return call from Craigslist add after a night of a bit to much drinking. Apparently I found the add, called and struck a deal. Was surprised to find such a clean (and complete) car when I showed up. Bought on the spot.

Might name it el baracho (the drunk)
 
You know, it is possible that someone has changed the master out and put in one from a power brake car with a bigger diameter bore. This would result in a real hard pedal that requires extra leg effort. You could probably unbolt it to slide it forward enough to measure the piston bore with a pair of calipers without disconnecting the brake lines.
 
Work hard play always said:
Lol,
You guys are awesome!

And yes, though young I have more experience in a full body shop/ full service mechanical shop as I have been working since 14. This is my 3rd a body and first Manuel brakes. (First mopar was a 340 dart 17 year old me sold cheap to pay bills )

Thanks for the reply’s. That’s why I asked. I have been cruising this thing all week and did not mind the brakes and was on the fence. Feels fine to me but everyone who drove it asked me what’s wrong with the brakes..

Think I’ll tune them a bit and see how it goes.

I m gonna paint this baby satin blue in two weeks.

Fun fact; only bought this car after getting a return call from Craigslist add after a night of a bit to much drinking. Apparently I found the add, called and struck a deal. Was surprised to find such a clean (and complete) car when I showed up. Bought on the spot.

Might name it el baracho (the drunk)
Click to expand...

Now that right there is hilarious. El Borracho it has to be. Ever watched this?

Rio Bravo (1959) - IMDb

"Borrachon" is Dean Martins derogatory nickname. lol
 
To answer your original question: If you still want power brakes, get a 73-76 A body with power brakes. All of the parts from the booster, the brackets, linkage and master cylinder will be a bolt on swap.
 
Give a 7/8 master a try. Poor mans power brakes as Bill Reilly calls them.
 
Work hard play always said:
Lol,
You guys are awesome!

And yes, though young I have more experience in a full body shop/ full service mechanical shop as I have been working since 14. This is my 3rd a body and first Manuel brakes. (First mopar was a 340 dart 17 year old me sold cheap to pay bills )

Thanks for the reply’s. That’s why I asked. I have been cruising this thing all week and did not mind the brakes and was on the fence. Feels fine to me but everyone who drove it asked me what’s wrong with the brakes..

Think I’ll tune them a bit and see how it goes.

I m gonna paint this baby satin blue in two weeks.

Fun fact; only bought this car after getting a return call from Craigslist add after a night of a bit to much drinking. Apparently I found the add, called and struck a deal. Was surprised to find such a clean (and complete) car when I showed up. Bought on the spot.

Might name it el baracho (the drunk)
Click to expand...
This is hilarious! I must be doing something wrong... all of my drunk purchases turn out ... badly. I agree with Gregg Purcell, if you can find a donor parts car for cheap, that would be the way to go. Besides all the brake stuff, you'd get bigger ball joints, big bolt pattern rotors, etc. If you get a V8 donor you'd also get the V8 k-frame if you want to go that route. I'm in that process right now with my '69 Cuda, kind of nice having the whole k-frame out (from a '74 Dart donor) to replace bushings, clean and paint, etc... work on it while you can still drive the car, swap it all out on a weekend. You could also sell parts off it to offset the cost, and you have all the little parts that you'll need. If you want to go the cheaper easier way, I'm sure there are a lot of guys on here that have the power stuff to sell if you post in the parts wanted section.
Please post after paint pics!
 
RSie said:
This is hilarious! I must be doing something wrong... all of my drunk purchases turn out ... badly. I agree with Gregg Purcell, if you can find a donor parts car for cheap, that would be the way to go. Besides all the brake stuff, you'd get bigger ball joints, big bolt pattern rotors, etc. If you get a V8 donor you'd also get the V8 k-frame if you want to go that route. I'm in that process right now with my '69 Cuda, kind of nice having the whole k-frame out (from a '74 Dart donor) to replace bushings, clean and paint, etc... work on it while you can still drive the car, swap it all out on a weekend. You could also sell parts off it to offset the cost, and you have all the little parts that you'll need. If you want to go the cheaper easier way, I'm sure there are a lot of guys on here that have the power stuff to sell if you post in the parts wanted section.
Please post after paint pics!
Click to expand...
 
Sorry, miss post. Above

Update, holding on paint job, made the mistake of thinking I could put a new manifold gasket on my slant 6 in one evening... currently waiting for amazon to deliver my new studs with a heavy but not running car in my way.
 
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