Too cold to start car

-
bisgator said:
Didn't see anyone suggesting putting a block heater in! I live in North Dakota, got to have one!
Click to expand...
Yes I think there was conversation about that. You need a working choke first. A engine heater helps cold engines start easier but isn't a substitution for a working choke. 30 weight oil is as thick as honey. Warm it up to 30° and it is more fluid. The engine starts faster and easier. You will still have issues without a choke.
 
Last edited:
toolmanmike said:
After the second set of pumps a double pumper Holley could have delivered 420 CC of fuel. That's 1 3/4 cups of fuel. It would probably be flooded by now and that's just the 35 CC pumps.
Click to expand...

This is incorrect. Holley "30cc pumps" are actually only 3cc's in volume. The "30" and "50" terminology refers to the volume displaced by the pump diaphragm with 10 complete strokes of the pump arm.

Carb Class: Giving The Bog The Boot - Holley Blog
 
DSC_0085.jpg


I think THIS is how to end this thread.... LOL!
 
phaelax
I made this video for you this morning. I'm not against chokes. I'm just trying to illustrate you have another problem than the choke. I suggest finding that issue.


 
It's about 50 degrees today and I started the car right up. Took a few tries to keep it running but it turned over quite easily with just a few pumps, as it normally does when it's cold. I get that I still need a choke, but honestly I've driven the car for 4 years without one.

However, it idles rough and I can hear what sounds like a lot of subtle misfires when I get on the gas. So something definitely isn't right.
 
phaelax said:
I'm guessing most of us don't drive our cars much during the winter months, but occasionally I like to take mine out on a sunny day even if it's only 25 outside. Problem is, I just can't get my car to start when it's this cold. I tried for 20min yesterday before killing the battery and my jump box. Didn't try any starter fluid, didn't have any on hand. When it was warmer out, I don't have any issues. Yea I know, welcome to the world of carburetors.

So, I was just wondering if there's anything I can do to make my car a little easier to start when temps drop below freezing. Ok, I mean "reasonable" things, I don't want to put on an EFI system. I will mention that my carb has no choke. I bought a kit from holley but ended up having to replace the main body on the carb which the new one (from craigslist) turned out to be slightly different and the arm to the choke doesn't fit right.

Extra info:
'73 Duster 440, DB electric mini starter, msd coil.
Click to expand...
Hi, I have a 1973 Dodge d-200 pick up... with a manual choke that I installed... and in the winter I keep an oil pan heater stuck to the bottom of my oil pan for fantastic, easy starts... I face the handle part forward with the cord and the heater has really strong magnets that keep it on all winter. I pull the cord and plug forward, secure it with zip ties and keep an extension cord run out to my parking place. If it warms up, I leave it unplugged. They sell dip stick heaters, but not in the size I needed and the pan heater was only about $40 and is now on it's 3rd winter with no trouble. Maybe this will help if cold is the problem.... otherwise a battery minder to keep a full charge, but I don't need one.
 
You're not doing your car, and particularly your engine, any good by running and driving it with a carb that isn't working properly. If you don't have the tools or know-how to fix your carburetor, then I would suggest go and buy a new one with an electric choke and slap it on. Right outta the box is probably going to be a 400% improvement and you will wonder why you waited so long to do it! That's the best friendly advise I can give ya. Call Holley and give them your engine specs, as much as you can, as well as other info about your car's weight and gears and they will tell ya which one is best for your car.
I recently did the same for my '78 Dodge Van and it was some of the best money I spent.
-No more dicking around!
 
My current carb was setup for drag racing by the previous owner (or actually it was the guy before him). No choke, larger jets, and power valves plugged. About 2-3 years ago, the gasket around the metering block was leaking so that's when I rebuilt the whole thing and put it back to stock specs with the original jet size and power valves. I'm definitely no expert, but I watched plenty of videos and bought a few books on holley carbs. And it ran fine for the next year without a problem until my cam snapped and destroyed my entire engine.

