Intake side..... not really porting, Just opening the pinch area about .030 around the pushrod, and removing the small hump for the valve cover bolt...
2019 summer race.... Jadaharabi vs 318willrun
- Thread starter 318willrun
- Start date
-
finished up the Dremel work today. All I did was remove the 1/2 ring in the intake bowl and put some relief in the pushrod pinch point. I didn't touch the exhaust side at all.
Next will be the clean up and reassembly with the new Hughes valve spring kit.
Next will be the clean up and reassembly with the new Hughes valve spring kit.
.
You need to sink the valves to really make power. I suggest a half an inch on the intake and three quarters of an inch on the exhaust .
I'm following your advice. I'm sinking them in the cylinder about .500 and holding them there for about 242*@050
Depends on which way you sink them, lol 3/4 on the exhaust only ? ha! ha! ha!
If he uses the compression enhancement method he doesn't need as much lift on the intake.
O ok, what ever you say engine master. lol or is that race master.
Cold, wintery, so I'm sitting here thinking of just how easy, or hard this is.....
So does science always win???
The answer is yes. If science is based off of facts, but too often it's mixed with assumptions left from unknown details (which is really not science then).
So this is really pretty easy. I mean selecting a E.T. and knowing what it takes to get there. Except the X factor, which is all the "unknowns" about a true street car.
example:
So, a car weighing 3400 lbs w/driver, per say, needs about 8.3 additional horse power to gain 1 mph. That's just a mere 41.5 hp gain to add 5 mph, for illustration. Easy enough if starting with a basically stock engine. Now a 5 mph addition at the big end is great, no matter what your previous speed was. For instance, my 318 Duster ran 94.8 mph. An additional 5 mph would be 99.8. That gives for a 13.22 E.T. "IF" the car 60 fts to "bracket car" expectations.
Now I could spit in the wind and add 50 hp to either car, adding about 6 mph. That 6 mph give the 360 Duster 12.60's potential, and the 318 Duster 13 flat potential...……… but getting the "X" factor figured out is the hardest. That science is just hard to obtain
So does science always win???
The answer is yes. If science is based off of facts, but too often it's mixed with assumptions left from unknown details (which is really not science then).So this is really pretty easy. I mean selecting a E.T. and knowing what it takes to get there. Except the X factor, which is all the "unknowns" about a true street car.
example:
So, a car weighing 3400 lbs w/driver, per say, needs about 8.3 additional horse power to gain 1 mph. That's just a mere 41.5 hp gain to add 5 mph, for illustration. Easy enough if starting with a basically stock engine. Now a 5 mph addition at the big end is great, no matter what your previous speed was. For instance, my 318 Duster ran 94.8 mph. An additional 5 mph would be 99.8. That gives for a 13.22 E.T. "IF" the car 60 fts to "bracket car" expectations.
Now I could spit in the wind and add 50 hp to either car, adding about 6 mph. That 6 mph give the 360 Duster 12.60's potential, and the 318 Duster 13 flat potential...……… but getting the "X" factor figured out is the hardest. That science is just hard to obtain
Last edited:
skrews
Well-Known Member
And the faster the car, the more hp every tenth takes.
.Cold, wintery, so I'm sitting here thinking of just how easy, or hard this is.....
So does science always win???
So this is really pretty easy. I mean selecting a E.T. and knowing what it takes to get there. Except the X factor, which is all the "unknowns" about a true street car.
example:
So, a car weighing 3400 lbs w/driver, per say, needs about 8.3 additional horse power to gain 1 mph. That's just a mere 41.5 hp gain to add 5 mph, for illustration. Easy enough if starting with a basically stock engine. Now a 5 mph addition at the big end is great, no matter what your previous speed was. For instance, my 318 Duster ran 94.8 mph. An additional 5 mph would be 99.8. That gives for a 13.22 E.T. "IF" the car 60 fts to "bracket car" expectations.
Now I could spit in the wind and add 50 hp to either car, adding about 6 mph. That 6 mph give the 360 Duster 12.60's potential, and the 318 Duster 13 flat potential...……… but getting the "X" factor figured out is the hardest. That science is just to hard to obtain
I will articulate my analytical mind and come up with a equation to calculate your precise horsepower at the rear wheels while I am passing you on the big end. That is of course after I spotted you two car lengths.
My mind is swirling with the visions of calculations to manipulate this equation.
HP=MPH/WIND SPEED×CAR WEIGHT(W/DRIVER+1/2 DINNER)÷ BY THE TORQUE OF A 5HP BRIGGS×110% OF THE ELECTRIC BILL FOR CHICAGO
My 12 volt 8000 watt, air diesel heater arrived. Only 8 days from Hong Kong to Peoria Illinois. They were 1/2 price on sale about 10 days ago.
I'm going to mount this on a steel milk crate and make a mobile emergency heater. A 5 gallon can of diesel and a hot boat battery and I'm good to go.
I'm going to mount this on a steel milk crate and make a mobile emergency heater. A 5 gallon can of diesel and a hot boat battery and I'm good to go.
j par
Well-hung Member
I think you need to just start doing something damn impressive to get up here in the polls I'm still ahead of you and I'm not even in the race...
j par
Well-hung Member
Yeah that scale of yours only works to a point for sure. You can't just do x amount of horsepower does x amount of speed because as you go faster it personifies itself.Cold, wintery, so I'm sitting here thinking of just how easy, or hard this is.....
So does science always win???
So this is really pretty easy. I mean selecting a E.T. and knowing what it takes to get there. Except the X factor, which is all the "unknowns" about a true street car.
example:
So, a car weighing 3400 lbs w/driver, per say, needs about 8.3 additional horse power to gain 1 mph. That's just a mere 41.5 hp gain to add 5 mph, for illustration. Easy enough if starting with a basically stock engine. Now a 5 mph addition at the big end is great, no matter what your previous speed was. For instance, my 318 Duster ran 94.8 mph. An additional 5 mph would be 99.8. That gives for a 13.22 E.T. "IF" the car 60 fts to "bracket car" expectations.
Now I could spit in the wind and add 50 hp to either car, adding about 6 mph. That 6 mph give the 360 Duster 12.60's potential, and the 318 Duster 13 flat potential...……… but getting the "X" factor figured out is the hardest. That science is just hard to obtain
.
Which is where my precise calculations come in.
take the 1320 ft in the 1/4 and divide it by the speed you ran will give you a good rule of thumb of what your car's potential E.T. should be. It works if the car is set up right. Go ahead, get a calculator and start the divisions, of what you and your friends run for et and mph and see how accurate it is. The tough part is, this assumes you've set your car up to 60 ft, not the easiest for street cars.
Last edited:
j par
Well-hung Member
No thank, you continue your bench racing as before....
Take a chapter from your own book
correct.
skrews
Well-Known Member
Winter time equals.
LOL...
Yeah, calculations just pass the winter. Almost as useful as a laptop dyno.
Keeps the mind occupied. But when I do hit the "=" button, my calculations print on a E.T. slip. To me that's always been the bottom line.
It's sure gonna be a lot of fun!
Finally got my 360 on the road today.
Yep it rolled so smooth you would never be able to tell what it has in it.
Are you pushing the rear mounted distributor engine down the street or to the dump. lol just kidding
Progress is always nice.
Progress is always nice.
-
