Does Your Hot Solder Drool and Cover Your Copper Wires Like Hot Butter?
You guys oughtta try soldering electronics with lead free solder. THAT was an interesting "learning curve." The "H Bridge" for our wheel chair drive modules are fed with no10 wire, and the motor leads are also no10. In something like your home hot water heater, a no10 circuit is nominally 30A rated
But on these chairs they can see ONE HUNDRED AMPS per motor for a few seconds if you "hammer" the joystick, or stall it on the test hill
The test hill is so steep I almost refuse to drive up it forwards except when being VERY careful and leaning WAY forwards. It gives me the jeebies.
The 48V chairs are worse yet LOL. They will "wheelie" from a dead stop
I have to use a great big "American beauty" iron on the buss bars to get the bars soldered to the PC board!!!! And again when soldering the no 10 battery or motor wires to the buss bars. That old girl (I call her "Betsy") has a tip about 3/8 or a bit larger in dia, 4 sided point. I believe it's 150W but that is belied by the size of the tip
The two sets of transistors (MOSFETS) along the far top and sides are the H bridge, there are 6 in each leg of the bridge. The round devices are toroid cores with Hall Effect devices for current sensing. One of each of the no 10 motor wires go through them. You can see the buss bars for the motors immediately away from them at top and sides
A completed module. You can see the white motor wires, on the right side you can see the blue so the white and blue drive one motor.
You can see "Betsy" on the far right. She's a biggun!!! For the record, I no longer need the notes/ paperwork. I've built these in my SLEEP!!! ( I think )
Underside, these are the no10 incoming power wires, either 28 or 48V. The outer bars are nearly 1/2" tall and fairly thick. The require a LOT of heat!!
Detail on two of the power wires. The big black resistor is the last component installed. You can just see two of the terminals poking through from the topside, of the motor buss bars. You can just see the white ink says "BB1" There are several per bar, so the entire bar has to be heated to "flow"
You guys oughtta try soldering electronics with lead free solder. THAT was an interesting "learning curve." The "H Bridge" for our wheel chair drive modules are fed with no10 wire, and the motor leads are also no10. In something like your home hot water heater, a no10 circuit is nominally 30A rated
But on these chairs they can see ONE HUNDRED AMPS per motor for a few seconds if you "hammer" the joystick, or stall it on the test hill
The test hill is so steep I almost refuse to drive up it forwards except when being VERY careful and leaning WAY forwards. It gives me the jeebies.
The 48V chairs are worse yet LOL. They will "wheelie" from a dead stop
I have to use a great big "American beauty" iron on the buss bars to get the bars soldered to the PC board!!!! And again when soldering the no 10 battery or motor wires to the buss bars. That old girl (I call her "Betsy") has a tip about 3/8 or a bit larger in dia, 4 sided point. I believe it's 150W but that is belied by the size of the tip
The two sets of transistors (MOSFETS) along the far top and sides are the H bridge, there are 6 in each leg of the bridge. The round devices are toroid cores with Hall Effect devices for current sensing. One of each of the no 10 motor wires go through them. You can see the buss bars for the motors immediately away from them at top and sides
A completed module. You can see the white motor wires, on the right side you can see the blue so the white and blue drive one motor.
You can see "Betsy" on the far right. She's a biggun!!! For the record, I no longer need the notes/ paperwork. I've built these in my SLEEP!!! ( I think )
Underside, these are the no10 incoming power wires, either 28 or 48V. The outer bars are nearly 1/2" tall and fairly thick. The require a LOT of heat!!
Detail on two of the power wires. The big black resistor is the last component installed. You can just see two of the terminals poking through from the topside, of the motor buss bars. You can just see the white ink says "BB1" There are several per bar, so the entire bar has to be heated to "flow"