A heater wouldn't work for me, my house has no outlets on the outside except for the one on my porch I put it. I'd have to run an extension cord halfway around the outside of my house or leave a side window open.
 
I know some will question this BUT I had a 426 max wedge, yes with the 2 AFB's, NO chokes. Coldest day that I started it back in MISSOURI< it was early one cold morning 10 above!!!
 
So I picked up a quick fuel 750 with an electric choke and vacuum secondaries. Starts up way easier and idles at a more consistent rpm. However, the damn thing leaks gas from just about every part on it! Like I've said, I'm not expert but I've disassembled and reassembled my holley carb before without leaks, so I'm not a complete idiot on how to simply install one. But either I've overlooked something simple or I've bought a poorly built carb that needs returned. It looks like gas leaks from around the float bowl cover, and it's not just a little drip. In less than a minute I'll have a large pool of gas collected in the crevasses of my intake.
 
phaelax said:
So I picked up a quick fuel 750 with an electric choke and vacuum secondaries. Starts up way easier and idles at a more consistent rpm. However, the damn thing leaks gas from just about every part on it! Like I've said, I'm not expert but I've disassembled and reassembled my holley carb before without leaks, so I'm not a complete idiot on how to simply install one. But either I've overlooked something simple or I've bought a poorly built carb that needs returned. It looks like gas leaks from around the float bowl cover, and it's not just a little drip. In less than a minute I'll have a large pool of gas collected in the crevasses of my intake.
Click to expand...
Don't run it. You'll light it on fire.
 
phaelax said:
So I picked up a quick fuel 750 with an electric choke and vacuum secondaries. Starts up way easier and idles at a more consistent rpm. However, the damn thing leaks gas from just about every part on it! Like I've said, I'm not expert but I've disassembled and reassembled my holley carb before without leaks, so I'm not a complete idiot on how to simply install one. But either I've overlooked something simple or I've bought a poorly built carb that needs returned. It looks like gas leaks from around the float bowl cover, and it's not just a little drip. In less than a minute I'll have a large pool of gas collected in the crevasses of my intake.
Click to expand...

Are ya sure it's not just leaking at the fitting where the fuel line goes into the side of it and running down the sides of the fuel bowl?
 
There's no cover on QF - its basically a Holley 4150 design.
Either
>the float needs to be set or reset - Holley used to recommend that before installing due to possible bending of the tabs on the float arm during shipping.
or
>There's dirt - machine chips hanging the valve up.
These above will be obvious from looking at the sight glass and whether its overflowing from vent and boosters.
Or
>Leaking past Bowl and block gaskets. This will continue to leak with engine off.
or
> leaking at float adjustment lock screw gasket. Top of bowl - will stop with engine off.
or
> leaking at inlet fittings. Will stop with engine off as soon as pressure in line drops to zero.

Dry it off. See which it is.
Place rags where they can dry safely.
 
My recollection is the QF uses a relatively hard gaskets. Works fine but the torque needs to be pretty much in the ballpark.

If it came with nylon gaskets for the inlet or float adjustment nut and lock screw, they can flow as they get over tightened. They also can flow with enough heat - then they are no longer tight. That wont be problem this time of year but can be in the summer if stuck in traffic. Try not to use the nylon ones for that reason.
 
It's not leaking from the dual feed line, anymore. It leaked from the gauge tap (the little hex screw) from not being tightened down, but the rest of that is fine now. The inlets on the carb came with nylon gaskets, I replaced those with the metal ones that were included with the fuel line.

The secondary bowl did look too high at first, so I adjusted that down. The float adjustments are tight, no leaks from there. The leak does stop with the engine off.

I'll try to find torque specs and double check them. If you say over tightening them can make it leak then I may have just made it worse when I tightened the one side down further after the initial leak was spotted. I need a smaller torque wrench, mine's like 2 ft long.


Don't run it. You'll light it on fire.
Click to expand...
It's just like diesel, it won't catch... right? (jk)
I didn't let it run for more than a few seconds at a time. Just enough for me to glance at it in hope of trying to determine the source of the gas. What I need is someone to start it while I'm under the hood.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top