Edelbrock mt-5 for 318
- Thread starter Phil21502
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Do you mean TM-5 ? For most 318 builds, yes. Absolute low end torque killer. A stock 340/360 iron four barrel intake works better. An edelbrock LD-4B is a much better intake, as it is basically an LD-340 with 318 ports. For what most people get out of an LD4-B, you can usually find a used edelbrock performer rpm non air gap and be better off by a small margin over the other intakes. If you have to have a single plane, look on ebay for an iron marine 318 four barrel intake (there was one on there last night), or an edelbrock 318 street master. Having purchased a vehicle in the past with an over cammed 318 and a weiand X-Cellerator, I would stay far away from any 340/360 sized port single plane on any 318 that didn't have at least 4.88 or lower gears...
hemichuck
Well-Known Member
I’ve got several 318 marine intakes if you need one.
holley street dominators work pretty well on a 318's, and are reasonable. They have 318 ports.
Weiand Action Plus works really well on 318's also. In stock form or mildly built.
Weiand Action Plus works really well on 318's also. In stock form or mildly built.
hemichuck
Well-Known Member
Yeah, the Holley Street Dominators for small block is essentially a 273 HiPo intake in aluminum but with the bigger carb base. And the best part is they can be had relatively cheap. The Marine manifold is the same thing except cast iron. They made 2 versions of the Street Dominator and both worked very well.
Thanks for the heads up on the street dominator. I've never used one of the small block mopar ones but thought it looked like a reasonably good design compared to most of the other cavernous single plane designs. I've heard the action plus is good for milder builds but tends to have some mixture distribution problems from lower vacuum levels caused by long duration, large overlap cams, but it can be tuned out by staggering the jets.
I think a factory cast spreadbore intake is supposed to be a great intake on a 318. I would use that over a torker (tm-5) any day of the week.
I believe 318willrun did a test recently with the stock cast iron intake and a Weiand intake and the results were almost identical IIRC. Maybe someone can link it so it can be seen again.
I believe 318willrun did a test recently with the stock cast iron intake and a Weiand intake and the results were almost identical IIRC. Maybe someone can link it so it can be seen again.
Hey that’s great to know. I am in process of working a 1985 360 four truck intake to replace factory single plane two barrel iron intake. From what I have read, the factory iron intake is actually better than an edelbrock performer 318/360 manifold... the only thing I don’t like about them is they aren’t made of aluminum, most boat anchors are light in comparison!
Factory cast work great on all the small blocks. I've used them on 340's and 360's as well.
Only thing is, they are heavy.
I have been fairly lucky heating the aluminum about an inch away from steel nipples with a propane torch until the aluminum gets shiny (near melting point, so be careful at this point) and then pipe wrenching them out. I’ve always used brass plugs with leaded pipe dope in their place. (Retired waterworks operator hack, lol!) It takes heat to get those out too but the galvanic exchange isn’t nearly as bad.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Stainless steel allen key pipe plugs work great too. I use liquid teflon sealant on the threads.
I have access to an eddy streetmaster 318 from a buddy for free. Looks like a mini torker ll. Is this thing a low RPM torque killer? And if so, what could i use with it to get some of that back?
The plan is a mild build 1974 318 with 68 340 exhaust manifolds, maybe a set of 302 or swirl port heads, Melling RV cam. Eddy 600 4 bbl carb.
I have access to an eddy streetmaster 318 from a buddy for free. Looks like a mini torker ll. Is this thing a low RPM torque killer? And if so, what could i use with it to get some of that back?
The plan is a mild build 1974 318 with 68 340 exhaust manifolds, maybe a set of 302 or swirl port heads, Melling RV cam. Eddy 600 4 bbl carb.
I wish I could could find a streetmaster for free! Steve Dulcich of HRM claims that these are great manifolds for stock or mild street/towing type builds, with a strong off idle to 4,500 rpm power band. It would be great combination with a set of 302 swirl port heads and an off idle to 4800 rpm cam.
Care if I ask what it’s going into? A set of tri-y headers (preferably) or magnum exhaust manifolds (if it absolutely has to be iron) would really optimize this combination.
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moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
69 cuda notchback. 318, 3.73 geared 8.8 with locker, 42RH automatic, 68 hi po exhaust manifolds. I got the rear end, exhaust manifolds, and the V8. Still need to locate a trans out of a pickup. Plenty of em at my local boneyard, just got to go pull one. Keep in mind this will be going in the hands of a 17 year old kid. He is currently 6 and loves cars. I will set the 318 up for the eventual eddy 600 4bbl and streetmaster intake, but that wont go on the car until he is used to it. I have a 318 2bbl intake and carb it will get first.
