disc brake wheel stud swedge tool
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72Dart6pack
Harder Better Faster Stronger.
A BFH works. 
A 5/8" hole saw will do the trick.
Used this on a set of front spindles with original drums that I needed to remove.
Used this on a set of front spindles with original drums that I needed to remove.
Paging Rusty, I think he posted info.
@RustyRatRod
@RustyRatRod
Yes, the 5/8 hole saw is the tool to use. Any Lowes will have one. Of course it needs to be a metal cutting hole saw. They work well.
If your asking about the 65-72 Kelsey Hayes, 4 piston caliper, disc brake system, you don't need to cut the studs, like you would need to do with DRUM brakes.
They just press out, separating the rotor, from the hub.
As another stated, a BFH works too, by putting the lug nut back onto the stud, flush with the threads, and whack away.
Done it a bazillion of times that way, in the old days when these brakes were still findable on donor cars, in the wrecking yards, with shot rotors on them, that you weren't going to pay for.
At home i have a press, so i just press out the old studs, then press in new studs.
Easy peasy.
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Mikes270dart
Well-Known Member
Copied from a thread by Charrlie S from 2017
The tool required for cutting the swedge on "A" body brake drums, is available from Goodson Tool. It is required to remove the swedge when removing the studs, to prevent ruinining the hub.
Their part number is ST-437 for 7/16 studs, and ST-500 for 1/2 studs. These tools are on closeout, at $44.10 for the ST 437
www.goodson.com
(800) 533-8010
The tool required for cutting the swedge on "A" body brake drums, is available from Goodson Tool. It is required to remove the swedge when removing the studs, to prevent ruinining the hub.
Their part number is ST-437 for 7/16 studs, and ST-500 for 1/2 studs. These tools are on closeout, at $44.10 for the ST 437
www.goodson.com
(800) 533-8010
That is where I got mine
I guess I didn’t clarify.
I have the studs removed already.
I’m not sure about the reinstall . Do the new studs need to be re swedged?
If so is there a tool to do it ?
Your working with Disc Brakes, correct?
No, you didn't clarify.
New studs are just pressed into the hub, and the new rotor, holding them together.
No need to do anything else.
Don't make a mountain out of a mole hill. Don't loose any sleep over it. Don't worry about it.
You evidentally got the old studs out without any problems, so your not gonna have any problems pressing in the new studs.
Perfect!
I can move forward then .
Thanks everyone for the info.
I really appreciate this forum .
66fs
You seem to like getting into an internet pissing contest with me from time to time, in other peoples postings.
Why is that?
If this member had "swedged" wheel studs on a 65-72 Kelsey Hayes disc brake rotor and hub, he wouldn't have gotten them out under the ram of a hydraulic press, or using a BFH in the removal process.
Then answer me this if you could?
How do you think he got them out, in removing the old rotor from the hub, if they were swedged?
Seems like he already performed the task, what his question was about, although a bit misleading, at first.
I'll bet everyone here, me included, thought he needed to cut the swedge off the studs, in REMOVAL of the shot rotor, in reality he thought there was a swedge tool in INSTALLATION of studs.
You may have run across a KH rotor assembly in your "career" doing mechanics, but that would have to been a rare anomaly for some reason or another, and not anywhere the norm for that braking system.
You seem to like getting into an internet pissing contest with me from time to time, in other peoples postings.
Why is that?
If this member had "swedged" wheel studs on a 65-72 Kelsey Hayes disc brake rotor and hub, he wouldn't have gotten them out under the ram of a hydraulic press, or using a BFH in the removal process.
Then answer me this if you could?
How do you think he got them out, in removing the old rotor from the hub, if they were swedged?
Seems like he already performed the task, what his question was about, although a bit misleading, at first.
I'll bet everyone here, me included, thought he needed to cut the swedge off the studs, in REMOVAL of the shot rotor, in reality he thought there was a swedge tool in INSTALLATION of studs.
You may have run across a KH rotor assembly in your "career" doing mechanics, but that would have to been a rare anomaly for some reason or another, and not anywhere the norm for that braking system.
The fact is, the only way they came from the factory was "swedged" studs. If the rotor has been replaced then there is no "swedge", and I would not add it either. It is just something to be aware of. The poor guy in Australia probably would preferred to cut the "swedge" and easily hammer or press the studs out of his original hubs. I grew up with these cars, and in the beginning rotors were not sold without the hubs and "swedged" studs. There are probably few hubs left original, but it is worth mentioning. There probably is a tool to "swedge them back, but like you, I don't see any advantage.
That is just plain incorrect, falsehood statement, that the "factory" KH brakes were swedged from the get go, day one.
I too have taken many original, never been replaced, rotor and hub assemblies apart in my "career" of mechanics in my lifetime.
Then explain to me how i never, ever, came across one that was swedged together in my lifetime, ("career") of doing brakes?
