Post adjustable UCA install - are these correct

cudajames said

Again thank you for the help - my focus was on the balljoint and not the heims - I will work on those

Here is the last alignment - driver-.5 camber (pass - .6 camber, 7.2 (driver) and 7.0 (pass) caster, .30 (driver) and .27 (pass) toe with cross camber 0.1 camber, 0.2 caster and total toe .58 degree

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What is the planned use for the car? And how wide are the tires up front?

I ask because that’s a LOT of positive caster. I’ve run as much as +8 on my Duster, and have been stepping it down since then. I’ve run it at +7 and at +6, and at least for now have settled at +6.5* of caster. Even that 1/2 degree down from 7 makes a big difference.

With wide tires up front (I have 275’s) the additional caster is nice because it overrides the tendency of the wide tires to track ruts and things in the roads. But too much starts to add too much camber on turn in and you really start lifting the car on turn in and upsetting the weight balance. I’ve changed my thinking a little on the positive caster recently- I do still think it’s good to have more than what the stock parts usually allow, even more than the offset bushings usually allow (+3 ish typically) but once you get to 6* or more you really have to evaluate some of the consequences too. I think even for most street cars geared toward handling staying between +5 and +6* of caster is probably better, unless you’ve got 255 or wider tires up front and notice that rut tracking tendency.

As for the heim boots they’re a good idea, especially at the UCA. The UCA heims kind of sit in a pocket there and collect junk. I’ve run my strut rod heims unbooted for almost a decade and like 70k miles on my Challenger without issues, but the UCA heims seem to wear out a lot faster.