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That sounds like an excellent plan for a fun street cruiser with good economy. With properly prepped 302 heads and an RV cam you should be able to run six to ten degrees of static ignition advance (vacuum gauge set to find sweet spot and limit mechanical advance for 30-32 degrees all the way in at cruise rpm in high gear. Limit vacuum advance to around 16- 19 degrees, 302’s tend to work well with 46-49 total at cruise, depending on cruise rpm. My personal experience fine tuning a friends very porky ramcharger with a well worn 87 B-250 van 318 with stock roller cam, 302 heads, eddy performer 318/360 intake and a Q-Jet ran best at 7 static, 30 degrees total all in at 2200 rpm on a constant diet of 87 octane junk gas. Admittedly, it wouldn’t have gotten by with that if it wasn’t down on compression. It was a bare budget leftover parts build and the engine had 147,000 well maintained miles on it when it came out of said 15 passenger wagon van.
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moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Cool. I researched the 302 castings a little bit. What years of 318 are they in? Lots of 80s junque in my local boneyard, i'd like to grab a pair.
Marcohotrod
Well-Known Member
the streetmaster 318 is a great intake. the tm5 is a tarantula-too much for a mild 318. I had a 500 afb on a 1968 318 with a streetmaster and 360 exhaust manifolds and outdragged a camaro with a 350 and headers
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
He is a fellow fabo member. We have helped one another out on a bunch of stuff. I recently hooked him up with a windshield glass connection i have, we got 3 new tinted A body windshields locally for $100 each. He is currently in the sandbox for next coupla months. I picked up his windshield and have it in my padded window glass rack safe and sound till he gets back.
I told him i was looking for a 4bbl intake for sonnys teener, he offered the streetmaster as a gift. One accessory stanchion is cracked from somebody prior to him over tightening a bolt. I have a TIG welder connection. I will get it prepped and welded up, then drill and helicoil it back up. I will be getting the intake when he comes back in march. I'm in no hurry.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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I have a small-port, cast-iron, spread-bore, intake on my winter 318 which is a freshened stock Low-Compression, 73 to 75 engine. I used a TQ and headers with duals, and it was a great winter engine. I have run it with both manual transmissions(several different ones), and the 998/2800TC, and with numerous rear gears; and is was a barrel of fun. I shimmed the valve springs to go 5500 without float on the factory cam.
Believe it or not, my second most favorite combo was hiway gears and a manual valve body. I would run it up to about 15/20 mph and stick in third gear(Drive), and floor it, on the way to 65mph. The TQ would open up and make the famous TQ-moan for a very,very, very long time, lol. With the 2800TC it was like the same rpm all the way. It reminded me a lot, of my 57 Belaire 283PG. Whaddahoot that combo was.
My first-favorite combo was the 3.09low overdrive box with a GVOD behind it, split shifted; and 4.30s. 65mph=1860 rpm. Moruvahoot, but a different kind of hoot; 4 gears to 65 mph with 1000rpm splits. That lil teener was really humming.
Believe it or not, my second most favorite combo was hiway gears and a manual valve body. I would run it up to about 15/20 mph and stick in third gear(Drive), and floor it, on the way to 65mph. The TQ would open up and make the famous TQ-moan for a very,very, very long time, lol. With the 2800TC it was like the same rpm all the way. It reminded me a lot, of my 57 Belaire 283PG. Whaddahoot that combo was.
My first-favorite combo was the 3.09low overdrive box with a GVOD behind it, split shifted; and 4.30s. 65mph=1860 rpm. Moruvahoot, but a different kind of hoot; 4 gears to 65 mph with 1000rpm splits. That lil teener was really humming.
All-par states that 318’s were high swirl from 1986 through 1991. I have read somewhere else that some of the late production 1985 roller cam 318s had 302 heads as a mid year change. They are prone to cracks between valve seats. Installation of hardened exhaust seats seems to be a pretty common repair. It.s not a bad idea during a valve job either because the factory seats are induction hardened after they are cut and are really just surface hardened. A significant cut will remove all the hardened material. There are several on this forum whose opinion I hold in high regard who say that more often than not the heads with cracks between the seats rarely leak and are still usable, cores should be pressure tested regardless.
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This^^^
It had taken me some time to figure this out on my 87 Ramcharger. The 302's definately like less initial timing than motors w/o them. My beast likes 6* initial, 36* mechanical and total of 58* all in with vacuum advance.
Wow! What is your set up as far as cam, compression, and what octane? What rpm is that much timing all in at? Are you running EGR? My present 10:1 zero deck 318 begins with 675 boat anchors tries to get seriously hot in a short time at anything over 50 degrees total cruise timing, but I do have an intake gasket vacuum leak that I have yet to deal with.
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