Been around the Mopars myself forever too, buying my first Mopar, 71 Cuda, factory ordered, back in the day.
Very true, back in the OLD days rotors for those Kelsey Hayes brakes were sold, rotor and hub assembly.
But that hasn't got anything to do with them being swedged together, what this guys thread is all about.
You and I will just have to disagree. You also disagree with the service manuals from that time. Even my "72" 340 Duster had swedged Rotors, so it is not just an early vs late thing.
Well then, post the page from that manual that you have stating the removal, and installation procedures for those wheel studs.
I have factory service manuals that go back to the late 1950's. Motors manuals, going back that far too, Chiltons manuals, Haynes manuals, specialized, Bendix, Wagner, KH, manuals, that don't say a darn thing about a swedged stud, on any of the rotors.
I would like you to tell me the manual, and page(s) from a manual that your talking about, so i can read it, and know, where your coming from.
Care to do that for me (us)?
Safe to say that you and me both weren't on the Kelsey Hayes brake assembly lines putting those things together in the 1960's, so who knows what they did, or didn't do back then.
As you already stated, back in the day, rotors and hubs were sold as a complete unit.
So back then there wasn't any reason to separate them from one another.
I checked an old manual or two of mine and there is just a sentence or two in removing a wheel stud.
Nothing special written at all in regards to removing a stud, so what's the problem?
None, at all.
Like i said in that 4 year old posting that you brought up from the dead, i NEVER ran across a BUDD, BENDIX, Kelsey Hayes, (Mopar, or Ford) Delco Morraine, (GM) disc brake set up with a swedged stud in them.
I think the law of averages in the past 35-40 + years, i would have, don't ya think?
I must have been a mighty fortunate professional mechanic, and enthusiast not having run across disc's like that in my employment.
DRUM brakes yes, DISCS, nope.
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Here's the original KH rotor/hub assembly from my 70K mile 72 Demon. These were removed 20+ years ago & stored.
I don't see any swedged studs. It looks like a press fit to me...
I don't see any swedged studs. It looks like a press fit to me...
Measure the stud barrel as shown in your pictures, then measure a new stud or I will. My 72 Duster only had 50K and were swedged, like all my original K-H rotor and hub assy's. Do you think Mopar only randomly Swedged studs? Or did they swedge them all like front drums? Why were rotors only sold through Chrysler as an rotor and hub assembly? Or did some shops swedge them for fun? I showed a pic of a swedged stud from a previous thread where someone swore there was no such thing... What a joke. I leave you guys to carry on your big hammer installations.
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Well, we can guess who disagreed with the posting of the pictures in the others members reply.
You danced around, and never answered my question to you, asking about what maintenance manual you have giving instructions how to remove a swedged wheel stud on a DISC BRAKE ROTOR.
Show me that, and i shut up, and go away, and then i say you could be right, and me wrong.
And your trying to say that every KH rotor and hub assembly YOU separated from one another, were swedged together.
And FYI.
Ma Mopar wasn't the only one that sold rotors and hub assemblies together back in the day.
Wagner, Bendix, Raybestos, all did the same, back in the day.
That's just the way they were manufactured, marketed, sold, by everyone in the old days.
It's just in the modern times, when rotors became available once again, that they were made without a hub, that you then had to install onto the old hub.
That's why you can't find Hubs anymore, in this day and age, as they were always scrapped with the shot rotor still attached together.
Years back when replacement rotors weren't available i purchased some NOS examples from ebay sellers, in original Wagner, and Bendix, boxes, in my rebuilding days of brake and suspension work.
And they were rotor and hub, so what have you got to say about that?
Also back in the day there was a brake shop here in Sacramento, named Yerby Brake, that was the largest in Northern California, at the time.
Had to go thru him at times for him to search the nation, thru all his contacts for rotors and rebuild kits, so i could rebuild a brake set up.
You danced around, and never answered my question to you, asking about what maintenance manual you have giving instructions how to remove a swedged wheel stud on a DISC BRAKE ROTOR.
Show me that, and i shut up, and go away, and then i say you could be right, and me wrong.
And your trying to say that every KH rotor and hub assembly YOU separated from one another, were swedged together.
And FYI.
Ma Mopar wasn't the only one that sold rotors and hub assemblies together back in the day.
Wagner, Bendix, Raybestos, all did the same, back in the day.
That's just the way they were manufactured, marketed, sold, by everyone in the old days.
It's just in the modern times, when rotors became available once again, that they were made without a hub, that you then had to install onto the old hub.
That's why you can't find Hubs anymore, in this day and age, as they were always scrapped with the shot rotor still attached together.
Years back when replacement rotors weren't available i purchased some NOS examples from ebay sellers, in original Wagner, and Bendix, boxes, in my rebuilding days of brake and suspension work.
And they were rotor and hub, so what have you got to say about that?
Also back in the day there was a brake shop here in Sacramento, named Yerby Brake, that was the largest in Northern California, at the time.
Had to go thru him at times for him to search the nation, thru all his contacts for rotors and rebuild kits, so i could rebuild a brake set up.
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Pretty much going to cut to the chase here. There is no procedure to cut the swedge on K-H disc and Hub assemblies. The whole hub, disc and studs assembly was to be replaced. That is why no disc was offered. I worked for Chrysler. I'm going to throw the BS flag, since I know I had the last 4 K-H Disc and Hub assemblies drilled from the rear to not risk damaging my original hubs. I merely offered this caution, when you had to call me a liar. Even after the poor guy in Australia ran into the same thing, you stood by your ignorance at all cost to you. Since you can not understand how the Disc and Hub assemblies could have been swedged together like the front drums from back in the day you denied the existance of the possibility of swedged studs on the K-H disc assemblies. It is irrelevant what you have seen or not.
For everybody else, the real way to tell if you have swedged studs in your K-H hub and disc assemblies is to simply measure the stud where it protrudes from the hub. If it measures larger than the stud through hole in the hub, .543 inch diameter, The stud is swedged and the swedge should be cut to make pressing out the stud easier.
The above pictures are the stud without swedge, notice the original chamfer.
For everybody else, the real way to tell if you have swedged studs in your K-H hub and disc assemblies is to simply measure the stud where it protrudes from the hub. If it measures larger than the stud through hole in the hub, .543 inch diameter, The stud is swedged and the swedge should be cut to make pressing out the stud easier.
The above pictures are the stud without swedge, notice the original chamfer.
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So what if you worked for Chrysler, and me working professionally at repair shops throughout my lifetime.
That hasn't got a damm thing to do with Kelsey Hayes disc brake rotors and hubs.
You weren't on a KH assembly line putting them together in the first place, now were you?
I can't figure out why your only one of maybe two people that have ever had to "unswedge" a KH, or any other manufacturer hub and rotor assembly.
In the future you should amend your replies to state, IF you ever run across a swedged rotor and hub, you will need to do this, and just not state they all are that way, and you just can't press them out, or whack them out with a BFH.
And you still haven't answered the question how i have gotten every one that i have done throughout the decades, have come apart with a BFH, or under the hydraulic ram on a press.
And I'll bet you a dollar to a rolling doughnut, that this original poster got his out with a BFH.
And probably 99% of everybody else doing this type of repair on their car, got rotors and hubs separated with a BFH, or a hydraulic press.
And how many enthusiasts, or repairman, out there have vernier calipers, or micrometers, in their inventory of tools to do any kind of measurement like that, in the first place?
All that i ever needed, used, were one and two inch micrometers.
Pretty much going to cut to the chase here. There is no procedure to cut the swedge on K-H disc and Hub assemblies.
Then why are you telling me, that I'm in disagreement with, "maintenance manuals" that you have stating the procedure in removing swedged wheel studs, when there is no such information written?
Now you write there is NO information written.
Well then, why don't you and me leave it up to any reader of of this thread to either whack them out with a BFH, or press them out with a hydraulic press, or get a swedge cutting tool.
And what's with this statement me, calling you a liar?
Then your doing the same to me, in me calling you out with your maintenance procedure, wouldn't you say?
That hasn't got a damm thing to do with Kelsey Hayes disc brake rotors and hubs.
You weren't on a KH assembly line putting them together in the first place, now were you?
I can't figure out why your only one of maybe two people that have ever had to "unswedge" a KH, or any other manufacturer hub and rotor assembly.
In the future you should amend your replies to state, IF you ever run across a swedged rotor and hub, you will need to do this, and just not state they all are that way, and you just can't press them out, or whack them out with a BFH.
And you still haven't answered the question how i have gotten every one that i have done throughout the decades, have come apart with a BFH, or under the hydraulic ram on a press.
And I'll bet you a dollar to a rolling doughnut, that this original poster got his out with a BFH.
And probably 99% of everybody else doing this type of repair on their car, got rotors and hubs separated with a BFH, or a hydraulic press.
And how many enthusiasts, or repairman, out there have vernier calipers, or micrometers, in their inventory of tools to do any kind of measurement like that, in the first place?
All that i ever needed, used, were one and two inch micrometers.
Pretty much going to cut to the chase here. There is no procedure to cut the swedge on K-H disc and Hub assemblies.
Then why are you telling me, that I'm in disagreement with, "maintenance manuals" that you have stating the procedure in removing swedged wheel studs, when there is no such information written?
Now you write there is NO information written.
Well then, why don't you and me leave it up to any reader of of this thread to either whack them out with a BFH, or press them out with a hydraulic press, or get a swedge cutting tool.
And what's with this statement me, calling you a liar?
Then your doing the same to me, in me calling you out with your maintenance procedure, wouldn't you say?
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